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Forum topic by papaG posted 1730 days ago 1231 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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papaG

5 posts in 1730 days


1730 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: router tablesaw question

For 1/4” finger joint construction, dado set or router?
Will be working mostly with poplar, some oak and some walnut.
Last week read an article that said dado sets, with the teeth set at a reverse angle, made cuts with much less tearing/chipping (like the Freud Pro Dado set) are there any other sets like this?
Thanks


7 replies so far

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scrappy

3505 posts in 2062 days


#1 posted 1729 days ago

I made a router table and made a finger joint jig for it. Very simple design and easy build. Used it to cut pieces small enough to make a bracelt.

Here are the links.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/18322

http://www.woodworkingchannel.com/dolphin/videgovideolibrary.php

On the Woodworking Channel, just go into the router workshop and watch the video for making a desk set. He explains his jigs very well.

Hope this helps.

Scrappy

-- Scrap Wood's the best...the projects are smaller, and so is the mess!

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papaG

5 posts in 1730 days


#2 posted 1729 days ago

Thanks Scrappy. What little I have worked with the router, it seemed to splinter about the same as the dado did. My daughter bought the Rockler table saw jig for making box joints for me as a birthday gift. It gave me about the same results and seem to be mush faster. Thank you for the video link. I am about half way through them, but it is 2:15 AM so best warm the girls feet now. I don’t dare show her that bracelet you made, I’ll never get any boxes finished until she has one of those. that is beautiful! Did you ever find out what species of wood it is? Merbau can contain a “gold” fleck that runs through the grain. Can’t really tell from your photo, does it have the gold flake in it?

papaG

View SNSpencer's profile

SNSpencer

133 posts in 1745 days


#3 posted 1729 days ago

Router, or Dado you can solve the blowout/chipout by using a backer board for the cuts. Depending on the wood, I sometimes do this with my dovetail router jig setup as well.

-- Jef Spencer - Refined Pallet - http://www.etsy.com/shop/RefinedPallet

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scrappy

3505 posts in 2062 days


#4 posted 1728 days ago

I also use a backer board. It helps a lot with stopping chip out.

papaG, according to RoseWood, who is from Indonesia (where the crate came from) he thinks it is swetenia mahogany. It doese have a beautifull color to it, and I have more! Just have to plane it down.

Also used same wood on the sides of this box.

Glad I could help.

Scrappy

-- Scrap Wood's the best...the projects are smaller, and so is the mess!

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3739 posts in 2295 days


#5 posted 1728 days ago

I went the tablesaw/dado route. I bought a Woodcraft aluminum jig from a guy on eBay, and picked up a Freud box-joint set (1/4” and 3/8”) when Rockler had them on sale last year. There is a learning curve to getting the saw and jig dialed in, but I got pretty proficient once I figured out how to use machinist keys for setup gauges.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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Ed

19 posts in 1744 days


#6 posted 1725 days ago

I just switched from using a tablesaw/dado setup due to excessive tearout. I now use a router jig and cover the end of each board with blue painter’s tape before routing. Tearout in both red and white oak is minimal, even in 1/4” box joints and dovetails.

I have only routed larger joints in poplar and walnut, so I can’t say how those woods work with 1/4” cuts. But if they work as well as oak, I won’t be going back to the tablesaw.

-- Ed

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papaG

5 posts in 1730 days


#7 posted 1725 days ago

Thanks guys for the input. I am hoping to get a Freud 8’’ DADO set for Christmas. Its teeth are angled back a few degrees and that is supposed to dramatically cut down splintering. If Santa . . . er Mrs Santa, leaves one I will post my results with it.

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