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Forum topic by RSmike posted 10-04-2015 01:22 AM 697 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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29 posts in 2716 days

10-04-2015 01:22 AM

I spent most of today resawing two cedar beams and turning them into 3/8 tongue and groove paneling for my closet… It’s what my bride requested.

Everything I’ve seen in the world seems to indicate that starting at the floor and going up is the way to go and starting at the ceiling and working my way to the floor is either a sin or never done.

I’ve resawed my T&G boards to 5” and I want to end one a full board at the ceiling. At the floor I have an 8” tall molding so I’m not concerned about where I end…i.e. full board or a sliver won’t matter…because I’ll be hiding it behind that tall molding

I’m looking for input from you folks on your thoughts as to why I wouldn’t want to start at the ceiling with my first full board with my groove at the ceiling and working towards the floor??

I’m assuming I’m just flipping the install process but I haven’t really thought about why this might be a bad idea.

I’d really like some comments. Am I missing something here.


-- Mike

4 replies so far

View Tennessee's profile


2873 posts in 2541 days

#1 posted 10-04-2015 01:26 AM

My first post I misunderstood so I deleted it.

I am assuming you are putting on horizontal runs?
I think most people start at the bottom and go up since the tails of their next piece up overlap the lower one, as in shingles and siding. That does not apply here.

To me, in interlocking T&G, I would do vertical runs so the T&G part does not fill with dust over time. I’ve seen a couple of those closets with horizontal runs, and they always have lint and dust in the grooves when you run the boards anything other than vertical. Same with the old knotty pine walls we used to see so much of.

-- Tsunami Guitars and Custom Woodworking, Cleveland, TN

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13608 posts in 3368 days

#2 posted 10-04-2015 01:35 AM

rip the tongue of the top board

make a story board (or calculate the overall space of the wall
with the full shown face of the boards marked
it will tell you how wide the bottom board needs to be
to have a full one at the top

we lay them up from the bottom
with the tongue up
so they stay in place (with a hammer tap sometimes
and close all seams

in doors or water areas
the tongue goes up
so the grove doesn’t collect water

if the ceiling is not level
raise the bottom one slightly
and level it
and then you can taper the top slightly
without loosing the full look

the top back edge needs to be beveled
to get it in place
as the diagonal of the board
is wider than the face

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

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2873 posts in 2541 days

#3 posted 10-04-2015 01:40 AM

patron that works fine as long as the groove is as deep or deeper than the tongue is wide. If not, you end up with that dreaded open groove. Seen that…

-- Tsunami Guitars and Custom Woodworking, Cleveland, TN

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29 posts in 2716 days

#4 posted 10-04-2015 11:22 AM

I am running these horizontal and never through about dust and lint accumulation on the bevels at the seems. Dang I may have run these the other way if I thought about that more. Too late to change that. Sounds like l’ll be vacuuming that once and a while.

My ending board won’t have to touch the floor since I have a tall molding that is wrapping the room.

Patron, I was thinking I’d need to start with ripping the grooves off the first board and then against the ceiling. Then I nail into the edge of the tongue. I’m planning to put a small bit of liquid nails on each board. I will have drywall behind these boards. Studs are not located evenly so I figure the adhesive will actually do the work of holding the boards in place. I’ll put the nails in angled slightly.

Thank you for the tips. Any other pointers are appreciated.

-- Mike

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