Can anyone identify these Marples Chisels?

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Forum topic by sme posted 09-30-2015 05:20 PM 964 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4 posts in 1013 days

09-30-2015 05:20 PM

Hello, can anyone identify these as to whether they have good sheffield steel or terrible chinese one?

I am on a budget but I don’t want to buy terrible tools and was wondering if this is a good investment.

I am just starting and these all look like good sizes (1 and 1/4 1 3/4 1/2 and 1/4)

Thank you very much and thanks for having me on your community :)


6 replies so far

View CharlesA's profile


3329 posts in 1824 days

#1 posted 09-30-2015 05:34 PM

did you mean to include a pic or a link?

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View sme's profile


4 posts in 1013 days

#2 posted 09-30-2015 05:42 PM

Oops, of course, I do not know why nothing showed up, here goes it:$_57.JPG$_57.JPG

Another question for the more experienced woodworkers, fixing those cracks on the 3/4” on scary sharp method/diamond plates would take how long?

Thanks again for your attention :)

View Chris208's profile


239 posts in 2296 days

#3 posted 09-30-2015 07:56 PM

I have those chisels, I paid $60 for a used 6 piece set in similar condition.

It will take you forever (many, many hours) to get them up to snuff without a grinder. I don’t have a grinder, and it was NOT a fun experience. I used sandpaper, and Norton water stones.

They are nice chisels. Sheffield steel. The handles are ugly, but they’re pretty comfy, and hold up well to a beating.

They are called Marples Split-proof chisels.

View sme's profile


4 posts in 1013 days

#4 posted 09-30-2015 09:15 PM

Cool! Thank you very much, Chris =)

They will be my starting set and I managed to get it for 20 pounds (around 30USD), so I feel happy about it now.

I have plenty of time, only working part-time, and as a first set I am eager to tinker with them, Can’t wait to get my hands on them.

I don’t even think they are too ugly, besides, I care more about the beauty of the things I’ll make with them. I’ll think about the beauty of my chisels when I am a better woodworker and capable of turning/shaping my own handles.

I am looking forward to being part of the lumberjocks community, have browsed plenty but only recently started my account.

View DrDirt's profile


4424 posts in 3768 days

#5 posted 09-30-2015 09:26 PM

For ‘cleaning up” on a diamond plate – will depend on how coarse your plate is.

I have a 4X10 Diasharp “coarse” stone 325X that would make short (<10 minutes per chisel) work of getting the edges reshaped and the back flattened so you could move to fine stones and hone.

Results vary but I find that the diamond stones cutting speed is less than a water stone of teh same grit.

e.g. my 325 plate is more like a 600-800 grit waterstone

-- “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” Mark Twain

View sme's profile


4 posts in 1013 days

#6 posted 09-30-2015 09:33 PM

I am probably going to get the 6×2” EZE-LAP Coarse (250 I believe), Medium (600) and Super-Fine (1200), followed by a strop (Paul Sellers’ method). Not just because of Seller’s but also because they are cheaper than DMT by a good margin, at least here in Europe, and Diamond Stones because I do not want to deal with water during winter and diamond stones just seem to be faster and although not as sharp, sharp enough.

6×2” only because I can’t afford the 8×3”s, of course. But for chisels it should be fine, I know larger plane blades would not fit entirely but for now I will just work on my #4.

Do you think I should lap it only on those 3 stones or should I still do the “scary sharp” method in many wet and dry Sand Papers? I did hear of something people complaining that their diamond stones are not 100% flat, I’ll ask for my supplier to double check mine.

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