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Forum topic by Shane posted 09-29-2015 10:14 PM 522 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Shane

293 posts in 1272 days


09-29-2015 10:14 PM

So I’m trying to figure out how to do this and I watched the TWW video about it. Not sure if the Jet jointer I have can be adjusted the same way and if I need to spring for one of those ultra flat Lee Valley straight edges? Any suggestions?


9 replies so far

View ForestGrl's profile

ForestGrl

445 posts in 547 days


#1 posted 09-30-2015 12:23 AM

Can’t answer your question about the jointer specifically, but you will never regret having a good straight-edge around the shop. I have one of these, it’s come in handy numerous times outside of its use on the jointer.

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

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ForestGrl

445 posts in 547 days


#2 posted 09-30-2015 12:44 AM

I took a minute to look around, Sandor Nagyszalanczy has a YouTube video on tuning up a jointer, and it’s the Jet 6” that he uses as a model (I have the same jointer, but haven’t used it or tuned it up in a lonnnnnng time!). There are adjustment screws. I seem to recollect that sometimes a table can be far enough out it needs to be shimmed. Hopefully, it won’t come to that for you.

Re: Sandor’s video: I agree with TWW that using a level is iffy at best, get thee a straight-edge. Also, many people use the wooden-stick method of setting height, but just as many or more think it’s not precise enough. How do you spell “dial gauge”? <grin>

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

View Shane's profile

Shane

293 posts in 1272 days


#3 posted 09-30-2015 12:57 AM

That is the gauge I was looking at. The 38 inch should be long enough for me I think.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4208 posts in 1660 days


#4 posted 09-30-2015 01:33 AM

There is no absolute requirement for an expensive straight edge… you can get results to at least 0.001” using a piece of scrap wood and three drywall screws.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Shane's profile

Shane

293 posts in 1272 days


#5 posted 09-30-2015 01:47 AM

Please elaborate


There is no absolute requirement for an expensive straight edge… you can get results to at least 0.001” using a piece of scrap wood and three drywall screws.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


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MrUnix

4208 posts in 1660 days


#6 posted 09-30-2015 02:56 AM

Please elaborate

It’s from John White’s book “Care and Repair of Shop Machines”, but there are lots of different designs floating around out there that are basically the same. Here is the basics, grabbed from somewhere out there on the net, that should give you the idea:

Get 2 boards/sticks, 1 X 2 or 1 X 1. measure halfway and about 1 inch from the ends. This is the only critical measurement. Screw in 3 screws in each board. Line up the boards and adjust the screws so all the heads touch. Flip ONE of the boards, and adjust the heads again until they all touch. Flip and repeat. When you finally get done, and no screw adjustment is required, you have a 3 point straightedge, accurate enough for your jointer. Note that a straight board is NOT required.

Google for more info.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Shane

293 posts in 1272 days


#7 posted 09-30-2015 03:04 AM

That makes sense. Could you add more screws to line up with certain points on your jointer tables or would that mess it up somehow?

View jonah's profile

jonah

687 posts in 2760 days


#8 posted 09-30-2015 04:06 AM

FYI, my 4ft level, which I don’t treat very kindly, is pretty stinking flat.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 947 days


#9 posted 09-30-2015 04:12 AM

4’ extruded aluminum straight edge here.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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