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Large frame glue up question

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Forum topic by Hutch posted 2480 days ago 1887 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Hutch

125 posts in 2503 days


2480 days ago

I am making an oak frame for a 4’ H X 7 1/2’ W cork board. I have cut mortises into the vertical pieces and finally trimmed the tenons on the ends of the 7’ pieces to fit. Cut the rabbets into the back and now ready to glue the frame up. Other than using tie-downs and ratchet them tight, how do I glue these up?

Thanks for reading.

-- Hutch ...Montana ___ Life is a mystery to live, not a problem to solve! ___


7 replies so far

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

4435 posts in 2568 days


#1 posted 2480 days ago

Hi, Hutch,
I’ve done large frames like this, big door frames for cabinets. I used wedges and a three sided frame screwed to the top of my lay out table. Square up the stationary frame and then glue your large frame and clamp it by driving wooden wedges between the frame and your glue up. Is that clear as mud?

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

View Matt's profile

Matt

119 posts in 3022 days


#2 posted 2480 days ago

A couple of ideas that come to mind include taking a piece of square stock, fitting into the inside of each corner and then clamping one clamp to the longer piece and a second clamp to the shorter piece.

The other idea is to create some clamping jigs that have 45 degree notches at one end and flat at the other. Clamp the jigs, one on each piece and one on each end. So a total of 8 for a square frame. Once the jigs are in place you can then apply a third clamp that fits on the 45 degree notches. These third clamps pull the corners tight.

-- Straight grains & sharp blades

View Hutch's profile

Hutch

125 posts in 2503 days


#3 posted 2479 days ago

Thanks for the ideas. Tom, I don’t exactly have a picture of the three sided frame and wedge plan. I think I’ll have to do one corner at a time because the frame overlaps my layout table. Thanks Matt, does the 45 degree notch idea work only for mitered corners or also the mortise and tenon joint?

I had to laugh after concentrating on the mortise and tenon joints and starting the dry fit, I just looked at it and said “now what?”

-- Hutch ...Montana ___ Life is a mystery to live, not a problem to solve! ___

View Betsy's profile

Betsy

2913 posts in 2501 days


#4 posted 2479 days ago

Hutch – if you google “Bob the Wood Guy” he’s got a quick video on how to glue up picture frames with wedge clamps that I’m sure you can use for this job. I don’t have the link handy and as 8:30 a.m. is quickly approaching – my boss probably wants me to get to work. I’ll try to find it for you at lunch time. It’s a pretty good video.

Betsy

-- Like a bad penny, I keep coming back!

View Mark Mazzo's profile

Mark Mazzo

352 posts in 2518 days


#5 posted 2479 days ago

Hutch,

Since you are not doing mitered corners, you don’t need a band clamp kind of approach to clamping to close and align the miters- so, it gets easier.

If you have some pipe clamps, one way would be to double up 4 foot pipe clamps for each set of M&T joints along the 7 foot length. When I say “double up” I mean that one 4 foot clamp clamps against the tail of the other 4 foot clamp to effective give you almost 8 feet of clamping capacity.

-- Mark, Webster New York, Visit my website at http://thecraftsmanspath.com

View Hutch's profile

Hutch

125 posts in 2503 days


#6 posted 2479 days ago

Thanks Mark.

-- Hutch ...Montana ___ Life is a mystery to live, not a problem to solve! ___

View Betsy's profile

Betsy

2913 posts in 2501 days


#7 posted 2479 days ago

Here’s the link I told you about. Hope it helps. http://youtube.com/watch?v=C2trWWHH9dg

I’m not sure I’ve got the link pasted right. But if you go to youtube and search “woodworking + clamping” it will come up. It’s a pretty slick system.

Betsy

-- Like a bad penny, I keep coming back!

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