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Forum topic by EastCoast506 posted 09-24-2015 11:38 PM 632 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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EastCoast506

10 posts in 438 days


09-24-2015 11:38 PM

Topic tags/keywords: maple question joining

Hey everyone,
I have a two part question. being new to woodworking, you may have to talk to me like a 5 year old with your answers lol.
Ok, first question is about my planer… I have a Delta 12” planer, and it has started to, for lack of a better word, gouge the ends of work. When i put the piece through, the first roller grabs it and before the second roller after the blades can grab it, it planes about 3” of the piece lower than the rest, so i end up with the ends of my piece being about 1/32 less than the rest. my question is, could this be that my blades are dull? or is there some other problem inside the planer.

Second, I’m redoing our dining table top, and im wondering what is the best method to attach it to the base, its a four leg set-up not a pedastal. the wood is going to be 1” thick maple.

Thanks for reading

-- Hunter


7 replies so far

View Shane's profile

Shane

293 posts in 1273 days


#1 posted 09-24-2015 11:48 PM

As to your first question, that is called “snipe” and all planers do it to some degree. Best thing to do is to use wood that is longer than you ultimately need so that you can trim off the sniped ends.

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3020 posts in 1259 days


#2 posted 09-24-2015 11:54 PM

Does this planer have an infeed and outfeed tables? My Ridgid does, and over time they can move a bit. For the Ridgid, having those table tilt up just slightly can almost eliminate snipe. You might want look at such adjustments.

Can you tell a difference in the size of the chips being produced? My understanding is that as blades get duller, the chips get smaller and more like sawdust, kind of grinding the wood off instead of cutting it off cleanly. As cheap as replacement blades are, when in doubt I change the blades.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View jonah's profile

jonah

687 posts in 2760 days


#3 posted 09-24-2015 11:59 PM

You can also lift the ends of the board as it enters and exits the planer. That helps to reduce snipe as well.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2152 days


#4 posted 09-25-2015 12:13 AM

The above guys covered the planer problem so I’ll suggest figure 8 table top connectors as the answer to your second question.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View EastCoast506's profile

EastCoast506

10 posts in 438 days


#5 posted 09-25-2015 12:20 AM

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help, and I will try all these methods and let you know. and gfadvm, do i bend those figure 8 connectors at 90 degrees to attach the top to the base, or do they come in 90 degree pieces?

-- Hunter

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gfadvm

14940 posts in 2152 days


#6 posted 09-25-2015 12:35 AM

No, you leave them flat, countersink slightly into the apron/frame. I use 2 on each end of my tables with none on the sides. They pivot to allow for wood movement.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View pirate's profile

pirate

15 posts in 2648 days


#7 posted 09-25-2015 01:23 AM



As to your first question, that is called “snipe” and all planers do it to some degree. Best thing to do is to use wood that is longer than you ultimately need so that you can trim off the sniped ends.
- Shane

Not quite the case. The planer I just sold (Boice Crane) and the one I now have (Rockwell RC-33) both plane without any snipe.
The Powermatic lunchbox planer I first had, cut with snipe. Making a 1 piece bed for it helped some, as well as picking up the end of the board as it neared the end of the cut.
There is a big difference between a quality stationary planer and a lunchbox planer. Besides ease, quality, and speed of use, my neighbors don’t have to wear hearing protection!

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