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Forum topic by HenryD posted 11-24-2009 08:29 AM 1733 views 1 time favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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HenryD

30 posts in 2571 days


11-24-2009 08:29 AM

Topic tags/keywords: contractor saw craftsman tablesaw new shop restoration

I’ve seen a few posts on Lumberjocks from other who have acquired an old Craftsman belt drive contactor table saw. I recently found one and had been looking for quite awhile. I looked at a couple that were beat to death and not much interested in restoring one. I found one that a guy bought new in the mid 90s (model number 113.298760) to refinish his basement. He said it was more saw than he needed at the time and used it for about half the project and then boxed it back up and stored it away in his basement.

He decided to sell it recently and I found it on craigslist. The saw is basically brand new, no rust at all, just 15 years old with no use. I paid $90.00 for it. He helped me set it up in my garage. It works great but the adjustment wheels (bevel and height) are very stiff. They turn, just very hard. Do you think this will be eased up with WD-40 or do I need to take the mechanisms apart and check the o-rings like others with these saws have done? I’m going to try to get the threads lubricated first and ease them up that way, but are there other areas I can lubricate in the mechanisms without taking them apart other than the threads?

This is my first tablesaw. I pleased with the purchase, but I don’t want to put it in alignment/adjustment until I can get these wheel adjustments to work better. How stiff are they supposed to be?

I’ve got a link belt ordered. I’m not going to change out the pulleys. These appear to be machined steel already. Running the saw vibrates I think mostly from the memory of the folded belt as it was put in the box packaging. As far as a new and better fence?? Is there one that I can install without drilling either the fence or the saw? I’ve seen info about installing a Delta T2 fence but these guys are drilling their saws. Is there such a thing as a retro fit fence that will work with my saw without any mods?

I’m slowly building up my shop and so glad I now have some space. Thought I’d start with the tablesaw. I’m also looking for a good mitre saw and router and router table. What sort of router and table is good to start with?

Thanks all

-- Put your waste wood to use - http://www.wiseheat.com


13 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7216 posts in 2841 days


#1 posted 11-24-2009 09:54 AM

Take a stiff brush to the gears and get any old saw dust out of there. WD-40 will disappear fairly quickly. Lube with dry lube like white lithium grease that won’t attract dust. Even candle wax will work.

Cast iron is fairly easy to drill, so buy a good fence, as opposed to one just because it’s easier to install. The T2 is a great bang for the buck IMHO, and it really shouldn’t be any harder to install than any other.

Get a good in kerf blade while you’re doing this tuneup, and get the alignment spot on…you may want to consider a $20 set of PALS to help with the alignment.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View KingGordon's profile

KingGordon

16 posts in 2609 days


#2 posted 11-24-2009 04:36 PM

I have the CM 113.298762 (a sister saw to yours, I believe) and I just bought the Delta T2 fence. Although everybody on the web was drilling the saw to make the fence fit, mine bolted on with no drilling at all. I bolted it on and simply pulled the adhesive measuring tape and adjusted it to Zero correctly. I did have to fiddle with the splitter attachment, but with some adjustment it fits fine.

The only problem I have is with the power switch, it no longer attached to the original place and I am struggling with where to put it now.

I love the delta T2 fence, it has been great and well worth the $150 price tag. If you want details about where the T2’s bolting holes are I’ll be happy to help.

KG

View HenryD's profile

HenryD

30 posts in 2571 days


#3 posted 11-24-2009 05:55 PM

Thanks, KingGordon. You seem to be the only person I’ve heard of who could get this fence on your saw without drilling either the rails or the fence. Can you attach some photos or explain how you did this? Maybe with our saws being so close in model number this will work on my saw, too.

HD

-- Put your waste wood to use - http://www.wiseheat.com

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HenryD

30 posts in 2571 days


#4 posted 11-24-2009 06:07 PM

It looks to me like the Delta T2 fence might not be compatible with the existing rails on my saw but if you buy the rails that come with the fence and replace the Craftsman rails, then it can all bolt on. I saw a price of $149.00 for the fence and rails. That isn’t too bad a price. But does this seem correct to you, KG?

HD

-- Put your waste wood to use - http://www.wiseheat.com

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KingGordon

16 posts in 2609 days


#5 posted 11-24-2009 07:51 PM

I measured the rails on my saw… here is where the holes are. The $ indicates which holes I used for mounting and the O indicates an open hole.

Front Rail: Left-to-right
[——3 1/8”————10 1/4”———26 1/4”——33 3/8”——- 40 15/16”—50 3/4”———]
[———- O—————$——————- O—————O—————$—————O————]

The first mounting hole is the left-most hole on the main cast iron table. The right-most hole is a bracket attached to the end of the right-most cast iron wing.

Does that help? I can try to get pictures if you think it would help.

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HenryD

30 posts in 2571 days


#6 posted 11-24-2009 09:09 PM

I’ll measure the holes in the front rail of my saw as well. I know my table with the wings attached is 44” wide, like all of these 113.298xxx series saws are. Did you use your saw’s rails or the new rails with the fence? Are your measurements for the new rail or your saw’s rail?

From the holes that you used to mount the Delta T2 rail, it looks as though those two holes are 30 11/16” apart? Is that right? Also, how did the rear rail install?
Thanks, KG

-- Put your waste wood to use - http://www.wiseheat.com

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KingGordon

16 posts in 2609 days


#7 posted 11-24-2009 11:34 PM

Yes, you would need to use the new rails that come with the T2. The measurements above are for the default holes in the new Delta T2 as it came out of the box.

Yes the holes I used are 30 11/16 apart (or it could be 30 5/8 its hard to tell with the rails attached to the saw). The rear rails have the same hole spacing measurements except they go backwards from right-to-left looking at the back of the saw to match the front rail.

Keep asking and I’ll keep answering :)

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HenryD

30 posts in 2571 days


#8 posted 11-25-2009 12:05 AM

Basically, if the 2nd and 5th holes on the front side of my tablesaw are 30 11/16” apart and these match the Delta front rail, then I should be in business. Can you tell me how far below the table surface the new rails are on your saw or if they are flush? I’ve read elsewhere that the table and wings have to be at least 1 1/2” thick.

I’m not at my saw now. I’ll measure tonight and post update late. I really appreciate it, KG.

HD

-- Put your waste wood to use - http://www.wiseheat.com

View bunkie's profile

bunkie

412 posts in 2612 days


#9 posted 11-25-2009 03:02 AM

One word of advice is not to try to force the blade-tilt handle if it’s too stiff. The threaded rod is supported one one end by the sheet-metal side of the saw and if you force it, you can buckle it. Don’t ask me how I know this.

BTW, I fitted an Incra Fence to this saw. It was expensive, but compared to the stock fence, it was wonderful.

-- Altruism is, ultimately, self-serving

View HenryD's profile

HenryD

30 posts in 2571 days


#10 posted 11-25-2009 06:10 AM

KG,

Looks like the tables and wings of our saws are different as far as mounting holes go along the front edge. I have three holes. The leftmost hole is 1 11/16” from the edge of the main table. There are no holes in the wings. The next whole, moving from left to right is 10 3/8” from the left side of the table.

I don’t know if this fence will work or not. I’m going to closely read some of the instructions other guys have put up. If I have to drill, so be it, I guess. It’s a shame that with so many of these saws still in use there’s not a good fence available that will go on it right out of the box.

HD

-- Put your waste wood to use - http://www.wiseheat.com

View KingGordon's profile

KingGordon

16 posts in 2609 days


#11 posted 11-25-2009 02:59 PM

Hi Henry,

Yes, that first hole in the saw at 1 11/16 is what I used for the first bolt. It matches up with the rails second hole (at 10 1/4”) from the left in that diagram I made. Then the second mount point to attach the rail to the saw is 30 5/8” further to the right. My saw had an L bracket that attached to the side of the right extension wing. That L bracket provides the second hole that matches the rail hole shown above at 40 15/16.

I’m sorry I can’t post a picture now, but I’m away from home. I hope that helps.

Thanks and good luck to you,
KG

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HenryD

30 posts in 2571 days


#12 posted 11-25-2009 05:59 PM

It helps a lot. Now I think I only need to drill a single hole in the right wing of the saw. Do you only need two mount points for the rail? And can you use the ruler that comes with the Delta fence? It’s not crucial to use it but it would be nice to.

HD

-- Put your waste wood to use - http://www.wiseheat.com

View KingGordon's profile

KingGordon

16 posts in 2609 days


#13 posted 11-26-2009 04:28 AM

Hello,

My fence seems to work well with only 2 mounting bolts. I think they only provided 2 bolts and it is solid that way.

When I got my fence Installed, I simply zeroed the fence by moving it against the raised blade, peeled off the self-adhesive measuring tape and re-applied it in the correct position. The cursor on the rail has some adjustments so if the tape is not spot-on you have some wiggle room.

Have a great Thanksgiving.
KG

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