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Blum hinge stile width oops.

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Forum topic by skatefriday posted 09-20-2015 08:18 PM 769 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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skatefriday

380 posts in 948 days


09-20-2015 08:18 PM

Well I just discovered that the 1 3/4” stiles on my door
are about a millimeter too narrow to drill out with
a 35mm bit offset at the center 22.5mm from the
edge of the stile.

The question becomes, how much can I get away with
cheating on that 22.5mm distance, moving it closer to the
outside edge of the stile?

Thanks.


13 replies so far

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Daruc

459 posts in 598 days


#1 posted 09-20-2015 08:31 PM

Your hole only needs to be 1/8 – 3/16 from the edge of the door.
What hinge are you using and what overlay are you trying to get?

-- -

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skatefriday

380 posts in 948 days


#2 posted 09-20-2015 09:02 PM

Blum doesn’t seem to put part numbers on their parts, but it’s inset face frame, not overlay.

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skatefriday

380 posts in 948 days


#3 posted 09-20-2015 09:09 PM

And of course, there’s the problem, the reveal on the
side opposite the hinge becomes too small and the hinge
side reveal is too large because we moved the door over.

Oops

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Daruc

459 posts in 598 days


#4 posted 09-20-2015 09:16 PM

Hard to say without knowing exactly the hinge (and mounting plate)
Typically you can drill the hinge cup hole anywhere from 3mm to 7 mm from the edge of the door.
Sorry, but I’m not sure what your trying to say.

-- -

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skatefriday

380 posts in 948 days


#5 posted 09-20-2015 09:20 PM

I made a mistake in the first post. It’s a 1 1/2” stile.

I made this door so long ago (because I’m so slow) that
I forgot what size it is. I must have realized this mistake
later as my second door has 1 3/4” stiles and that seems
to be wide enough for the hinge.

I’ll likely just remake the mistake door sometime in the
future. When I’m done I will have made three kitchens
full of cabinets. :-)

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Daruc

459 posts in 598 days


#6 posted 09-20-2015 10:44 PM

Check these, they may work without having to make new doors, unless you want to make everything the same.
http://www.hardwaresource.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=6366

-- -

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2854 posts in 2696 days


#7 posted 09-21-2015 03:44 AM

Two and 1/4 inch stiles will solve your problem.

Sorry for the bad news. But hey, look at it this way, next time you will know.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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skatefriday

380 posts in 948 days


#8 posted 09-21-2015 03:48 AM


Check these, they may work without having to make new doors, unless you want to make everything the same.
http://www.hardwaresource.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=6366

- woodust

Nice! I’ll have to remember that these exist!

My local cabinet hardware shop, I’m looking at you Siggia, recently cordoned off all of their product aisles because apparently people were gaining weight while walking through the shop. Which makes it more difficult for those of us still trying to learn and figure out what’s out there.

So to those asswipes stealing product, WTF? To Siggia, there are honest people just trying to figure out how to build a set a cabinets. Too bad you can’t tell the difference.

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skatefriday

380 posts in 948 days


#9 posted 09-21-2015 03:50 AM


Sorry for the bad news. But hey, look at it this way, next time you will know.

- MT_Stringer

And that’s my theme. I figure I make each mistake twice and at the
end I get three sets of cabinets.

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MT_Stringer

2854 posts in 2696 days


#10 posted 09-21-2015 05:22 AM

Check out Custom Service Hardware. That’s where I buy Blum soft close hinges and the CSH brand of full extension ball bearing soft close drawer slides. Pretty fast shipping.

I used their hardware on our projects.
Our kitchen remodel
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108347

Mom’s kitchen cabinets
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/97058

Our buffet
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/93006

Good luck.
Mike

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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MT_Stringer

2854 posts in 2696 days


#11 posted 09-21-2015 06:09 AM

Here is a drawing of a set up jig I use to quickly set up stop blocks on my drill press fence.

Actually, I have a Kreg precision trak on my fence and use a flip stop stop block, but the procedure is the same for a regular fence.

To make the set up jig, determine the distance from the top and bottom of your door. Something like 3-4 inches.
Bore a hole with your 35mm (1 3/8 inch) Forstner bit so it is spaced properly from the edge of your jig.

Drill a hole on the other end of the jig.

To use the jig, lower the bit into the hole, adjust your fence so it fits snug against your jig.

Then set your stop block on the end adjacent to the hole you will be boring.

Remove the jig.

Use a piece of scrap to set the depth of the hole you will be boring. Something like 1/2-5/8 inch.

With those steps complete, you should be able to drill all of your doors on one end.
Then re-position the stop and drill the holes on the other end of the door.

Just a quick note. I always mark which stile will get drilled. When you are drilling holes for several doors, it can get confusing. Don’t ask me how I know!!!

Hope this helps.
Mike

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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skatefriday

380 posts in 948 days


#12 posted 09-21-2015 07:11 PM



Check out Custom Service Hardware. That s where I buy Blum soft close hinges and the CSH brand of full extension ball bearing soft close drawer slides. Pretty fast shipping.

I used their hardware on our projects.
Our kitchen remodel
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/108347

Mom s kitchen cabinets
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/97058

Our buffet
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/93006

Good luck.
Mike

- MT_Stringer

That’s some nice work there.

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skatefriday

380 posts in 948 days


#13 posted 09-21-2015 07:13 PM



Here is a drawing of a set up jig I use to quickly set up stop blocks on my drill press fence.

Actually, I have a Kreg precision trak on my fence and use a flip stop stop block, but the procedure is the same for a regular fence.

To make the set up jig, determine the distance from the top and bottom of your door. Something like 3-4 inches.
Bore a hole with your 35mm (1 3/8 inch) Forstner bit so it is spaced properly from the edge of your jig.

I do much the same thing except I just measure in from the ends of my doors. No stop block. To get distance in from the edge for the bore hole I have a spacer template that sits up against a fence on the drill press table (I don’t have the nifty adjustable fence).

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