What do you use to clean your table saw blades?

If you are close to a Woodcraft Supply, they sell a very good product for cleaning blades. I bought a gallon of it several years ago and still have some. Of course you could order it online if there isn’t one nearby.

-- Tom, Surfside Beach, SC - Romans 8:28

The closest Woodcraft to me is in Charleston – about 2 hours away. There is a WoodZone and Rockler outlet in town that I can easily buy cleaner at. However, I’m trying to avoid spending any money unless absolutely neccessary. I’m interested in ways of cleaning the blade using everyday household items. Any ideas would be welcome.

Hi Galoot -

If you’re looking for household cleaners, I’ve used Goop and a clean rag. Seems to take most of the tar and stuff off the blade, and I don’t think there’s anything in there that can hurt the blade or the tips.

-- Bob

Mineral spirits or turpentine, depending on what is gooping your blade… I’ve had great results with both. It also works for router bits.

-- Dekker - http://www.WoodworkDetails.com/Blog/MNagy/

I have feard of people using oven cleaner,be sure your outside spray it on wait a couple of minutes,then with a scrubbing brush when all is clean just rinse it off with water and dry the blade. Hope this helps.

-- dave montreal

Just a heads up Dan, don’t use a degreaser. Most all degreasers (oven cleaner for example) contain a chemical that can break down the bonding of the carbide teeth. Something about carbide teeth flying through my shop gives me the willies. I believe it was Marc Spag that suggested using “little green” cleaning solution. We have it on hand for our little spot carpet cleaner. Soak the blade, and then brush off the resin. It can be reused many times. I also have a couple store bought preventative products I purchased locally. Mann Tool has a 3-pack of Boeshield products for about $30. It contains a preventative spray, a rust removal spray, and a blade and bit cleaner. Since you’re shops aobut 100’ from mine, feel free to borrow some little green if you want to test it before buying. Go to the WoodWhisperer site and watch the most recent podcast. Can’t remember the title. It’s the one in which Marc is doing maintanence after a project. He goes through the cleaning process. Video is worth many words!

-- Jeff, South Carolina

I did a forum on this about a month ago. Go read it. I used Acetone and a soft brass wire brush…Was very pleased with the results.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/941

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

I thought I remember someone using citric acid to clean rust and I thought they also said it cleaned the blade.

-- Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com

I used citric acid to clean plane blades and bodies. Not tried it on saw blades.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

SC, I see you have a lot of choices but of all of the things I have tried, good old 409, a cheap rimmed baking sheet, and a brass brush work every time. I soak the TS blade in the pan for 5 to 10 minutes, bush, dry, and it is ready to go.

-- Rick, Jackson, TN "Do What You Like. Like What You Do" Life Is Good

Been using oven cleaner for years. Still have all my teeth. Only clean um once a year or so anyway.

-- http://www.woodsongsfurniture.com

I’ve used Simple Green, or any similar cleaners from the “organic” section of the supermarket. Works great with the scrubby side of a sponge.

-- I am always doing what I cannot do yet, in order to learn how to do it. - Vincent Van Gogh

Simple Green, as Scott mentioned, works very well. I read this on the web about 2 years back (lots of people experimented with it). It is known not to cause any problems with the welding of the carbide teeth to the blade. I used it to clean both table saw blades and router bits and it works really well. I usually scrub with an used toothbrush. I usually do not bother to take the blade down (my father managed to drop a blade on the floor and bend a teeth; since then I clean them in place).

I would personally not bother with a specialized product since Simple Green is so good and is so much more cost effective (and you can use it to clan other things in the house).

Alin

-- -- Alin Dobra, Gainesville, Florida

SC_Galoot- this months shop notes has done an article about blade and bit cleaners from either household cleaners or what you may already have in your shop…....unfortunately I just got the mag today, and haven’t read it yet….....

I’ve used oven cleaner, but it does peel the red coating off Freud blades… won’t do that again.

-- "Bordnerizing" perfectly good lumber for over a decade.

I SPRAY MINE WITH WD40

-- Robert, mountainwoodcarving@netzero.net

I’ve used the “orange or citrus version” of Pinesol. It was on sale at Safeway so I figured why not give it a try – the price was right. I found a shallow round pan, poured in some Pinesol and then put the saw blade in for a soak. With a light brushing it came out looking like new. I rinsed off the Pinesol, dried the blade and then used WD40 to remove any moisture. Rather than dump out the used Pinesol, I just used a funnel and put it back in the bottle.

-- CutNRun - So much wood, so many trails, so little time

I too use Simple Green with a brass bristle brush, cheap and works very well.

-- Doug, Cass City, Michigan

Orange Oil, fulll strength. Soak for 10 minutes and brush. Wear eye protection, this stuff is potent!

-- North Texas

I used Simple Green on two of my blades last night. Set them in a pizza pan, sprayed on a little green, let it set a few minutes then brushed off with a brass brush. They look great but I have not cut with one yet.

-- http://ragtimewoodwork.blogspot.com/

WD-40 works pretty good.

-- Maplewood, MN

Home depot sells some stuff called krud kutter, it’s in the paint section. i clean both my router bits and saw blades with. It’s cheap and works great.

-- Joey, Magee, Ms http://woodnwaresms.com

I keep a 5 gallon paint bucket on hand for cleaning my 10” blades. They fit perfect in the bottom.

For a cleaning solution, like others I use simple green and a brass brush after soaking overnight.
Just 1/4 to 1/2” in the bottom is all it takes. Then I empty it into a jar to use again.

Looks as good as new and is very cheap.

Gary

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.