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Forum topic by CMS2 posted 09-16-2015 01:51 AM 706 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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CMS2

5 posts in 452 days


09-16-2015 01:51 AM

I’m going to build new kitchen cabinets from 3/4 melamine. The backs of the cabinets will also be 3/4 melamine. Can I hang the upper cabinets by screwing through the melamine into the studs or will I need some type of “backer” piece


10 replies so far

View Pezking7p's profile

Pezking7p

3097 posts in 1119 days


#1 posted 09-16-2015 01:57 AM

If the backs are 3/4, screw away.

-- -Dan

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

809 posts in 2317 days


#2 posted 09-16-2015 08:47 PM

Is that going to be particle board 3/4” melamine?

If so they’ll be goofy heavy, might consider building the cabinet with the back 3/4” into the case so that you could have a French cleat to hang them

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View Bmezz's profile

Bmezz

34 posts in 851 days


#3 posted 09-16-2015 08:53 PM

5/8” is standard including the back. If you rabbet or dadoe the back then you have no worries screwing through the back. 35 years in the kitchen business and never lost a cabinet. Cheers, Bob

-- Member Valley Woodturners Ottawa

View CMS2's profile

CMS2

5 posts in 452 days


#4 posted 09-16-2015 11:24 PM

Thanks for the replies. Any suggestions for the best screws to use when hanging them?

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1592 posts in 892 days


#5 posted 09-17-2015 12:30 AM

Melamine is not a board, but a material used to veneer wood or in most cases, particle board. Particle board and MDF do not take screws well. I suggest a French Cleat design that ChefHDAN suggested.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

528 posts in 909 days


#6 posted 09-17-2015 05:07 AM


Particle board and MDF do not take screws well. – timbertailor

Yes, but he’s screwing through the PB into wall studs, which hold screws fine. These cabinets will be heavy, but you can screw through the back at will.

(Installing a French cleat would mean screwing into the PB—-an admittedly weak connection—or trying to glue to the melamine—-also problematic. Better to screw through the PB and into the studs.)

“Best screws”? Something like this:

Quick Screws

View Bmezz's profile

Bmezz

34 posts in 851 days


#7 posted 09-17-2015 10:20 AM

#8 or #10 at 2 1/2” or 3” depending on wall construction. Always use cup washers. They’ll never move.

-- Member Valley Woodturners Ottawa

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1777 days


#8 posted 09-17-2015 10:29 AM

I have build a lot of cabinets using Melamine (over particle board). My standard back is 3/4”. Absloulty no need for a French cleat system. Screw through the 3/4 back in a stud will be sufficient.

Most all my cabinets no matter what the material has a 3/4 back. The box is constructed like in the picture. the top and deck of the cabinet are 3/4 less in width than the sides. I screw (confirmats) through the sides into the back and though the back into the top and deck. Been doing this way for a long time. It works.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View kKirk's profile

kKirk

8 posts in 696 days


#9 posted 09-17-2015 03:27 PM

I’ve done the 3/4” melamine (particle board) backed upper cabinets. As a side note I did 1/4” melamine backs on the lowers since you aren’t ‘hanging’ the cabinets off of the wall. I used FastCap cabinet installation screws available at Menards. They are specifically made for this installation with an extra large flat head as to not blow through the particle board. Then they have melamine adhesive cover dots that match the size of the screw heads and match the melamine color you have chosen.

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

809 posts in 2317 days


#10 posted 09-17-2015 03:48 PM

Agreed all 3/4” melamine PB into a stud is plenty, my cleat suggestion was because they can get so damn heavy, it’s nice to be able to level the cleats on the wall and then throw the cabinets up onto the wall. Could do the same thing with a level 2”x4” cleat at the level base line of the cabinets and have a helper or a deadman to hold them in place while you drive the screws home

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

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