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Hitachi C10LA Cabinet Saw

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Forum topic by jokerr posted 09-15-2015 01:31 AM 740 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jokerr

7 posts in 1172 days


09-15-2015 01:31 AM

I own a Hitachi C10LA Cabinet Table Saw.Here what is happening.
When i run the saw I am able to maybe rip like three or four boards that are 1×12 pine.
The saw then cuts off like it is getting hot.Which after only three or four boards I don’t think so.
This also did this awhile a back and I had changed the Circuit Breaker Switch and it worked great for awhile.
Then It started doing it again and thus I changed the switch out once more and it did not work.Kept doing the same thing.
Thought maybe I got a bad switch so tried another one and it the same thing….......only worse :o)

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks!!


9 replies so far

View ForestGrl's profile

ForestGrl

445 posts in 548 days


#1 posted 09-15-2015 02:15 AM

Are you using an extension cord? (always the first question when this kind of problem pops up). Are you forcing the stock through, trying to go too fast? If the answer to both of these is no, time to sort out some other stuff. First of all, is the SAW cutting off, or is the circuit breaker tripping causing the saw to shut down? For the sake of clarity, use the term “circuit breaker” for the mechanism in your electrical box, and “switch” for the on/off of your saw.

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

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jokerr

7 posts in 1172 days


#2 posted 09-15-2015 02:22 AM

No to the first two questions.
It is the saw cutting off and not the circuit breaker on the breaker panel.
When i reference the “Circuit Breaker Switch” it is the reset button on the saw.
They call it a circuit breaker switch on the Hitachi.

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runswithscissors

2183 posts in 1487 days


#3 posted 09-15-2015 02:35 AM

Can that saw be configured to run off 120 or 240 volts? If so, and if you have a 240 v. outlet, you will likely not have the problem if you reconfigure the motor.

If it is dual voltage, it may be a hybrid saw, not a cabinet saw.

If you don’t have a 240 outlet, it would be worth putting in, in my experience. I never trip circuits with my 240 volt equipment (Unisaw, 12” planer/jointer combo, DC, 18” bandsaw, wire welder, and shaper. Reminds me, I need to add another outlet or two.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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jokerr

7 posts in 1172 days


#4 posted 09-15-2015 02:42 AM

Whoa!! Not even sure I could do that with out blowing up my house or the neighborhood :o)

View Shane's profile

Shane

293 posts in 1273 days


#5 posted 09-15-2015 02:59 AM

Try using a thin kerf blade to take some pressure off the saw motor. It has to move less material and so doesn’t cause it to work as hard

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Rick M

7910 posts in 1842 days


#6 posted 09-15-2015 04:11 AM

I would have bet on extension cord too. Could the cord be damaged?

It definitely should not be doing that but in the meantime you can make things easier by using a ripping blade, if not already. General purpose or combination blades require more power for ripping.

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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runswithscissors

2183 posts in 1487 days


#7 posted 09-15-2015 06:52 AM

jokerr: Of course I don’t run everything at once. Well, the DC runs simulteneously with the other 220 tools, but the DC has its own separate circuit.

-- I admit to being an adrenaline junky; fortunately, I'm very easily frightened

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jokerr

7 posts in 1172 days


#8 posted 09-17-2015 01:14 AM

Rick M….........I actually have a breaker for the saw alone that has a direct outlet.
But I did try an extension cord as well with the same results.
And I also tried a brand new blade.
I did check the capacitor and noticed it was burnt.
This particulate motor has two capacitors .I can’t reach the one in the back with taking everything apart.
I removed the burnt decapitator and the results are the same.
Could this be the issue?? Hmmmmmmmmm??

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4216 posts in 1661 days


#9 posted 09-17-2015 01:20 AM


I removed the burnt decapitator and the results are the same.
Could this be the issue?? Hmmmmmmmmm??

If it’s the run capacitor, yes. Easy to test with a multimeter to see if they are good or not, but any visual sign of failure/damage (ie: looking ‘burnt’) indicates a replacement is needed – even if it tests good.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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