Band saw guide setup?

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Forum topic by RetiredCoastie posted 11-17-2009 03:25 AM 1005 views 1 time favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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999 posts in 2603 days

11-17-2009 03:25 AM

I have a delta 14” BS that I have used mostly for cutting curves. I just replaced the older fiber guides with new ceramic guides. The old set were adjusted using a dollar bill to set the gap with. The ceramic guides didn’t come with any set up instructions. Do you set the gaps with the same method or do you set them just touching the blade?

I also have a 3/4” blade that I want to use to re-saw some ash with but I need to cut as even a slice as possible. Except for setting the fence is there any other tricks that will ensure and even cut? Thanks for any advice you folks would have!

-- Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

6 replies so far

View End_Grain's profile


95 posts in 2557 days

#1 posted 11-17-2009 04:01 AM

I’m new but I’ll take a stab at this. I’m sure I’ll be corrected if I am in err.

I think the first and most important factor is your blade. Quality of blade and sharpness first and foremost. If there is any set to the blade, it will be tough to get good cuts. Second is the fence you will be using and lastly your guides and their adjustment. I’m using a 1/2 ” blade with a mag fence resawing to make veneer and I’m getting great results.

-- My greatest fear is that when I die, my wife will sell all my stuff for what I told her I bought it for.

View j_olsen's profile


155 posts in 2591 days

#2 posted 11-17-2009 04:24 AM

From a blue water sailor to a mud duck—just kidding
Coastie try the woodwhisperer video—here’s the link—might answer your questions

-- Jeff - Bell Buckle, TN

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5103 posts in 2614 days

#3 posted 11-17-2009 04:43 AM

Hey R.C.: I have a 14 ” Delta also, and I’ll try to help. First, you can set up the guides either way—either with a buck folded into, like your old ones, or set the blade just behind the teeth, not too tight. You know the drill.
I resaw with a 1/2” blade over a 3/4” most of the time. Either one will work, but try to use a 4-5 tooth per inch—better cuts. I built an extra big and wide table out of MDF with a miter slide out of hardwood, and cut a miter slot from left to right, and about 6” in front of the blade. I added a oak hardwood fence to the miter gauge with screws, raise the blade up to clear the fence, and set the piece next to the fence, and slice away.
That should work for you—works for me and I get a pretty even re-saw in two pieces.

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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999 posts in 2603 days

#4 posted 11-17-2009 05:04 AM

Thanks Jeff and Rick! The link and the Info both of you provided confirmed what I have done. I just needed some confirmation before I ruined a project that I was changing in mid stream. Thanks again!

-- Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

View Sawdust2's profile


1467 posts in 3507 days

#5 posted 11-17-2009 06:55 AM

A little more affirmation.
I’ve used a 3/4” blade on a 14” bandsaw with riser. IMHO that is too much blade for the motor. 1/2” blade is more than sufficient. My BS is a Jet and with at 3/4” blade there is little room front to back to adjust the bearings.

I was doing fine resawing 6” boards with a 4 TPI blade but when I tried to cut a 10” board the blade really wandered. A friend pointed out that 4 TPI on a 6” board meant 24 teeth in the wood and on a 10” board it meant 40 teeth were in the board. A lot more work and less gullet to clean out the kerf. I switched to a 3 TPI blade and was back in business.

Just some observations.


-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

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999 posts in 2603 days

#6 posted 11-17-2009 07:50 AM

Thanks Lee, that’s good info!

-- Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

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