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Forum topic by ChrisBarrett posted 09-09-2015 07:36 PM 1293 views 0 times favorited 30 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ChrisBarrett

99 posts in 518 days


09-09-2015 07:36 PM

Hello all, I just purchased: http://www.leeson.com/leeson/searchproduct.do?invoke=viewProductDetails&motorNo=120341.00&productType=0 off of ebay. It is 230v, single phase. It has 5 wires: 2 black, 1 red, 1 white, and 1 green. How do I wire this into a normal 2 wire + ground 220v outlet? I am attempting to upload some pictures.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

Pictures: http://imgur.com/cvBKRix

http://imgur.com/YMbOamv


30 replies so far

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TopamaxSurvivor

17654 posts in 3136 days


#1 posted 09-09-2015 07:42 PM

Click the view connection link on that page you posted. It should be marked with T #s as well as color coded. If it is attached to the blower it should be wired for the correct rotation.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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ChrisBarrett

99 posts in 518 days


#2 posted 09-09-2015 07:58 PM

I was told it was wired for CCW rotation, but my question is how do I wire it up to an outlet that only has 3 wires going to it? Why are there 5 wires for a single phase 230v motor?

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TopamaxSurvivor

17654 posts in 3136 days


#3 posted 09-09-2015 08:12 PM

One line will go to T-1 & 8, the other will go to T 4 & 5. The 3rd wire should be your ground that needs to attach to the motor frame. There is usually a green grounding connection on most motors. If in doubt, call an electrician.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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ChrisBarrett

99 posts in 518 days


#4 posted 09-09-2015 08:21 PM

Thanks topamax, so what the reason for having separate wires is just to control the rotation direction? You’d think that there would be only 3 wires coming out of the box on the motor instead of 5 then…

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TopamaxSurvivor

17654 posts in 3136 days


#5 posted 09-09-2015 08:36 PM

UR welcome. You change rotation by swapping T 5 & 8 where they connect to power..

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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MrUnix

4203 posts in 1659 days


#6 posted 09-09-2015 08:37 PM

You’d think that there would be only 3 wires coming out of the box on the motor instead of 5 then…

Wouldn’t work that way… with A/C voltage, there is no polarity like there is in a D/C circuit. Rotation needs to be handled inside the motor, not external to it.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Some motors have 9 or more leads :)

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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TheFridge

5764 posts in 946 days


#7 posted 09-09-2015 08:47 PM

It’s a ground wire and the 4 ends of 2 windings I’m assuming. 1 start and and 1 run winding.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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ChrisBarrett

99 posts in 518 days


#8 posted 09-09-2015 08:52 PM

Got it to work. Thanks again Topamaxsurvivor! This thing sucks and blows, at the same time!

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ChrisBarrett

99 posts in 518 days


#9 posted 09-09-2015 08:53 PM

MrUnix, yeah I’m way more familiar with DC than AC.

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ChrisBarrett

99 posts in 518 days


#10 posted 09-11-2015 12:13 AM

So going back to my noobishness about AC and motors, do I need a motor starter for this? Or can I just wire in a double pole switch?

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MrUnix

4203 posts in 1659 days


#11 posted 09-11-2015 01:17 AM

A real mag starter is a safety feature and will provide a safe power failure mode and overload protection (which is good as that motor doesn’t have any). I believe I’ve seen some of the smaller magnetic switches (paddle switch) that also can provide overload protection, but I don’t have a reference handy at the moment. Of course, it’s your motor – so you could wire it up with any switch you want. If you decide to get a DP switch, I would recommend that you get one that is motor (induction) rated for your motors current draw. Most normal toggle switches (and the ever popular wall switch) are only rated for resistive loads. They will work, but will burn up the contacts pretty quickly and could result in some unexpected behaviour depending on how it fails.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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TheFridge

5764 posts in 946 days


#12 posted 09-11-2015 01:25 AM

The only switch you could possibly put on is a motor rated switch. I’d vote for a starter though.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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ChrisBarrett

99 posts in 518 days


#13 posted 09-11-2015 02:02 AM

MrUnix, so ultimately I’d like to do something like: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006FKJEQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1QXUNLTAU6H35&coliid=I2YS36NFUKLBU&psc=1

Could I use this in lieu of a starter? I’d actually like to build my own setup like this, a 240v relay 30a that’s triggered by a low voltage connection across the blast gates.

*The reason why I want to build my own, is because I’m using all 6” ducting, so I’d need to construct my own microswitches on 6” blast gates.

Thoughts?

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ChrisBarrett

99 posts in 518 days


#14 posted 09-11-2015 02:29 AM

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TopamaxSurvivor

17654 posts in 3136 days


#15 posted 09-11-2015 03:45 AM



So going back to my noobishness about AC and motors, do I need a motor starter for this? Or can I just wire in a double pole switch?

- ChrisBarrett

Check the nameplate. It may say “Thermally Protected”. If it does, you do not need a starter, just switch or relay with properly rated contacts to start/stop. Switch or relay needs to be rated in HP, not amps, at the utilization voltage.

If it doesn’t say “Thermally Protected”, a motor started is required or a toggle switch with overload protection.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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