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Forum topic by mikedddd posted 11-14-2009 09:20 PM 1631 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mikedddd

145 posts in 1881 days


11-14-2009 09:20 PM

Hello everyone; I was wondering if anyone here has had any success at making a zero clearance insert for there SawStop saw. I have the ICS SawStop saw and have tried a couple of times to make one for it but neither one of my attempts worked very well. It is for dado use that I mostly would like to make them for as the one that comes with the saw works fine with a saw blade. Thanks for any advice you can give me.

-- Mike


10 replies so far

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mcase

438 posts in 1780 days


#1 posted 11-14-2009 09:42 PM

Hey Mikedddd,

I’ve had the Industrial Sawstop for over two years now. Don’t you just love it? Making an insert for this saw would be a pain, what with the notches for the two back-end screws and the fussy little hole for the front screw. Anyway, I never bothered with making a zero clearance for the dado, since the one they sell works just fine. I can’t remember the price, but I don’t recall being upset by it. Though I should point out that Sawstop now charges a $15.00 postage and handling fee, so if you order something you might as well grab some extra belts etc. since you have to pay the $15.00 anyway. Sorry I can’t be more help, but it was one of those things where it just didn’t seem worth it to me.

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mikedddd

145 posts in 1881 days


#2 posted 11-15-2009 12:07 AM

Mcase; First off welcome to Lumber Jocks.

I’ve also had my saw for two years now and yes it is a very nice saw. I can get one locally for $40.00, but was hoping maybe someone had luck making them out of Baltic birch plywood or some other material. I bought one when I purchased the saw, but have since used it with wider stacks of dados so when you go back to using a 1/4” setup there is a quite a large gap between the blade and insert.

-- Mike

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Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2473 days


#3 posted 11-15-2009 02:22 AM

Mike, I have to agree with Mcase. It would be a challenge to build one. Not impossible but a challenge nonetheless given the hold down mechanisms that Sawstop uses in the throat plates. A new one will run $39 so it is not going to break the bank. One plate should last for a long time.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

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mikedddd

145 posts in 1881 days


#4 posted 11-15-2009 02:48 AM

Scott;
I think you and Mcase are correct in saying that it is just too difficult to make your own and yes one would last a long time at $39.00 or $40.00. If I’m correct you have the newer professional version, on that one the insert has a tooless mechanism that holds the front down, I think that is correct. On the older Industrial models they don’t have that part of it just a hole for a screw which would make building one a little simpler. Thanks for the reply and have a good weekend.

-- Mike

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rcs47

182 posts in 1781 days


#5 posted 11-15-2009 03:57 AM

Mike,

I saw an after market “SawStop” insert on Ebay a few weeks ago. It was made out of aluminum, and had different wood strips that you could use for different blade setups. All for the low, low price of $100. The only problem, no place for the riving knife!

I have the contractor saw and love it. I have not tried to make an insert, but if yours locks down with an allen screw like mine does, it should be easy enough to make one. But I still think I would buy another insert from SawStop. My luck, one of the pan head screws I’d use as a catch for the front of the insert would come lose and wedge between the blade and the brake.

Doug

-- Doug - As my Dad taught me, you're not a cabinet maker until you can hide your mistakes.

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mikedddd

145 posts in 1881 days


#6 posted 11-15-2009 05:22 AM

Doug;
I think the insert in your contractor saw would be the same as the one in my saw. I was thinking about waiting for the contractor saw to come out when I bought mine, but then ended up selling my old Ridgid contractor saw and was stuck with no saw, so I bit the bullet and bought the industrial model and have never regretted it since, excellent saw. I’m glad to here you like your saw your the first person that I’ve heard from that has the contractor saw. I thought that my shop was the only one where things like the screw getting stuck between the brake and the blade would happen. Enjoy the rest of the weekend and thanks for the reply.
P.S. Actually in my shop the screw would probably make it to the dust collector and break a chunk out of the impeller throwing it out of balance.

-- Mike

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mcase

438 posts in 1780 days


#7 posted 12-24-2009 05:28 PM

I know this is a late response. I have not been following this thread. I know rcs47 means well, but you absolutely can NOT use a conductive insert on a Sawstop. It will trigger the safety mechanism if the blade touches it! Wood or plastic only

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HokieMojo

2101 posts in 2379 days


#8 posted 05-18-2010 08:18 PM

I think he was saying the insert was framed in aluminum. The only parts that would contact the blade would have replaceable wooden strips. This way you can buy one insert and just replace the wooden strips as necessary.

View Jack Colliflower's profile

Jack Colliflower

10 posts in 785 days


#9 posted 09-10-2012 01:49 PM

Hi, Mike!
Yes, I’ve had some success with making a zero-clearance throat plate for SawStop. The one I made is a “lifer.” Check out this link to see:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_12?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=sawstop+zero-clearance+throat+plate+insert&sprefix=sawstop+zero%2Caps%2C269

Enjoy!

-- J Colliflower

View CessnaPilotBarry's profile

CessnaPilotBarry

890 posts in 761 days


#10 posted 09-10-2012 06:27 PM

I made all my dado inserts, several 10” blade, and some dual blade tenon, ZCS inserts for my ICS from 1/2” Baltic birch ply. They’re even reversable for two sizes of dado to each insert.

All of my my shop made inserts get leveled with 1/4-20 set screws theaded into the ply. Drilll, thread, remove the screws , soak the hole with CA glue, allow to dry, and reinstall the screws.

I just put the stock insert in for situations where the internal mechanism contacts the bottom of the insert, like certain tilts and near to full blade extension.

-- It's all good, if it's wood...

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