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Forum topic by willhime posted 09-03-2015 10:10 PM 676 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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81 posts in 956 days

09-03-2015 10:10 PM

Topic tags/keywords: jig tip question trick cedar tablesaw router joining

Making shiplap siding with cedar fence pickets (not ideal, but it is what it is). Trying to get the rabbet down each board has been tedious, and somewhat anxious. Is there a safer way to tackle this? I have a hold down wheel at the end of my fence to keep it down after the cut… and that then produces the next problem of ‘how am I going to push it through all the way ? Methods I’ve been trying out:

Dado blade far side of the board
Dado next to fence
Router dado jig
rip flat, turn vertically, rip opposing edge for 90 degree cut
Rip hold down sled

is there a better way to go about it? the guy at woodcraft only offered up to make a job specific push stick that could sit on the outward corner, with a 90 degree groove, but that still feels dangerous..

-- Burn your fire for no witness

8 replies so far

View DrDirt's profile


4134 posts in 3159 days

#1 posted 09-03-2015 10:41 PM

I would put a sacrificial fence on – and have teh dado next to the fence – - set at just a smudge over 1/2 the thickness.

Then you can run it against the fence for one side – - then flip it and have the corresponding ‘tongue’ on the other edge.

You have a hold down wheel which is fine – - I would use a pair of featherboards to keep your siding tight against the fence.

Are you cutting a decorative bevel on the top edge?
There is also shiplap like this cut with a shaper/router. with a rabbet on the other end.

-- 'Political correctness is fascism pretending to be manners' ~George Carlin

View willhime's profile


81 posts in 956 days

#2 posted 09-04-2015 07:00 AM

The decorative bevel would be really nice.., I think I might be expecting too much out of this light weight cedar picket wood. I haven’t tried the sacrificial fence, but that sounds like a good idea. I was getting ready to do a cheater joint- two 45 degree edges sitting inside themselves. I’ve heard it’s not as effective, sealant-wise though. Is it worth it to do the shiplap in favor of the 45’s touching ?

-- Burn your fire for no witness

View willhime's profile


81 posts in 956 days

#3 posted 09-04-2015 07:08 AM

Also, I don’t have a moulder/shaper. Tablesaw, router station, 18” bandsaw, etc.

-- Burn your fire for no witness

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2263 posts in 1787 days

#4 posted 09-04-2015 01:41 PM

What about just using a handheld router (I’m assuming your router station has one) with either a rabbeting bit, or dado bit and edge guide? You could just set the slat on your bench, run the rabbet, repeat for the next board, etc. You could set up stops if you’re worried about it moving, but I would just put down some rubber shelf liner on the bench (they sell it at the dollar store, for some reason when we moved, my wife picked up like 15 rolls, they never got used…)

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View Richard H's profile

Richard H

483 posts in 1098 days

#5 posted 09-04-2015 02:05 PM

I think a handheld router with a rabbet bit would be a better choice here as SinghamtonEd mentioned. Tablesaws are great if you have pieces that are square in at least 2 faces and ideally all four. If they are not it’s a downright dangerous tool to use.

View TheDane's profile


4930 posts in 3080 days

#6 posted 09-04-2015 02:14 PM

If you have a router table (station?) and a rabbeting bit, that is probably the way to go.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Nubsnstubs's profile


805 posts in 1147 days

#7 posted 09-04-2015 02:16 PM

You didn’t say whether you had a jointer. If you do, that could be an option if the rabbet didn’t exceed the jointer’s capability. ........... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View helluvawreck's profile


22669 posts in 2284 days

#8 posted 09-04-2015 02:18 PM

If you have a shaper you can make it a lot more capable machine by investing in a power feeder. A power feeder also works for a table saw when running something like you are describing. A feeder is made for thru feed operations and will be great for the part you are describing and the feeder also acts as a guard over the blade or cutter. You do have to set it up right so that the feeder wheels don’t touch the cutter and the part stays against the fence. You also need to extract the dust so that the wheels can maintain their traction because if enough dust coats the wheels the wheels loose their traction. Before we bought our first molder we had seven shapers and also several feeders. With a feeder a shaper really becomes a one head molder.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away. Henry David Thoreau

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