Advice for selecting wood for my table project

Chris, have you considered using oak as your wood of choice? Oak is relatively inexpensive, I just bought some 4/4 stock from my supplier for $2.00 a bf, it machines easily, is readily available and is hard enough to handle being a table top.

And if you want it on the darker side this is easily done with dyes or stains as oak is pretty easy to color. Here is a cabinet that is in the construction stage in my shop now:

As you can see this is going to be a dark cabinet.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

Walnut, mahogany, and cherry are typical darker woods, but those tend to be as expensive as maple, and sometimes more depending on where you live. Oak, ash, sassafras, and butternut are all less expensive woods that take stain well.

Chris:
Sounds real ambitious for a first time attempt. But hey, what the heck, with vision and determiniation like you have…...... All the best… Really.
Look—This is an alternative to expensive woods.
Have you thought of verneerd ply or verneerd chip board.. Basically all prepared for you already.
Just a matter of you cutting to size and shape. Double up with normal ply, chip, etc for the underside for weight, sturdiness, thickness.
Easy to work with, not as expensive as solid wood. ( still has to be machined etc) Accepts stains and finnishes well. Easy to replace if damaged…Use hard woods for the edges to give the whole piece a solid look.
Looking forward to your finished project.
All the best.

-- "Even small steps makes a distance." (Shawn Phillips, musician)

Sounds like a big project , I like wiping stain and it comes in some many dark shades .

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

Awesome project! Ol’ time D&D fun. I’m a big WoW player myself though family, jobs, and hobbies kinda puts it on the back burner nowadays.

I agree with Chris. Oak is good, relatively inexpensive, and easily found. It’s also a versatile wood for finishing, either dark or light, depending on your tastes. Likewise, oak plywood works well as a base, though a table may not need much of it, other than the top (trimmed in oak boards and you’ll never know that it is plywood).

I would fill the pores of an oak table top, maybe even with a light pore filler for a pickled look…nice against a dark stain.

Be sure to look at some of the projects here for inspiration. I recall some chess tables that really rocked my world!

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

Welcome Chris. Game tables are popular amoung woodworkers. Norm Abrams of the New Yankee Workshop built one a few years ago that was top notch. You can buy plans off his website.

http://www.newyankee.com/

On a more complicated piece that I want to look really nice, I prefer to use or modify a ready made plan rather than reinvent the wheel, so to speak. Norm covered the actual playing area with felt, I think red or green. So the material wood for the playing area could a lesser grade material, such as MDF, masonite, or 3/4” plywood. The money shot is the trim around the playing area that holds the chips and cups. For those areas I would select a wood that takes a dark, rich finish like Scottknots suggested, especially oak or mahogany. And I like agree with Scott Bryan that for the look and price, it is hard to beat oak, white first. Red is fine but you may want to fill the pores. I really really love white oak. Take your time on the miters to get them right, and cut them all at the same time once you get your setup ready. Don’t be afraid to make a shooting board with the proper miter angle to help make the angles near perfect.

On the finish a couple of words here, alcohol will damage a shellac. Oil/varnish goes on well, would probably stand up to abuse and is easy to repair.

My best advise is to start a blog series here on LJs, post pictures (we respond to pictures) , ask questions (we love to answer questions, haha), and have some fun. I’m looking forward to seeing your progress. Remember, it’s all about the journey. Don’t rush, take your time, and you’ll have a straight table. Get it, straight. Ok I’ll stop here.

-- david roberts, houston area, "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, but that has never been a problem for me."

Here’s some inspiration from a fellow LJ’er. Really nice.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/21777

-- david roberts, houston area, "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, but that has never been a problem for me."

great responses so far people, thanks. I’m kind picky about these things, which is why I’m starting from scratch. There might be some major customizations that I doubt would be in common plans and the perfectionist in me won’t cut anything until I have drawings that tell me what I want to know.
Here’s an EARLY mockup… 1”:1’; scale made from cardboard and foam core.

The legs are stupid… I’ll figure out them after the top design is solid.

Oak sounds like a perfectly reasonable choice.
What about inside the top? Parts that won’t be seen – supports/framing? Is plywood okay as a vertical support?

Popular is quite often used for under the cover wood. It’s a great hardwood and is easy to use.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

You can also check out this site for some tables.

http://www.homepokertourney.com/tables_free_poker_table_plans.htm

Alot of them are ‘quick and easy’, but give some real nice ideas.

mdf and black paint

-- http://www.furnituremann.ca/

Hah!
MDF and black paint. Good one. I guess if I was making it for a gaming store or a dorm room, perhaps… actually, I’m sure that would look fine, especially if glossy… but I want it to look like “adult” furniture for young at heat stuff. ;)