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sharpening saw blades

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Forum topic by SCOTSMAN posted 13 days ago 368 views 0 times favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SCOTSMAN

2237 posts in 476 days


13 days ago

First off it’s good to be back after my injury to my back which I twisted a little while ago.Thanks to those of you who asked after me God Bless all of you for being really wonderful friends to me over the last year or so,it means evrything to me as my shops are apart from my wonderful wife of almost forty years Bronwen and my sons Alistair Russell and Ewen and immediate family,including Lucie and Reuben Jay my darling wee grandson whom I adore.Alistair

My woodshop saw man has not been around for about a year .I live in the HIghlands of Scotland by the sea and my nearest big city is a car ferry ride and an hours drive just to get there through thick traffic.This is both time consuming and expensive when you add it up it’s becoming easier just to buy new blades when my expensive blades get dull.So I am saving them up.I recently saw a device for sharpening blades on ebay I have facilities to make a similar device myself and intend to.I just want to check what part of the blades get sharpened ? I know you never relieve the thickness of the teeth so that they always remain the same saw kerf when cutting.I just don’t know if you do underneath where the blade meets the wood or also on top.any advice or a site covering this would be helpful.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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TexPenn

277 posts in 578 days


13 days ago

www.woodweb.com

-- Ted, TX or PA www.around-the-bend.com

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

480 posts in 943 days


13 days ago

I’m glad you’re feeling better and back with us!

I sent you a PM and never got an answer… didn’t know you were laid up.

Take care

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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SCOTSMAN

2237 posts in 476 days


13 days ago

Joe I did answer somethings gone wrong!Well maybe I made a mistake, sorry but I definitely did answer you. I would never not answer.Many thanks again to those who wrote to me including you Joe my very good friend God Bless Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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Joe Lyddon

480 posts in 943 days


13 days ago

I asked “How did you make those wooden hinges?”...

I don’t remember getting an answer…

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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degoose

1964 posts in 245 days


13 days ago

Happy your are back in the shop..I have no idea as to sharpening saw blades I take them to a professional… lucky for me he is only 10 minutes away thru light traffic…Keep well friend Alistair.

-- Drink once, cut twice. New website up.... lazylarrywoodworks.com.au

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yarydoc

46 posts in 35 days


13 days ago

Check this out http://www.ehow.com/video_4418673_sharpening-circular-saw-blade.html . He’s using a machine to sharpen his blades but it will show you what surfaces to sharpen. Hope this helps.

-- Ray Cody, Florence Alabama

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TopamaxSurvivor

2964 posts in 566 days


13 days ago

Glad to hear you are back in the saddle alistar!!

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

480 posts in 943 days


13 days ago

That is a Very Good link!

With some jigs, one could make-shift a way to do it in the shop!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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a1Jim

16471 posts in 468 days


13 days ago

Hey Alistair
Glad your better . I never sharpen my own blades before so I can’t help.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

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Kjuly

83 posts in 176 days


12 days ago

Good to hear that your are doing better!!
First, I would suggest that you ship them to a shop that is equipped to properly sharpen them for you.
But….If you would prefer to do them yourself, I’ll to to give you a brief outline on how it’s done.
The face of the tooth is ground first. The key to the success is to remove the same amount from each tooth. The grinding equipment that I have used, uses the face as a reference for the next step. Next grind the top of the tooth. It is very important to take the exact same amount off of each tooth.Taking different amounts from each tooth will change the height of the tooth and effect the quality of the cut.
A carbide blade is engineered so that each tooth will make a controlled cut, any variance in the tooth size will affect the cut.
You are right, the sides of the tooth are not ground during a regular sharpening.
I hope that this brief explanation helps.
Keith

Keith

-- Keith, Charlotte, MI www.julyswoodworks.com www.TheBenchDawg.com

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vonhagen

121 posts in 53 days


12 days ago

go to dmt diamond and get a diafold sharpener, they also have a diafile, i paid 27 bucks a piece for mine and i start out with 320 then 600 and first i take a black sharpie pen and color the face of the tooth as this is all you will file on and i file mine in my wood vise and only use about 5 strokes per tooth, once the sharpie mark is gone that tooth is done. also i use easy off oven cleaner to clean off all the pitch. these dmt files also work great on router bits as well. and dont ever hit any other part of the tooth except the face. i sharpen my hand saws as well but use a #5 triangle file for that and the sharpie trick works well on that to

-- blaine von hagen

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Jim Bertelson

258 posts in 55 days


12 days ago

Glad to hear you are back with us. I have a trick back, but mostly it just limits the amount of time I can stand up. But I have been where you were with the back. Ouch.

I have never considered sharpening blades since I have not been that heavy a user. Easier for me to buy new ones….......so no info from me on the subject…...I am betting no one in Alaska sharpens saw blades.

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

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sharad

702 posts in 695 days


12 days ago

Alistair glad to see you back. I was wondering whether the recent floods in Scotland had anything to do with your absence on LJ. A few days back garden tender jroot posted a forum topic on his visit to Scotland with a beautiful slide show. I very much remembered you after seeing it and was about to send you PM but lo, here you have shown your presence. Pl take care of your health to finish your pending projects. With love to all members of your family.
Sharad

-- patanjali

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notottoman

423 posts in 121 days


12 days ago

I’m with Kjuly.
Post them off to a pro to sharpen … It’s worth the effort. Even to resharpen the carbite bit.. Man what a headache… It’s a matter of getting the same bit off of all the teeth. so as to keep the balance right.
You can’t do that…. Machines today can sharpen a blade in under an hour. / Precisley. But you know that. No intention to undermine your engineering skills. It’s real easy and cheaper to send them off.
Glad you’re back.. Rest well..

-- "Even small steps makes a distance." (Shawn Phillips, musician)

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ellen35

529 posts in 323 days


12 days ago

Great to have you back (with your back better!) Alistair.
Ellen

-- Ellen on Cape Cod

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SCOTSMAN

2237 posts in 476 days


12 days ago

View stefang's profile

stefang

1635 posts in 225 days


12 days ago

Glad to hear you are better Alistair and now back online. I guess a lot of us older guys have bad backs from overdoing lifts and doing all the work by hand that they use machines for today. It’s a curse but not a killer, so we can be thankful for that at least. When it comes to blade sharpening, I have to agree that for an inexperienced person, it is probably better to send it in the post to a professional. However, I can appreciate your desire to do it yourself. If you decide to give it a try my suggestion would be to try it on an old blade you don’t really need, and see how it performs before risking your best blade. Good luck whatever you decide.

-- Mike, American in Norway

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SCOTSMAN

2237 posts in 476 days


12 days ago

Thanks guys this little machine seems to be exactly what I had in mind.Alistair

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtrAOH1FwK4&feature=related

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

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stefang

1635 posts in 225 days


12 days ago

Blaine, that sounds real interesting. In the video the professional was also doing the top of each tooth. Is that something that isn’t important or critical? I’m not being sarcastic here. Just interested in your actual experience with the results of your method. I wouldn’t mind trying this myself to save money and a trip 20 min. drive to the sharpening service.

The machine in Alistairs link looked pretty good, but in my experience good handwork can often do the job just as well if done properly, although I assume it will take longer, which is ok for me.

-- Mike, American in Norway

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vonhagen

121 posts in 53 days


12 days ago

well mike i went to the dmt website and looked into diamond sharpening stones and originaly bought diamond stones for sharpening my chisels and flatening my waterstones and saw that they sold files for sharpening cabide saw blades and router bits so i bought a set of these files and they work great. only a couple pases with the file and my blades are sharp, it says ONLY DO THE FACE OF THE TOOTH in the instructions and i know that professional saw sharpeners only hit the face and when sharpening router bits the face is only sharpened. i asked my local saw sharpening guy about flush trim router bits and the bearing being a different size than blade and he told me it didnt mater because he only hits the face of the bit. also think of a tripple chip or atb design and how hard it would be to get those angles perfect. also i have made alot of knives for moulder heads and after initial grinding of the profile i hit the back or face of the knife with a water stone and keep them sharp that way. as far as balance on the saw blade, im only takeing of microns of material and not enough to throw it out of balance. if you think about it only the face is doing the cutting and hand saws are done the same way. i used it for the first time on a festool blade for my plunge saw and was sold after the first cut.

-- blaine von hagen

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socalwood

968 posts in 495 days


12 days ago

For what it is worth we sharpen our own blades here and are VERY happy with the results . We are able to “tweak” them for particular jobs , and it really helps . Good luck-

-- rob

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

480 posts in 943 days


11 days ago

Socalwood, do you sharpen Forrest WWII type blades?

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

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socalwood

968 posts in 495 days


11 days ago

No Joe I sure don’t . I send them back to Forest . I am set up to sharpen band saw blades .

-- rob

View stefang's profile

stefang

1635 posts in 225 days


11 days ago

Thanks for the info Blaine. Also your tip about ordering from DMT direct helps a lot.

-- Mike, American in Norway

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grizzman

519 posts in 194 days


11 days ago

i was wondering where you had gotten off to..glad to se you back..and as backs go..i know that subject prety well….ive had to have twoo surgerys on mine…..and so i hope you take care of yours…and dont over do it…

-- The Grizzone

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