Finishing Palletwood Wall with Earlex 5500

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Forum topic by nogeel posted 08-25-2015 03:32 AM 691 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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66 posts in 490 days

08-25-2015 03:32 AM

Topic tags/keywords: palletwood finishing spray gun earlex danish oil hvlp

My wife and I are doing a palletwood accent wall in our house. We are going to do around 60 boards (around 90 sq ft). (1 face, both edges and ends). We do realize the wood be blotchy, which my wife thinks is fine since it is rough pallet wood already. Also, I happen to have an Earlex 5500 arriving on Wednesday. Of the stains we have tried, my wife like the look of the dark danish oil finish the best.

I have a couple of questions. Since I have so many boards does it make since to spray the stain on? 2.0 or 1.5 Needle?
Would it actually speed things up?
Can you spray Danish oil without messing up the sprayer/will it go on right? If not, would it make sense to look around for a water based stain she like to spray on?
Or do i need to quit trying to find an excuse to use my new toy?

Thanks for the help. I plan on doing a project page for this once it is done. Any tips or advice would be very much appreciated. I am new to finishing and HVLP


-- Jeff, Tennessee

8 replies so far

View tomsteve's profile


392 posts in 640 days

#1 posted 08-25-2015 11:17 AM

not sure about tip sizes between the earlex and my devilbiss finishline3 gun, but a 1.3 tip sprays stains fine in my fl3. so the 1.5 may be suitable for ya.
however,in an enclosed area, ventilation AND sealing the area off are mandatory, as is breathing protection.
if ya want to keep the blotchyness down some, ya may want to spray some mineral spirits on the wood just prior to spraying the stain. i do that on thepallet wood furniture i build and havent had a problem with blotching.
does using my spray gun speed up staining? idk, but every nook and cranny gets stain on it.
imo ya need to stop looking for an excuse and MUST use the earlex! :)

View the_other_ken's profile


21 posts in 2396 days

#2 posted 08-25-2015 12:50 PM

That oil is gonna coat everything in the room. It doesn’t dry fast enough and will float around the room until it sticks to something. A water based finish will dry in about 3 feet from the sprayer, so it will settle as a dusty powder that can be easily cleaned.

If you still want to use an oil finish, make sure you cover EVERYTHING in the room and seal it off from the rest of the house.

View nogeel's profile


66 posts in 490 days

#3 posted 08-25-2015 02:27 PM

I am going to do the boards outside since the wall isn’t up yet. That should give me an opportunity to get the edges in the ends where they won’t be as noticable with the board movement.

Tomsteve, How long can the Mineral spirits stay on there? And I assume a very light coat? If I tried batching out all 60 of the boards at once would that be fine and what if I need to spread it over two evenings? Also, just curious, but this things isn’t going to burst in to flames if a candle is near it, will it? Thanks both of your for the feedback

-- Jeff, Tennessee

View WoodNSawdust's profile


1417 posts in 597 days

#4 posted 08-25-2015 02:45 PM

I would not spray anything, except maybe water based, close to any open flame or hot heating element. If you are going to spray outside why do you need the candle? Once the finish has completely dried there should not be enough flumes to be dangerous around a candle.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View nogeel's profile


66 posts in 490 days

#5 posted 08-25-2015 02:49 PM

I was curious about the flammability a after it is installed on the walll and done.

-- Jeff, Tennessee

View tomsteve's profile


392 posts in 640 days

#6 posted 08-25-2015 11:37 PM

ive had pine and maple sit for an hour after sprayi g MS before getting stain on it. thats in a shop- no direct sun and upper 70’s. usually i lay it on medium/ heavy then use my air compressor and a rag to get rid of excess. kind of tricky with pallet wood that i keep the roughsawn look on. running a rag across it leaves strings all over that are a bugger to get off, so i dont wipe with the rags. more of a blotting just to get rid of MS that sat on areas it didnt soak in.

id suggest taking some scraps and practice on them. might want to statt with say ten of them and see how long that takes.
also, you may want to wait a week after staining before installing to let it all dry.
a suggestion:
painting tne wall a color close to the stain color is a good idea. that way, after install if/ when the wood moves it wont be as noticable.

i personally would love to see some pictures of the progress and tne finisned project. i love pallet wood furniture and projects.

View upinflames's profile


209 posts in 1583 days

#7 posted 08-25-2015 11:42 PM

Just a suggestion here, check with your homeowners insurance and tell them what you plan to do, pallet wood is HIGHLY FLAMMABLE, not to mention the crap they spray them with. A finish won’t seal any toxic chemical, and I know there will be 200 people claim they never had a problem..yada, yada, yada.

View nogeel's profile


66 posts in 490 days

#8 posted 08-26-2015 07:20 PM

My father-in-law owns an insurance agency and hasn’t expressed any concerns about it. These boards will be attached to drywall.

As far as the pallet wood goes, It looks to be domestic only pallets (no international markings and the lumber is obviously pretty new so it wouldn’t pre-date the stamps required for international). I had plenty to pick from. My understanding is these are typically throw away pallets they aren’t treated at all. (Which they were being thrown away). The boards look like a poorly planed version of what you would get at a Big Box (which is the main reason I want to stain them). I got mine at Harbor Freight and since they don’t really sell many chemicals, I’m not too worried. I am only going to use ones that don’t have stains. Though I was originally going to just power wash them I may scrub with bleach to be be a bit safer. I cut twice as many as I actually need and like i said they look like new boards. I am not an expert, but in my reading the risk should be quite low.

I am still curious about the flammability of wood with an oil based stain (that probably will have some poly or lacquer on it). Or there batter stains and top coats to use?

I will probably doing a blog or maybe a project page for this one using the Earlex for painting and for the pallet wall. Worst case it will be a document of what not to do.

-- Jeff, Tennessee

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