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Miter sled issues!!

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Forum topic by lateralus819 posted 08-20-2015 02:50 AM 853 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1352 days


08-20-2015 02:50 AM

So i made a miter sled and i thought i had it dialed in. It was cutting pretty square. But an issue arose.

I noticed when checking the pieces for square, the cut wasn’t straight from edge to edge. It had a curve to it. What the heck would cause that? The outer edges were at the right spot, but the middle of the cut bowed out.

I couldn’t for the life of me figure it out. I adjusted and re-adjusted until i finally had enough and through it against the floor.

I finally used my miter gauge and the cuts were a lot better…


13 replies so far

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2192 posts in 944 days


#1 posted 08-20-2015 12:17 PM

Only thing comes to mind is sloppy miter guides making sled wiggle through cut.

Are you using both miter slots?

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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woodchuckerNJ

1154 posts in 1097 days


#2 posted 08-20-2015 01:19 PM

+1 on rwe2156 I think he’s right, sloppy fit.

-- Jeff NJ

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Jim Finn

2409 posts in 2385 days


#3 posted 08-20-2015 02:05 PM

I agree. I made my miter sled to use both miter slots. No wiggle and straight cuts.

-- "You may have your PHD but I have my GED and my DD 214"

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WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 639 days


#4 posted 08-20-2015 02:05 PM

A few more details on how the sled was constructed would help. Type of runner(s) used? One or two runners? How much is the curve?

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1352 days


#5 posted 08-20-2015 04:03 PM

It was 11 ply Baltic birch. One fence in the back. One aluminum 3/4 runner with uhmw on one side. About 32 long.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4854 posts in 2276 days


#6 posted 08-20-2015 04:42 PM

Is the workpiece shifting during the cut?
Sometimes I clamp a small sanding block to the miter sled to act as a hold-down.
You don’t have to re-position the sanding block unless you switch to a different stock thickness.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1352 days


#7 posted 08-20-2015 09:17 PM

Im gonna remake it a little different this time. I was holding as hard as I could.

I talked with a couple guys at work. One runs a saw mill and said the blade could be heating up, which could be it as it is kind of dull and it is a rip blade but still cuts okay so I’m not sure.

Anyother suggested the piece might be moving. All i know is it was frustrating the hell out of me!!

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

2526 posts in 1740 days


#8 posted 08-20-2015 09:34 PM

Not saying it is or isn’t the issue with the curved cuts, but changing blades from a dull rip blade to a crosscut blade (or even a combo blade) would be better suited for mitering

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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bondogaposis

4027 posts in 1814 days


#9 posted 08-20-2015 11:11 PM

it as it is kind of dull and it is a rip blade but still cuts okay so I’m not sure.

That is your problem right there.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1352 days


#10 posted 08-21-2015 02:40 AM

I tried a sharp 80 tooth and it did it too, just not as bad.

I should note these are miters for a box not a frame.

View SWIDon's profile

SWIDon

12 posts in 1458 days


#11 posted 08-21-2015 03:24 AM



I tried a sharp 80 tooth and it did it too, just not as bad.

I should note these are miters for a box not a frame.

- lateralus819

So you are beveling the edge? Is the stock flat? Is the sled flat? When beveling non flat stock the cut line will not be straight.

Don

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

7172 posts in 2040 days


#12 posted 08-21-2015 04:23 AM

http://www.toolbarn.com/bessey-stc-hh50.html?gclid=CMiCirqpuccCFRCEaQodt2kI5w&ad=54707873534

I’ve been using a Bessey hold down or two and have found it to be
effective.

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

826 posts in 1193 days


#13 posted 08-21-2015 04:49 AM

I can’t help anymore than others have on the concave cut you’re getting. If you haven’t already done it, put 120 grit sandpaper down with double sided tape near the fence, not on it. It will help a lot keeping the wood from creeping if you’re using a warped or dull blade…..... Jerry (In Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

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