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Safest way to make 1/4" square strips

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Forum topic by cornhusker posted 1762 days ago 1437 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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cornhusker

2 posts in 1762 days


1762 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: small pieces of wood cut accurately concerned about losing fingers

I’m trying to figure out exactly how to SAFELY cut out a bunch of 1/4” x 1/4” x 24” or longer strips from various width and thickness boards I have. I am not concerned about waste, however I need to have the cuts fairly accurate and truly square as I will end up using them for a larger glue-up.

I haven’t been able to figure out how do this safely – - I know my fingers are going to get too close to the blade or something will end up getting shot back at me because of wood getting pinched between the fence and the blade, etc.

Could anyone lend their advice how to accomplish this?

BTW – I have an old table saw, a router (but not a router table), and a benchtop planer and am game to use any combination of these tools.


9 replies so far

View lew's profile

lew

10006 posts in 2391 days


#1 posted 1762 days ago

Push sticks and feather boards! Also, do a search here for thin rip jigs. These jigs will help you get consistant results.

If waste is not an issue, I would plane the stock to 1/4”, then cut the strips with a thin strip jig.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View drfixit's profile

drfixit

318 posts in 1780 days


#2 posted 1762 days ago

cut the strips close to the size you need, plane them down to 1/4” then rotate them 90 degrees and run threw the planner again. Perfectly sqaure 1/4” square. Just did this with some walnut to make 3/8” inch sticks.

-- I GIVE UP!!!! I've cut this @!&*!% board 3 times.... its still too short!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112026 posts in 2213 days


#3 posted 1762 days ago

I would cut your material to 1/4” then rip the stock in 1/4 strips make sure you have the small strip fall off not between the blade and the fence. You might do a search here on Ljs for thin strip jigs they are easy to make and make the operation quick and accurate

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Gary's profile

Gary

7118 posts in 2069 days


#4 posted 1762 days ago

I agree with Jim. It’s the safe way

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View frostwood's profile

frostwood

38 posts in 1823 days


#5 posted 1762 days ago

I have been using the Micro jig push “stick” for a couple of months and like the fact that it provides a cover over the blade and very secure holding of the piece.I use the micro splitter as well and this holds the cutoff piece secure as well.

-- With each new day, celebrate life. Love God with all of your heart. Share Jesus with those around you and make a positive impact on those you meet. Bob

View niki's profile

niki

426 posts in 2716 days


#6 posted 1762 days ago

Please have a look on my reply here
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/11083#reply-115892

niki

View cornhusker's profile

cornhusker

2 posts in 1762 days


#7 posted 1762 days ago

Thanks so much for all your comments – it sounds like making a “thin strips jig” is the best way to go!

Mike

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14727 posts in 2312 days


#8 posted 1762 days ago

I often make small parts using extra long stock. I make the cut without pushing all the way through the blade, then cut the part off.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View hootr's profile

hootr

183 posts in 1982 days


#9 posted 1761 days ago

i end up with a bunch of these every time i make a 3/8 rabbit for picture frames. set your fence 1/4” from blade 3/8” high for first cut, run all four sides if your stock is thick enough then reset height to 1/4” and width to size of stock less 3/8”, this lets the strip fall away from the fence, run all four sides, resquare stock and go again
as said use feather boards and push stick
the jigs are great too, this is just another idea

-- Ron, Missouri

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