Body Positioning at the Table saw

being a lefty has it’s benefits after all…

the thing with right tilt tablesaw, is that the table saw is still “left tilt constructed” and the majority of the table is on the right of the blade. so if you have the fence on the left side of the blade – you are limited with your width of cut.

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

I’m right handed so I stand as far as I can safely to the left by the saw switch.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

Yeah, absolutely, Sharon. I guess my point is that if I were designing a saw for a right-handed world, I would desing it in the mirror image of the way most saws are made today. It’s kind of the same thing with a standard circular saw…. they seem (at least to me) to be better suited to us lefties.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

Charlie..
Is there a rule that says you have to cut with the fence to the right of the blade because the rule tape is there? I stand the same as in picture 2 and when I move the fence to the other side I stand accordingly.

-- "Even small steps makes a distance." (Shawn Phillips, musician)

I tried both ways and it works fine for me, but I am both left and right hand.
Driving nails, playing ball or hockey I use both left and right hand, the only thing is circular saw it does not work well.

-- --<<<<<< I will not stop until I get it right. >>>>>>--

I am right handed. I am not sure which is safer but I do both when cutting with the fence to the right of the blade. I do not like to reach across the blade so I stand to the right of the fence (picture 2) when ever I can make the cut without compromising accuracy. I believe it to be the safest position for cutting. I have been hit with kickback when standing to the left of the blade with the fence on the right.

When cutting with the fence to the left of the blade I stand to the left of the fence.

-- Terry Roswell, L.A. (Lower Alabama) "Life is what happens to you when you are making other plans."

Charlie, it does look like your body position is a better approach but most righties would have a difficult time with a push stick in their left hand. I stand like Norm is pictured. I have had a sheet of plywood come back on me when I was cutting a 45 degree bevel in it and this taught me a healthy respect for staying out of the path the wood could take.

By the way is that a new saw that you are using? I don’t seem to remember seeing this one in any of your posts.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

A good point Charlie, you do have an advantage over us righties.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

Scott: that’s not me or my saw…. I just did a quick google image search to find photos to illustrate my remarks.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

I’m a righty and always stand like pic 2. It just seems natural. Maybe I’m a confused leftie and don’t know it

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas

I’m a righty too. I stand more like #2. I keep well out of the way of any possible kick back. When I was an apprentice, I was taught to turn on large switches left handed :-)) Save your right if it’s defective!!

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

Both of these threads got me to thinking, and I realized that my on/off switch location makes me reach my body directly in the “kickback” path of the blade to turn the saw off….meaning I stand to the left of the blade, but my switch is located on the right side of the blade. If I had an immediate need to shut the saw off, I’d be in trouble.

Thanks for posting this – I will be moving the location of my switch immediately when I get home today!

-- Life is a one lap race.

I’m the same as Gary, I stand to the right of the blade and fence using a left tilt saw. On my General TS I have to relocate the switch so its on the right side. It gets a bit tiring to lift up my left foot and hit the off switch. when its on the left side, (and I am not getting in front on that spinning blade until it comes to a complete stop). ; )

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

I’m right handed, use Norms approach. but more to the left…I have never used my fence to the left of the blade…

-- Some people have a shop so they can build things, the rest of us build things so we can have a shop...

They both work as long as your out of the path of kick back. I’m left handed but can make either work for me. Good post Charlie.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

i’m a righty ,
but stand to the left ,
and push diagonal ,
to the fence and forward .
with my right small finger hooked over the fence ,
and only let go of the work when it is way clear of the blade .

-- david ,new mexico ,allheart

I am right handed and I stand more like Norm,

Notottoman, as for a rule about using the fence on either side of the blade, there isn’t one. On some SawStops there is a tape on both the left and right hand side of the blade, I have no idea why it isnt this way on all table saws. In some cases it is safer to use the fence on the left, if you are making a mitered cut and you have a right tilt saw you want the fence on the left so the blade spin is keeping the workpiece against the fence rather than pulling it away, this is why I prefer a left tilt saw, rarely does the fence migrate over to the other side on my saw at home.

-- A hammer dangling from a wall will bang and sound like work when the wind blows the right way.

I stand that way when using a tablesaw for ripping, but I rarely use mine anymore for anything but cross/miter cuts. The switch problem is taken care of by a footswitch I picked up at HF. Might not be an option for those with 220v saws though.

-- Ooo, er.

It depends on the type of cut I am doing. I will either stand on the right side or the left side…but never directly behind or in front of the cut. I would have to say though that mostly it is to the left as my saw has 52” rails so a right side stance requires reaching over the table extension….on the left side…I can move all the way along the cut….

One recommendation though….for those shallow cuts…like #2 above….use a auxiliary fence or sled with an extension piece….that way you do not have to remove the blade guard due to the fence…I have an auxiliary fence with a 2” piece of hardwood attached – it allows the blade guard to run up over yet I can cut very slim pieces by just adding/subtracting 2” to/from the width…..just a thought.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

Kickback doesn’t come straight back. If your fence is on the right of the blade, the wood will come over the back of the saw blade and about a 22.5 degree angle to the left of the blade. In my case, right where the switch is for the saw. I guess a sheet of wood might fly up from the blade. The only thing that might shoot straight back is a cutoff from a miter gauge or something. Use a splitter or guard and align your fence properly and you won’t have to worry about it. I stand where I can control the wood the best. Depending on the piece it’s behind the blade to the left plus or minus a foot.

Right handed, but always stay right of the blade as Pic #2 shows when ripping. Stand to the left when using the miter or cross cut sled. Never inline with the blade, I have a scar on my belly to remind me. LOL

-- Dan-- Info for all @ http://www.hoistman.com

Please read what this guy has to say about kickbacks (he is an Engineers and wrights the Festool instructions for Festool USA)...
http://www.waterfront-woods.com/Articles/Tablesaw/tablesaw.htm

As you can see, there are two kinds of kickback:
1. Back-side kickback – the wood is pushed back to the operator, and if you stand behind the workpiece, “you’ll get it”....

2. Over the top kickback…and for that kind of kickback, please have a look at this video
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/910584/table_saw_kickback_demonstration/

As I can see, the work is propelled to the left side of the blade and if I’ll stand there…..

So, after you know the 2 cases of the kickback, on which side you prefer to stand ?

Personally, I stand where it’s convenient for me but….every cut is done with the riving knife in place, Short fence and the blade guard installed.

I believe the blade guard will reduce or even prevent the “Over the top kickback” by not letting the workpiece to climb on top of the blade (the guard holding bolt will be on the way even if the guard itself will shutter)...

niki

I was standing to the right when I had my accident , the piece was heavy enough to stay on the blade so that it was thrown to the right

-- Smitty!!!

reggiek, that is a good idea having an auxillary fence that allows the blade guard to ride on top of it.

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

The world just was not made for lefthanders…

- Behlen
- Waterlox Inc.

-- http://woodworker.com

Hi All
I am right handed and stand just a little to the left of the blade alignment. About 25 years ago I was making a bed for our cottage and took a bad hit in the private region, everything still works, but it hurt like hell. (3/4 plywood about 1” x 4 ft) came out like a rocket. Taught me a lot of respect. I have a small table saw in my basement and the big guy in the shed. The small one permits me to completely get out of the way by standing at the side, and I never forget the injury whenever I turn the little darlings on.
Jack
Mabey Jackass applies here.

-- Jack Keefe Shediac NB Canada

A shut off switch that can be knee operated. I’ve been going to make one similar to this on my saw.
I just have to get around to it someday. It’s easy enough to make. I’ve seen a homemade one in one of my magazines, but don’t remember which one.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

i use both positions depending on the type of cut. my TS is one of the small benchtop models with a very short distance on the table before the blade. I think i would use position #1 more frequently on a larger TS.

Depending on the size of the piece being cut, I stand either side. My general rules are don’t stand in the way of kickback, and don’t overreach the blade.

-- Trying to follow the example of the master.

I’m normally a lefty, except when using a push stick. I stand more like Norm’s position. When I’m pushing stock it’s easier for me to keep my stock pushed tight to the fence and being able to see my stock in relation to the fence at all times without trying to look over the fence. Looking at Picture #2, seems like it would be easy to push your stock away from the fence instead of keeping it tight to the fence,which is one reason for kick back. It looks like you would almost have to pull the lumber towards you and the fence. I do try to stay out of direct line of the blade.

-- John @ Myrtle Beach

I see what you mean. That does look rather awkward, I usually have my fence on the other side of #2. The only thing at risk is my “no good” hand :-))

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

Good thread, thanks for the post. Lots to think about. BTKS

I am right handed but stand like you most of the time when I am ripping (to the right… safe side of the fence.) Kickback scares the crap out of me.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.blakeweberwoodworking.com