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Forum topic by SirIrb posted 08-17-2015 12:34 AM 811 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SirIrb

1239 posts in 690 days


08-17-2015 12:34 AM

Well jocks, today i got a ton done and rebuilt, all painted and lubed. The angular wheel is absolutely amazing. Out of all the saws i have ever used i have never seen one move the angle so effortlessly. But the elevator shaft, what the heck, yall? The thing gives me two turns and seems to bind. I think i have the arbot bracket at the same place it was before i.e. ctr to ctr teeth to the evevator shafts worm gear. I take it the shaft the arbor bracket hooks to rotates freely, right? Mechanically nothing else makes sense. Help. Anyone have any suggestions? If not i will post this at owwm, i just feel more at home here. Pic of progress below.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.


14 replies so far

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 690 days


#1 posted 08-17-2015 11:06 AM

To the top for the Monday morning rush of Uni owners who have the answer.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

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JoeinGa

7472 posts in 1466 days


#2 posted 08-17-2015 04:21 PM

Sorry, I have no idea, but I’ll bump it up again for you.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

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Shadowrider

183 posts in 668 days


#3 posted 08-17-2015 09:50 PM

The elevation on mine was very sticky and difficult when I got it. All it took to fix mine was a wire brush on the teeth and worm. When I got them clean they appeared to have essentially NO wear at all. It was fixed and ready for lube so I put this on it and it was like OMG! Compared to my old craftsman contractor this is a Rolls Royce. This stuff dries to a hard wax like coating so it doesn’t attract dust like oil will.

Edit: Yours looks like mine. I played a little bit with the positioning of the rack on the worm gear and didn’t really see much difference so I just set it centered like you have. I’d look at the shaft that rotates in the housing, it sounds like it’s got something binding it. Hope you get it figured out.

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 690 days


#4 posted 08-17-2015 09:55 PM

Heck, Shadow, i had so much fun rebuilding im gonna rip it back apart. Ill take a look at the lube, thanks. I bought blasters silicon which also dries with no tack. For the angle its freaking amazing. Mad i came ro the gym while my saw needs love.

Some one sell me a 40s or 50s delta shaper. I neeed another rebuild.


The elevation on mine was very sticky and difficult when I got it. All it took to fix mine was a wire brush on the teeth and worm. When I got them clean they appeared to have essentially NO wear at all. It was fixed and ready for lube so I put this on it and it was like OMG! Compared to my old craftsman contractor this is a Rolls Royce. This stuff dries to a hard wax like coating so it doesn t attract dust like oil will.

- Shadowrider


-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

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CharleyL

196 posts in 2824 days


#5 posted 08-18-2015 02:00 AM

I have banned any lubricants that contain silicone from my wood shop, especially those in spray form. Once a drop of silicone gets on a wood surface you can’t get it all back off, and when you finish your project you will have fish eyes everywhere there was a drop of silicone lubricant. I have not found any solvent that will completely remove it from wood or metal once it gets there. If you spray it on something in your shop the fine mist will settle on everything and you will be doomed to failure when trying to apply finish to anything that you make. I lubricate the gears and ways of my Unisaw with Johnson’s Paste Wax using a tooth brush to apply it. The surface of the wax dries and doesn’t attract sawdust, and it stays in place for a long time. I also coat the cast iron of all my tools with the same wax. I re-coat them with the wax about every other week and re-lube the gears and ways about 2 times per year. Paste wax is easy to remove with paint thinner, so I just wipe down my projects after sanding and before applying any finish to remove any traces of wax and dirt that may have adhered to the wood during the construction phase.

Charley

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TheFridge

5764 posts in 945 days


#6 posted 08-18-2015 02:11 AM

I use dry lube with ptfe or something on my junk. Works like a champ. Got it from lowes.

Had the same prob whenever I tried to take any and all backlash out of the mechanism. Loosened it up a bit and have zero probe now.

That baby is lookin good.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 690 days


#7 posted 08-18-2015 11:00 AM

how did you take the backlash out? was it the collar on the elevator shaft in front of the rear trunnion mount?


I use dry lube with ptfe or something on my junk. Works like a champ. Got it from lowes.

Had the same prob whenever I tried to take any and all backlash out of the mechanism. Loosened it up a bit and have zero probe now.

That baby is lookin good.

- TheFridge


-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

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Shadowrider

183 posts in 668 days


#8 posted 09-02-2015 05:50 PM


how did you take the backlash out? was it the collar on the elevator shaft in front of the rear trunnion mount?

Had the same prob whenever I tried to take any and all backlash out of the mechanism. Loosened it up a bit and have zero probe now.

That baby is lookin good.

- TheFridge

- SirIrb

I couldn’t find the pictoral procedure that I looked at when I did mine but I found this on another forum. It’s a pretty perfect how-to and should limit the backlash as much as is possible in the design. Here ya go.


On the elevating shaft, inside the saw toward the back, there is a round stop collar with a locking set screw. First crank the blade down, and then up just a few turns, enough to tension the elevating shaft. Now check to make sure that the stop collar is seated all the way back against the rear trunnion assembly. If it is not, loosen the set screw and tap the collar toward the back of the saw, and then re-tighten. If this collar is allowed to move forward, the whole elevating shaft will move back and forth, allowing the blade arbor to jump when the saw starts. This causes the “clunk” on start up.

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TheFridge

5764 posts in 945 days


#9 posted 09-02-2015 06:07 PM

Sorry man, I forgot about you. Pretty much what he ^ said.

I played with the collar til it functioned smoothly.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 690 days


#10 posted 09-02-2015 06:35 PM

I gave it the old community college try before i buttoned it up. Worked fine. This is the reason that collar is the only one that is adjustable. Works fine now. If anything it may be a little snug.

Thanks Shadow and Fridge.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

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TheFridge

5764 posts in 945 days


#11 posted 09-05-2015 09:43 PM

No prob. Changing angle and height feels a whole lot different than changing it on a contractor saw eh?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 690 days


#12 posted 09-05-2015 11:18 PM

Oh man. I know there are some lovers of cman saws here an over on owwm. But after spending so much time on one and then rebuilding this one, forget about it.


No prob. Changing angle and height feels a whole lot different than changing it on a contractor saw eh?

- TheFridge


-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

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TheFridge

5764 posts in 945 days


#13 posted 09-15-2015 05:25 AM

I’ll cut the rails take the ext wings off a uni and use it like that before i ever get another contractor saw.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 690 days


#14 posted 09-15-2015 10:24 AM

Id put my son in the cabinet and have him spin the blade by hand of the uni before I would go back to a cman.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

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