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Forum topic by CharlieM1958 posted 08-16-2015 10:04 PM 990 views 1 time favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3678 days


08-16-2015 10:04 PM

I laminated some 1/8” thick sycamore to some 3/8” walnut for a box I’m working on, using good old Titebond II. In the course of cutting pieces to size, I sliced this off on the table saw. I was blown away that even on this paper-thin shaving, the sycamore would not separate from the walnut. Even when I tried, the walnut or the sycamore would split while the seam remained intact.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"


17 replies so far

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

7796 posts in 2763 days


#1 posted 08-16-2015 11:33 PM

yep, your right charlie, ive done plenty of glue ups and the wood will give before the seam, i imagine there is glue out there that we dont have ,except for on a commercial use that would put our glues to shame, i would like to find a test of where they have tried new glues to hide glues…

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

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PurpLev

8523 posts in 3108 days


#2 posted 08-17-2015 12:28 AM

Obviously… You need a better table saw
;)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3678 days


#3 posted 08-17-2015 12:34 AM

Sharon, it wasn’t easy setting the fence that close to the blade. :-)

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Pezking7p's profile

Pezking7p

3097 posts in 1111 days


#4 posted 08-17-2015 12:37 AM

Pretty cool, eh? No on can blame their glue for weak joints.

-- -Dan

View jeffswildwood's profile

jeffswildwood

1316 posts in 1436 days


#5 posted 08-17-2015 12:47 AM

I use titebond II exclusively. Love it! But I have always wondered what the difference is between titebond I, II, and III. Anyone?

-- We all make mistakes, the trick is to fix it in a way thats says "I meant to do that".

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3678 days


#6 posted 08-17-2015 01:06 AM

Basically, it is the level of water resistance. I is strictly for dry applications, II is water resistant, and III is supposed to hold up under outdoor use.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View Daruc's profile

Daruc

459 posts in 592 days


#7 posted 08-17-2015 03:03 AM



Sharon, it wasn t easy setting the fence that close to the blade. :-)

- CharlieM1958


I would like to see your push stick for that…. :-)

-- -

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1878 posts in 3020 days


#8 posted 08-17-2015 03:14 AM

I don’t even consider any other glue

-- Joe

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3108 days


#9 posted 08-18-2015 01:58 AM


Sharon, it wasn t easy setting the fence that close to the blade. :-)

- CharlieM1958

I would like to see your push stick for that…. :-)

- woodust

That WAS the push stick…

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

7161 posts in 2257 days


#10 posted 08-18-2015 02:13 AM

Wood glues have been amazing for a very long time.
I have no doubt at all that hot (or liquid) hide glue would render the same result.
..... not trying to start an argument but if HHG weren’t able to get the job done it wouldn’t be my go-to glue.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

2227 posts in 1906 days


#11 posted 08-18-2015 02:18 AM

I have not tried titebond II yet, it’s good to know it is as reliable as TB-I and TB-III, I have always used TB 3 for all my glue ups but have a spare bottle of TB I in case a shorter open time is needed.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3678 days


#12 posted 08-18-2015 02:22 AM

Paul, you are right, of course. My point was not really to extol the virtues of Titebond over more traditional glues (although I admit that is how it sounded). I was just pretty darned amazed that the pieces would hold together so tenaciously on such a thin sliver.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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shipwright

7161 posts in 2257 days


#13 posted 08-18-2015 07:27 AM

No problem Charlie, I’m a bit like a reformed smoker.
I still occasionally use pva but if it’s important I’m a complete convert to HHG. :-)

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees. http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

View JoeinGa's profile

JoeinGa

7472 posts in 1466 days


#14 posted 08-18-2015 01:40 PM

I used to only use TB III, and only recently switched to TB II (strictly because of cost). One difference I immediately noticed was the III had a longer working time. I find the shorter working time with II to be frustrating sometimes, but they both cure stronger than Superman in the end.

-- Perform A Random Act Of Kindness Today ... Pay It Forward

View CharlesA's profile

CharlesA

3018 posts in 1257 days


#15 posted 08-18-2015 01:46 PM

I use standard Titebond most of the time because it is cheaper and plenty strong, and use III when I need water resistance or longer open time.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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