cove mlgd on my table saw

Interesting sorry I have a PM

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

I THINK I HAVE OR HAD THE SAME PROBLEM CUZ I MADE A BOX WITH THE COVE ON THE SIDES AND IT WAS OFF TO ONE SIDE MORE THAN THE OTHER I WANTED TO GET IT IN THE MIDDLE TO HAVE AN EVEN COVE THE ONLY THING I CAN THINK OF IS TRY TO TRIM THE WIDTH SO ITS EVEN THIS IS WHAT I DID BUT I STILL CAME WITH THE UNEVEN COVE. I NEVER TRIED AFTER THIS BUT I WILL AND LET U KNOW BUT IF U FIND OUT SOMETHING BEFORE I GET BACK TO YA LET ME KNOW? icombadaniels@yahoo.com

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop,www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

I MIGHT have a solution.
Raise the blade to it’s final cutting depth.
Set the guides. Then remove one.
Lower the blade below the table.
Cut some laminate strips the EXACT width of your stock. Maybe you should do this first if you have but one table saw.
Stack 3 or 4 or 5 pieces against the remaining guide.(or what ever you need to get up to your starting depth)
Clamp the laminate on both ends.
Reinstall the previously removed guide in place, tight against the laminate
Turn on the saw and raise the blade 1/2” or so past the final depth, cutting through the laminate. I’d do this step a few times to insure the blade doesn’t contact the laminate any longer. Or, you could move the guides and widen the cut.
Rest the blade depth.
Remove the clamps from the laminate.
Make your first cove cut, then remove one piece of laminate and continue coving and removing tiill you’ve reached the depth you want.
You may have to loosen one guide to remove the laminate after each cut. But, it will go right back where it was, tight against the remaining laminate.

I hope this helps and if anyone has a better solution to this interesting problem, PLEASE speak up.

-- Gene

Raise your blade to the final height that you will be cutting to. Set your guides so that your cove will be centered for what you want. Lower your blade and start making your cuts, although they will be off center when you start by the time you get to the final height it will be where you wanted it.

In 1990 I wrote an article on how to do that with a simple jig. This is how we did it before all the jigs came on the market. It doesn’t say in the article but it was assumed that the fence was just a board clamped to the table top. That was the only way of doing it back then.

-- Mike, Westport MA.

Thanks everyone I thing Bentlyj is right I never thought about that I will give that a try Bigike you should give it try to I think that a good idea after looking more at how the blade on my saw raise it raise in ark I know that some will stay I’m crazy but it does it ark up from the back and when raise the blade is move up and forward just enough to throw off the center of blade to your fence or jig thanks

raise the blade up to final cuting position and clamp the fence at 90 degrees to the blade and i take off abot a 1/16 per pass and if you have a powerfeed it works very well. start off at the bottom and also count the number of cranks on the hand wheel from highest point to lowest point and mark the position on your saw with some tape or sharpie on hand wheel and on saw

-- blaine von hagen

sounds good everything howe said sounds kinda crazy and alot to do but mabee if i saw it on a vid it will look a little less like alot to do but and bentlyj and eastside might be on to something i’ll give it a try and post my progress or failure right now i have alot going but if i find the time in the week i will try.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop,www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

Hi Ike,
Like I said, it MIGHT be a solution. But, Bentlyj’s solution is certainly a better one and far less work. More sane, also. I wonder about the width, though. If the blade pivots, as Woodman suggests, wouldn’t it be a skewed and maybe too wide of a cove?

-- Gene