shellac problem

You can either try trans tint to get the color you like, or try the amber shellac from bulls-eye on a scrap piece of pine and see if that’s the color you’re looking for. I did a couple pine doors in the amber tinted shellac and the color was great – but it obviously depends on what you’re after. Also, if you’re using the amber tinted shellac, make sure to thin it to about a 1lb-2lb cut – it made it a lot easier to use.

-- Life is a one lap race.

I would do a lite sand on the doors with say 180 grit sand paper wipe down with naphtha then with denatured alcohol. Then you should be ready for a surface coat of dewaxed shellac. on the top coat use 3 lb cut and to help control blotch use 1 lb coat some times to coats. It’s always best to try a test coat on scraps first.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

Aniline Dyes can be dissolved in alcohol just like shellac. If you don’t mind mixing some of your own colors might be worth a shot. I have not tried it myself but it “seems” like it would work.

Dave M

-- I don't know where I'm going but I'm on my way!

Thanks, do i add the trans tint and then cut it down, or vice versa?

Dave is right but you need to strain through a paint strainer before you add the tinted alcohol before mixing it in you shellac .trans tint is different than aniline dyes which can be water, alcohol,or oil based

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

I second the amber shellac suggestion. I use amber shellac on almost everything since discovering it a year or so ago. I think it adds a lot of ‘warmth’ and brings out the grain like nothing else I have found. If I am using it on a lighter wood I usually cut it with some clear at about a 3:1 clear to amber ratio, but that is a matter of taste.

As far as the trans tints go, I usually add it to a pretty heavy cut so I can cut a smaller quantity and put on lighter coats first working my way up to full strength.

You can add dewaxed shellac on top of the shellac that you have already applied. It will bond and stick.

You can then finish as you had originally planned.

Zinnser sanding sealer is a dewaxed shellac.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

i would start over like jim mentioned, sand fine grit or alcohol wash.
i spent some time with stains and such. now i am done with stains.
imo stains are out there to mess up the average wood worker. and get him
to buy a dozen products to fix the mess.(imo)
use shellac to color not to seal. you can order several colors of dewax shellac
(shellacshak) use the shellac until you get a color you like.
or use oil, tung is lite, linseed darker. lite sand and try oil varnish to cover.
you cant get every color but you can get most basics, and the shellac
colors the wood even, forget about pore filling,sealing etc etc etc.
dyes are ok but harder to get. if you are good with spray equip. you have other
options. i use walnut dye,oil,shellac. havent used a stain for over a year.
and as always use as many sample boards as needed before you touch the project.
i use 4-10 small sample boards before any import project. color them and cover them.
some times the “clear coat” will affect the color alot. example i just did a 100 yr old
yellow pine mantle. you wouldnt belive how dark the varnish made it. it was pure blond
before the varnish and after it was a deep redish brown.

I’m all behind a1Jim.

The amber shellac would add a nice color.Keep in mind that pine always gains an amber tint over time on it’s own as well.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

This is great learning stuff. I use minwax & poly but want to experiment with aniline dyes to make the wood “pop” then what about topcoat that lasts & is tough? “Life is tough,... It’s a lot tougher if yer stupid” (John Wayne)

-- $tudie

+1 on the amber shellac. Really warms up pine. I do 3 light coats of amber, 2 light coats of clear for depth. Wait a few days rub down with 0000 and wax. With a little practice it’s easy to brush or pad it on.

Greg

note to studie i am sure many like poly but i dont.
i think we will find poly is too hard and will crack over time
10 yrs from now alot of guys will regret using it
and its a bitch to strip it.
try using oil base varnish with a little bit of tung oil.
spar varnish has too much oil(imo) its flexable but a little soft.
by mixing it your self you can give the varnish just a little flexibility and still hard
a fairly hard finish. whats the perfect ratio??? thats something i am playing with and might
not know for a couple yrs until i see how some projects wear over time.
but 1 part tung/10 parts varnish, 1 part mineral spirits or gum turpintine
is a start. for trim and door jams i am using 1part tung/1part ms/6 part varnish

Sure am glad I took the time to read this thread! I am building my workbench and I know generally workbenches don’t get a cabinet grade finish but what better project to experiment with finishes on in preparation for a kitchen cabinet remake. I looked at that can of stain I bought and said, Nope, not going to use it. Took it back to HD and brought back some amber shellac. I love that stuff!! It makes the wood gorgeous at least to me, now I have to see if the boss likes it on oak. Thanks for all the info in this thread.

Frank

-- My greatest fear is that when I die, my wife will sell all my stuff for what I told her I bought it for.

I am a huge fan of amber shellac. I took a class at Woodcraft on finishing and the instructor tried to show the simplest/foolproof finishing methods, those that have stood the test of time and are repairable. Shellac was heavily featured and after using it a few times I have found it addictive. Other finishes definitely have their place for certain uses, but I almost always turn to shellac now. It is so easy to work and works successfully with so many other finishing products.