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Forum topic by The__Dude posted 08-15-2015 01:19 PM 1002 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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The__Dude

125 posts in 523 days


08-15-2015 01:19 PM

Picked up 2 hand planes

#8 Looks like a Type II
Nothing broken, no missing parts, bottom is fairly flat.

#5 Not sure on this one, maybe type 16
Again nothing broken, no missing parts, bottom is fairly flat.

I do not have tools or knowlege to sharpen these.
Should I send the blades to someone to make them proper?
Or is this not difficult to do with an angle jig?


23 replies so far

View Tim's profile

Tim

3110 posts in 1422 days


#1 posted 08-15-2015 01:32 PM

You can learn to sharpen easily enough if you want to and you stick with it. There are a huge range of options and methods and all of them can work well. You can start with sandpaper on a flat surface like granite or float glass. It’s called scary sharp and is a cheaper way to get started and works well, but the cost of the sandpaper adds up to more in the long run. I prefer DMT or EZE-lap 3×8 diamond plates but water stones and oil stones can work great too. You can also learn to do it by hand with no jig or with a sharpening jig. You can use anything from an inexpensive eclipse style jig ($10-15) to the Veritas or Lie-Nielsen jigs.
Here’s a video on hand sharpening:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvTcReENk9g
Here’s one on modifying a cheap sharpening jig to work better:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojzzCXq5ook

There’s no need for you to send the blades out anywhere and pay the shipping when you can learn to do it yourself, except it may help one time to have a blade that has been sharpened by someone that’s very good at it so that you can learn what sharp really is. An LJ might be willing to do that for you.

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Deycart

444 posts in 1718 days


#2 posted 08-15-2015 02:34 PM

Ditto, but here is my 2 cents.

I would look into green paste (Chromium(III) oxide) for final lapping and touch ups. You will get really quick using this stuff and a bit of leather on a board. It will take your blade from ok sharp to I accidentally cut the top of my finger off extremely easily. This will save you time by reducing sharpening time and produces better results because your blade is extra sharp. You can do this quite a few times before you need to hit the stones. More if you are careful about keeping the same angle.

I recommend a system that uses stops to help keep the same angle for quick sharpening. This is more accurate and way faster. The veritas jig is an example of this, but you can make a block with different steps for quick accurate angle setting. I think I saw Chris Schwarz do this in a video.

A cumbersome system will just make you not want to sharpen.

On a side note, for some reason most people like to run though all the stones every time they sharpen. This is really pointless unless you need to get a chip out or if your bevel angle changes. Just a few seconds on your highest stone will get it back most of the time.

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The__Dude

125 posts in 523 days


#3 posted 08-15-2015 04:31 PM

The one plane edge is not square, so I think I will need a decent amount of work to square it up.

I am going to purchase the Veritas Mark II
Purchase a granite tile from Home Depot
And use some sand paper.

Maybe later I can upgrade to a diamond stone.

The #5 plane bottom looks like machining marks, like it wasn’t really ever used much.
This blade is square, and I actually planed some wood with it.

I am surprised how flat the #8 is considering the age, the out of flat is probably the plane itself, not from being overused.

I am really hoping I can use the planes to avoid purchasing a power jointer for some table top stuff I want to make.
All for a hobby, and I am not one who wants things perfect, I prefer the older look.

View JayT's profile

JayT

4772 posts in 1672 days


#4 posted 08-15-2015 05:24 PM


I am really hoping I can use the planes to avoid purchasing a power jointer for some table top stuff I want to make.

- The__Dude

Definitely possible. I don’t have a powered jointer and don’t have any desire to get one. All jointing and flattening is done with hand planes and it works well.

I use EZE-Lap plates, but any sharpening system will work, and all have pros and cons. Whether you use sandpaper, oil stones, waterstones or diamond plates, finishing with a strop like Deycart mentioned, is a real help.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

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TheFridge

5764 posts in 947 days


#5 posted 08-15-2015 05:35 PM

I have coarse through super fine diamond stones. They are great for small nicks and such but for major metal removal Id go with a pack of 150g sandpaper and wd-40 on thick granite scrap. I use a magnet to clean the paper off also.

Just my opinion.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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The__Dude

125 posts in 523 days


#6 posted 08-16-2015 03:11 AM

I was at the big box store today.
Picked up a marble door threshold. Wide and Long for the #8 plane.
Also various wet/dry sand papers 180 up to 2000 grit

Just need to order the veritas

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The__Dude

125 posts in 523 days


#7 posted 08-16-2015 02:51 PM

Mineral Spirits to clean the oil and gunk off.
Then furniture wax

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2190 posts in 941 days


#8 posted 08-16-2015 03:32 PM


I was at the big box store today.
Picked up a marble door threshold. Wide and Long for the #8 plane.
Also various wet/dry sand papers 180 up to 2000 grit

Just need to order the veritas

- The__Dude

IMO sandpaper is the best way to start out
Check that marble threshold for flatness b4 you use it
Granite might be better. They make granite blocks spec’d for flatness you can get from various WW suppliers.

I suggest you look at some sharpening videos.
You’ll see variations in techniques you have to find what works for you.
You’ll also see guys sharpen in some build videos (yeah, they all make it look easy so don’t get discouraged).
Biggest thing is – don’t go to next grit until you get a burr. This is the biggest ‘rookie’ mistake.

You can pick up a honing jig pretty cheap to start out. Something to consider before springing for the Veritas.

Like every skill, it just takes time, patience, practice and learning.

Make sure you start out by flattening the back of the iron on those planes.
Be prepared this can be a lot of work.
Good luck!!

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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rwe2156

2190 posts in 941 days


#9 posted 08-16-2015 03:39 PM

I use a magnet to clean the paper off also.

Good tip.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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The__Dude

125 posts in 523 days


#10 posted 08-16-2015 04:49 PM

Looks like the 5 is a WWII plane?
It was drenched in oil, like motor oil. Maybe why it looks so good.
Does not show much use. Still sharp…

Blade is stamped 442

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The__Dude

125 posts in 523 days


#11 posted 08-16-2015 08:59 PM

Bottom of the plane.
Ran across the marble block with 150 grit.
did not pick up any high/low points.
Looks like the original machining marks are still showing.

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The__Dude

125 posts in 523 days


#12 posted 08-16-2015 09:00 PM

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The__Dude

125 posts in 523 days


#13 posted 08-16-2015 09:03 PM

Basically cleaned, waxed and oiled.
Waiting on the guide to sharpen the blade.
This is the #5
Still working on the #8, it is really grimy

View Tim's profile

Tim

3110 posts in 1422 days


#14 posted 08-16-2015 11:35 PM

Very nice cleanup. Yes that’s a WWII plane. The blade stamping gives its production date, but I can’t remember the order. That Either means the 2nd quarter of 1944 or the 4th quarter of 1942. Either way, WWII.

View Don W's profile

Don W

17958 posts in 2028 days


#15 posted 08-17-2015 12:29 AM

Nice cleanup.

If you really have a type 2, and you have no intentions of collecting, you could probably sell it and buy a new one.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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