Mixing Butcher block oil and mineral oil

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Forum topic by cabinetmaster posted 11-01-2009 10:06 PM 5370 views 2 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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10874 posts in 2975 days

11-01-2009 10:06 PM

Topic tags/keywords: resource question finishing

Ok you butcher block finishing guys. I made a bunch of cutting boards and trivettes. I read someones blog or project where they mix Butcher block oil and mineral oil 50/50. I did this last night and put this mixture on the front sides of all my cutting boards and trivettes. This morning I went in to coat the backs of all the boards and when I got out the mixture , I found that the mixture looked like it had wax in the bottom of the jar. I mixed it all up and used it to coat the backs of all the boards. This afternoon I went in and steel wooled all the boards and got the mixture out again and had to stir it up again to get it all mixed up. Is this normal for this mixture to do this? I have never tried it before but let me tell you. The result is that these cutting baords are smoother than a babies behind when they dry. I’ll post some when I am completely done.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

10 replies so far

View degoose's profile


7193 posts in 2771 days

#1 posted 11-01-2009 10:28 PM

I recently moved over to Paraffin oil… aka white mineral oil… and where I was having a problem with Glue Lift… ie the very noticeable joint line when you ran a finger over it…none now… smooth and the grain and color pop and stay that way for a long time.. I have not Used Butcher block oil but from what I can work out it is WMO with beeswax.,.. you can make your own… another benefit is that it doesn’t contain any nut oils … no allergic reactions..
btw Jerry I can only assume that by “diluting ” the BBO with WMO the beeswax separates..also the steelwooling would make them smoother…. I personally use 320 on a ROS inbetween coats of PO
Hope this helps

-- Drink twice... and don't bother to cut... @ For lovers of all things timber...

View a1Jim's profile


115166 posts in 2994 days

#2 posted 11-01-2009 11:44 PM

will wait for updates

-- Custom furniture

View huff's profile


2828 posts in 2702 days

#3 posted 11-02-2009 01:29 AM

Thanks Jerry for the post and question and thanks Larry for some advice. I’m making some boards for Christmas and need to know what to do about the finishing.

-- John @

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10874 posts in 2975 days

#4 posted 11-02-2009 02:10 AM

Larry, it must be the wax separating out. Really takes a lot to stir it back up. The first application is what made them so smooth. I sanded the boards down to 220 and then applied the mixture. It was the smoothest first coat I have ever gotten on a cutting board. The steel wool just made it slicker when dried. I will just try some Mineral oil the next time by itself. I’m making a bunch of small bread cutting boards also. I’ll try the WMO on them.

John, the finish is the best I have ever gotten on a cutting board. They really look good with 2 coats on them.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

View poroskywood's profile


618 posts in 2781 days

#5 posted 11-02-2009 02:11 AM

Just found this site for White Mineral oil I wonder if a lighter or heavy oil is better. My thought is that a thin oil would penetrate deeper into the wood? The viscosity goes from 70 thinnest to 500 heavy. Ideas? This seems affordable also.

-- There's many a slip betwixt a cup and a lip.--Scott

View jerryw's profile


158 posts in 3333 days

#6 posted 11-02-2009 05:26 AM

i make my own board finish. melt 1 to 1 1/2 oz. of beeswax. slowly pour 16 oz. of mineral into the wax stirring constantly until it is completely mixed. i like a little more wax so i use 1 1/2 oz. i get the mineral oil at the dollar store. cheapest place.
i have had some glue lift, but only on some woods. i don’t remember which ones. i just wet sand the glue joints with 320, that takes care of the problem.
i apply the mix with a foam brush. let it soak in over night and wipe off the excess. wet sand with the oil/wax mixture if necessary.

-- jerryw-wva.

View 45acpbuilder's profile


49 posts in 2629 days

#7 posted 11-02-2009 12:12 PM

I make lots of cutting boards and use White Mineral Oil (food grade) and beeswax. Are you using the correct mineral oil, Jerry? I don’t know much about the differences, but tech grade mineral oil IS NOT food safe so it has to be somewhat (quite) different in formula from white mineral oil. I use about the same proportions as JerryW – 1 1/4 – 1 1/2 oz wax to 16 oz of white mineral oil. I throw a chunk of wax into the oil then heat it until it’s melted. Seems to mix a little quicker than adding oil to the melted wax. Maybe because everything’s hot at the same time. The 70 wt oil is what you’ll find in “butcher block oil” so it’s easy to spread and liquid enough to penetrate the grain..

-- M1911BLDR

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10874 posts in 2975 days

#8 posted 11-02-2009 01:19 PM

I’m using food grade mineral oil. I guess it just must be the wax in the Butcher block oil that is separating. It did make an excellent finish though. REally smooth and penetrated well. Where do you all find the beeswax? I might try that too.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

View Dustin Ward (aka Tearen)'s profile

Dustin Ward (aka Tearen)

176 posts in 3367 days

#9 posted 11-02-2009 02:30 PM

I get my beeswax from local farmers who have bee hives. You might will have to melt strain it (due to dead bees). Or, you can get it at hobby stores and online.

View cabinetmaster's profile


10874 posts in 2975 days

#10 posted 11-03-2009 02:32 AM

Thanks guys. I’ll try and get me some beeswax.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

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