Mixing Butcher block oil and mineral oil

I recently moved over to Paraffin oil… aka white mineral oil… and where I was having a problem with Glue Lift… ie the very noticeable joint line when you ran a finger over it…none now… smooth and the grain and color pop and stay that way for a long time.. I have not Used Butcher block oil but from what I can work out it is WMO with beeswax.,.. you can make your own… another benefit is that it doesn’t contain any nut oils … no allergic reactions..
btw Jerry I can only assume that by “diluting ” the BBO with WMO the beeswax separates..also the steelwooling would make them smoother…. I personally use 320 on a ROS inbetween coats of PO
Hope this helps
Larry

-- Drink once, cut twice. New website up.... lazylarrywoodworks.com.au

will wait for updates

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

Thanks Jerry for the post and question and thanks Larry for some advice. I’m making some boards for Christmas and need to know what to do about the finishing.

-- John @ Myrtle Beach

Larry, it must be the wax separating out. Really takes a lot to stir it back up. The first application is what made them so smooth. I sanded the boards down to 220 and then applied the mixture. It was the smoothest first coat I have ever gotten on a cutting board. The steel wool just made it slicker when dried. I will just try some Mineral oil the next time by itself. I’m making a bunch of small bread cutting boards also. I’ll try the WMO on them.

John, the finish is the best I have ever gotten on a cutting board. They really look good with 2 coats on them.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

Just found this site for White Mineral oil I wonder if a lighter or heavy oil is better. My thought is that a thin oil would penetrate deeper into the wood? The viscosity goes from 70 thinnest to 500 heavy. Ideas? This seems affordable also.

-- There's many a slip betwixt a cup and a lip.--Scott

i make my own board finish. melt 1 to 1 1/2 oz. of beeswax. slowly pour 16 oz. of mineral into the wax stirring constantly until it is completely mixed. i like a little more wax so i use 1 1/2 oz. i get the mineral oil at the dollar store. cheapest place.
i have had some glue lift, but only on some woods. i don’t remember which ones. i just wet sand the glue joints with 320, that takes care of the problem.
i apply the mix with a foam brush. let it soak in over night and wipe off the excess. wet sand with the oil/wax mixture if necessary.

-- jerryw-wva.

I make lots of cutting boards and use White Mineral Oil (food grade) and beeswax. Are you using the correct mineral oil, Jerry? I don’t know much about the differences, but tech grade mineral oil IS NOT food safe so it has to be somewhat (quite) different in formula from white mineral oil. I use about the same proportions as JerryW – 1 1/4 – 1 1/2 oz wax to 16 oz of white mineral oil. I throw a chunk of wax into the oil then heat it until it’s melted. Seems to mix a little quicker than adding oil to the melted wax. Maybe because everything’s hot at the same time. The 70 wt oil is what you’ll find in “butcher block oil” so it’s easy to spread and liquid enough to penetrate the grain..

-- M1911BLDR

I’m using food grade mineral oil. I guess it just must be the wax in the Butcher block oil that is separating. It did make an excellent finish though. REally smooth and penetrated well. Where do you all find the beeswax? I might try that too.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

I get my beeswax from local farmers who have bee hives. You might will have to melt strain it (due to dead bees). Or, you can get it at hobby stores and online.

I use the least viscous available from the source cited by Poroskywood . I buy that oil in bulk and natural beeswax in 5 pound bricks on line. Destructive testing shows good penetration in open grained woods. In earlier postings I described epoxy pre-treatment in some cases.

Thanks guys. I’ll try and get me some beeswax.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps