Is it insane to put a 15" blade on my 12" radial arm saw?

#1 your saw is not designed for that kind of use. #2 you probably want to live a little longer. Most of the time people use chain saws or beam saws( still very dangerous if you not careful)

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

Please do not do this, think safety always!! As Jim said ”#1 your saw is not designed for that kind of use. #2 you probably want to live a little longer.”

-- A hammer dangling from a wall will bang and sound like work when the wind blows the right way.

I can imagine it might burn out the motor, or the blade might not have enough power to cut through it, but from a safety standpoint, what do you think the dangers are?

If it broke the arbor and in planted the blade between your eyes would your consider you might have made a mistake. Graphic I know but is cutting these 6×6 s that important to have any chance of serious injury. You must know someone with a chain saw thats how lumber yards cut them all the time.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

It is all about torque really, a very powerful force and 15” blade can generate alot more than a 12” dado stack.

-- A hammer dangling from a wall will bang and sound like work when the wind blows the right way.

OK I’ll be the odd duck and say I don’t think it’s a big deal. Makita makes a 16 5/16 circle saw. The blade fits his arbor…its made to fit that size arbor.

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

You know how a radial arm will tend to walk thru a piece. The larger the blade, the more likely this will happen and with even more force. When that little voice in your head says “I wonder if this is safe”- it probably isn’t.

What would you do about a blade guard? This could be very dangerous.

The RPM may be wrong for that blade.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

We have a saying in tennessee for this kind of stuff, it goes somethin like this—”hey ya’ll watch this S#%t”. And is usually followed by a scream and a 911 call. Putting this question on here is that little voice in your head.

-- Duane,matt_megan@twlakes.net

What would you do about a blade guard? This could be very dangerous.

hmm I run a saw with a 42 inch blade without a guard.

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

Remember, there are no bad questions. I’ll probably just use the chainsaw, but before the Internet I’d have no way to know. Keep in mind, we’re not all master woodworkers in here, some of us are newbies who just want to make sure. For all I know it could be common to swap out blades for larger ones. The dumb thing would have been to just try it, the smart thing would be to post it in a woodworking forum to get advice first.

AMEN

-- Duane,matt_megan@twlakes.net

“I run a saw with a 42 inch blade without a guard.”
Hmmm imagine that kick back!
We all do things are own way, some of us have better health insurance than others. LOL

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

thedudeabides…I think you know what you can do or not..personally I might consider it given more information. But I have no idea what typo of experience you have so obviously I can’t suggest you do anything. Take care.

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

My dad’s RAS would choak itself and give up the ghost if it tried that, especially if it was tried in one pass. Then, my dad would kill me, if I didn’t get killed in the process.

I doubt your RAS will have the HP for it, which is why it is 12” in the first place.

If I were to try it, I would do it in two or more
passes. But at that point, you might as well use a regular blade and run two passes, top and bottom.

Come to think of it, what’s wrong with doing that? I do it all the time on my table saw.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

“Come to think of it, what’s wrong with doing that? I do it all the time on my table saw.”

I’ve got a large barn that I’m constantly repairing and upgrading as my workshop grows and takes over more space. The whole thing is full of these giant timbers, ranging from 6×6s all the way up to 10×10s, and I need straight precision cuts to ensure the barn retains its structural integrity while I repair and replace some of the beams (some are rotted and can be repaired, others replaced), or at least a more precision cut than my recip saw or chainsaw can achieve. The professional beam saws are expensive and out of my budget so I’m looking for a more affordable way to cut these with at least some accuracy.

Cutting twice while flipping is laborious because the length of the beams are quite large and can weigh a few hundred pounds a piece. I work alone in the shop so it’s a bitch flipping these suckers around. A lot more of a pain than changing to a larger blade, which is why I asked in here if it’s feasible. Sounds like it’s not an option unfortunately.

You can just use a 7 1/4’ cirular saw and do that I ve done it lots of times. If your good with a chain saw you can also get a good square cut with it if you just mark the 6×6 on three sides.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

I get where you are coming from where size is concerned, but it’s quite possible to still get accurate, seamless cuts using that method, assuming of course that your RAS blade is perpendicular to the table. That’s not always a given with an RAS, especially my dad’s old Craftsman.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

Besides things already mentioned there are a number of other factors to consider in the situation. First the number of teeth in the 15” saw; their angle of cut and set. To many teeth will make it too aggressive and hard to control. Next you need to consider that the circumference is 25% greater so it is traveling much much faster. Probably faster than the blade is rated for.
If you decide to do it I would make multiple progressive cuts and maybe even push the blade into the wood instead of pulling it. In other words do it backwards; from the outside in. You will have better control.

My suggestion is a reciprocating saw or for ULTIMATE SAFETY use a hand saw if it is only a dozen cuts. The exercise is great.

-- Les B, Oregon

You only have a dozen to cut, clamp some angle onto them as a guide and cut them with a hand saw.

-- Dan-- Info for all @ http://www.hoistman.com

I dont think my RAS would hold that much weight and make a true cut. I have a rule If I think it might not be safe I dont do it.

-- Ray Cody, Florence Alabama

jim’s right, just use the circular saw
mark with a square, cut 1 pass and flip 1/4 turn at a time

-- Ron, Missouri

If the blade doesn’t go quite deep enough, finish the cut with a hand saw.

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

you could probably make a jig to guide your circular saw on three sides and get a very accurate cut that way. Might even come in handy on some other projects. would really like to see some of these big beams, bet that barn is cool.

-- Duane,matt_megan@twlakes.net

why not buy a saw to fit the 15” blade

-- gagewestern

I have a 14” table saw but normanlly I put 12” blades on it. On rare occasions I put a 18” rip blade on it, crank it all the way up and turn the saw on…....my heart POUNDS and the sound is SCAREY always checking my underware. I’m so nervous ripping and or mitering.

I wouldnt recommend it

-- http://www.furnituremann.ca/

Too bad you did not think of this a week ago. You could have made a cool halloween video. : ^)

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

do 2 pass with the 12 inch blade
then use belt sander to clean it up.
little more work but you can get clean square ends
then again if the blade fits dosent hit the guard or the table
and you are able to feed it slow go for it.
youll always be taking so risk with stuff like that
if that saw jumps and jams in the wood you better have
a kevlar body suit because your #%%@*&^@ed

ps i forgot they make special low bite chains
for limbing and land scape ties.
if you have a 10 or 12 inch saw they only cost
30-40 i used them all day long when i used to do tie walls.
need a wood jig to kep you straight or else you will
wander. it can just be some scrap wood. i used i jig and small wood chisel
the sharp chisel gives a good line you can see. a pencil or marker
just isnt enough when the chips are a flying

Just a thought… During WW II the aircraft manufactures put larger engines and bigger props on their airplanes and when they started and ran their engines the props broke because the tips were traveling faster than the speed of sound. They had to cut the nice rounded ends of the props off and make the dia. shorter to keep the props intact. hummm… I wonder if saw blades are the way…

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

Its questions and thoughts like this that keep me in business. If you do put that blade on and attempt to use it I would call 911 in advance and have them on standby. This sounds like a Tim “the tool man” Taylor move

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

Kudos to the OP for asking rather than diving in. In these situations It is worth asking oneself “Do I really want to be featured on the Darwin Awards site?”

http://www.darwinawards.com/

-- David

You might be a redneck if you you put a 15” blade on a 12” saw. That should be all that I should have to say.

-- I like to turn

I know I wouldn’t think of it. Just way too risky. Let a lumber yard deal with that big stuff.

dont do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-- blaine von hagen

I think Jim had the best suggestion with the circle saw. It might be a good idea to figure out a way to easily turn the wood. Maybe a simple chain hoist or two to lift them and set them on saw horses and some simple way to turn them around for each cut. be creative!

-- Mike, American in Norway

a simple hand saw and a square, back in the day thats all they had and i think it would make a far better cut than a chainsaw

-- blaine von hagen

First off I’d bet your 12” RAS would be underpowered for a 15” blade. Taking a look at Delta’s 14” & 16” offerings they come with a 3HP or a 5HP motor, most 12” are in the 2HP range, some older ones even less. Second, I’d never use or even consider using my 12” RAS without a blade guard. If the blade bites and the thing comes at you that could be messy. And as was mentioned RPM could be an issue but from what I’ve seen 12”, 14”, & 16” all spin at 3450. But I still just can’t get past the no blade guard.

-- -Curt, Milwaukee, WI

PROS to putting a 15” diameter blade onto a 12” radial arm saw:

Well I was able to make the cut in one pass

CONS to putting a 15” diameter blade onto a 12” radial arm saw:

” Mr/Mrs EMS how long do you think it will take to pry that blade out of my chest?”

“Neighbor I”m sorry about launching that 6×6 timber into your house.”

“Honey can you help me find my hand, I’ve seem to have misplaced it, last I remember it was holding down a 6×6”

And lastly, “Other than that Mrs Lincoln, how was the play?”

Sorry just the volunteer firefighter in me, I’d rather you be SAFE than in the hospital!

-- James

ok guys, he is just the one to ask what we have all wondered if not tried. whats the difference in putting the 15inch blade on a 15 inch saw or a 12 inch saw? Heck, let us know how it goes. Now, we would question you (appluad later) if you wanted to to put, say a v6 on the saw running the oversize blade. Ive got 36 inch tires on my truck, which came with 32 inch tires and im fine. Kids are wearing their clothes 3 times too big too…

Given that the blade was made for that size arbor and the rpms are the same (3450)on the 12 inch motor and the 15 inch motor…other than the ASSUMED fact that the guard wont fit over the 15 inch blade..can one of the engineering experts explain to me why the 15 inch blade is going to some how break the arbor and kill the operator?
I can appreciate the caution and orthodoxy in relation to machinery operation…but let’s be real.

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

the rpm on the 15 inch blade would never be that high and at that rim speed the blade could break up and send shrapnel into the operator, i will have to look up what dewalt had for rpm on thier 16 inch radial saw but i do know that 15 inch blades are for a hitachi if im not mistaken and they run at a low rpm, on slide table saws you can run blades from 10 to 16 inch but you must lower the rim speed by changing pully configuration. bottom line is knowing max rpm for the blade the kerf size, and the quality of the blade. i wouldent put a cheap thin kerf blade that has not been harmonicly balanced on a saw motor with undersized bearings there is a real danger of the blade self destructing

-- blaine von hagen

http://justsawblades.com/systimatic/terminology.htm
typical maximum rpm for a 15” blade is 5000 rpm

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

ok dan i did look it up and the rpm is ok but there is a reason for this saw to only run a 12 inch blade and i would think it may have something to do with the bearing size and overall strenght of the machine its self. i have never had a blade come apart on me but i have had shaper carbide come apart and i hit the deck as shrapnel was flying lucky for me the feed motor took most of the carbide. the problem was max rpm was 6000 on the cutter and was running at 10000 rpm. after that happened to me i am very leary of what i chuck up onto any arbor and certainly will not chuck anything not intended for that machine. i guess you could get away with doing one time but then the dudeabides who wrote this post may just think, hey why not leave it on there and make a custom gaurd. and why not just make all my machines handle bigger tooling. just not safe period

-- blaine von hagen

Well you know how us “stupid rednecks” are. ...always posting stuff when we don’t know what we’re talking about.

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

Why not try a large sled on a band saw? As long as you could support it on the side and had enough room, you could cross-cut that relatively safely.

-- He said wood...http://hickbyassociation.blogspot.com/

why not a hand saw. why does a power tool have to be used? there is only 6 beams to cut

-- blaine von hagen

personally I would use a 16 inch beam saw but…that wasn’t the question.

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

a real redneck would get out the 48 inch stille and stack cut it in one pass

-- blaine von hagen

thats what God invented handsaws for !

-- david ,new mexico ,allheart

amen

-- blaine von hagen

I always use circular saw, cut all 4 sides and then hand saw the middle…
By the time people make jigs or get a different saw out you’d have it done already.
KISS, abide by it.

-- Tom.

yes it’s often alot easier to change a problem than solve it. But then maybe the change is the solution. mmmm coffee!

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

Buy a 15” saw to fit your 15” blade.

-- I like to turn

good ol hand saw,the way they used to do it.can be cut be cut straighter then you think.I cut large timbers like this all the time.

-- eric post, tallahassee FL

If you only have a dozen cuts to make go rent the propper tool for the job and pay a helper for a few hours work. SAFTY FIRST AND FOREMOST!!!

-- I work to much to turn as much as I would like to.

Here you go http://sacramento.craigslist.org/tls/1462240553.html

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov