1st post with a question

I think you will be quite happy with a poly finish. I suggest getting the one formulated for use on floors. It is harder than the normal water based poly. I think a minimum of 3 coats is needed. I did 4 on our dining room table. Make sure the Danish oil dries for at least 10 days or so. However, for a natural finish it is probably not needed on Maple and you will find not much soaks into the hard maple surface anyway.
Brushing water base poly work well if you use a soft tip brush (a good synthetic bristle one works) and watch out for drips. They are easy to spot because of the milky color of the wet poly. If you find some after they dry I shave them with a razor blade and then sand smooth. I find water based poly is best brushed on at a temperature between 65 and 75 degrees. Cooler it dries slower and collects more dust and sometimes if too cool dries a bit cloudy. Warmer and it dries too fast and leaves brush marks. Between each coat (dry overnight) sand lightly with a 320 or 400 grit sand paper to remove dust nibs and possible brush marks. I usually finish by rubbing it out the last coat (dried for at least 72+ hours) with carnauba paste wax and a white 3M pad (non abrasive). Then buff the dried wax to a shine. If you don’t want a shine use OOOO steel wool instead of the 3M pad.

All that being explained you can also use a wipe on poly but it goes on thinner and will probably take 5 to 6 coats but need less sanding between coats….every 2nd or 3rd….and additional coats can be applied every few hours if there is a hurry.

-- Les B, Oregon

Excellent explanation, Les! Couldn’t said it better myself. I think you covered all the bases.

Do you still have the ‘65 Chevelle Super Sport? With the bench seat, how many girls did you pick up? lol lol.

-- Remember--- one good turn-- gets most of the blanket!!!!

Well done Les

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

I have been schooled in the use of poly, thanks, Kolmar’s question answered some of mine. Good lesson LesB!!
Welcome to LJ’s, Kolmar

Wow. Les gave you all the info you need . Go for it.

-- Jerry--A man can never have enough tools or clamps

I always use the water based poly on user pieces, once cured it is super durable and water proof.

-- Dan-- Info for all @ http://www.hoistman.com

Thanks for your appreciative remarks LJs. I have had plenty of practice and my share of errors and “re-does” using poly finishes.

-- Les B, Oregon

Great thanks for the info! i will be hopefully able to tackle this next week while I am off from work for the week. i think I will try it without the Danish Oil and just do the straight water poly. I’ll flip over a chair and sand it down and test it and see how the color looks. If by chance it does not look right will a undercoat of dewaxed shellac be better then the danish oil. I can’t see the wife parking outside for all this time so basically the oil is out.

-- Kolmar