Thicker saw blade

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Forum topic by Evangogh posted 08-12-2015 02:24 AM 867 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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129 posts in 1329 days

08-12-2015 02:24 AM

I’m wanting to start making some tongue and groove stuff, and heard someone mention a “dido” blade? I’m sure I’m remembering it wrong, but apparently it’s just like any other table or chop saw blade, just a lot thicker.

Am I imagining all of this? If not, where the deuce can I find one and what is it called?? XD

-- Turn on, brothers and sisters!!!

11 replies so far

View TheFridge's profile


9468 posts in 1485 days

#1 posted 08-12-2015 02:28 AM

Search “dado blades”

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View waho6o9's profile


8191 posts in 2576 days

#2 posted 08-12-2015 02:28 AM

Dado blades

View Evangogh's profile


129 posts in 1329 days

#3 posted 08-12-2015 02:31 AM

Can they be used on basically any table saw or something?

-- Turn on, brothers and sisters!!!

View Ghidrah's profile


667 posts in 1221 days

#4 posted 08-12-2015 02:42 AM

Depends on the type, dado set or wobble blade. cheaper wobble blades, single blade likely works on all TSs, portable, contractor and shop. Dado sets will work on most TSs but with some contractor and portable saws you are probably limited to less than the full ability of the set by the length of the arbor.

-- I meant to do that!

View Evangogh's profile


129 posts in 1329 days

#5 posted 08-12-2015 02:46 AM

I have heard of some people doubling up their regular blades… I’m going to go out on a limb and saw that is a huge no-no?

-- Turn on, brothers and sisters!!!

View bandit571's profile


20004 posts in 2682 days

#6 posted 08-12-2015 03:04 AM

Not the best way to do it, but…..I have been known to gang a few Circular saw type blades up. Used it while the dado set was out being sharpened up. I’d stack a rip blade between two crosscut blades, making sure the teeth didn’t get tangled up.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Cliff 's profile


1220 posts in 1723 days

#7 posted 08-12-2015 10:46 AM

Evan, Extreme caution required. I have never used a Daddo Blade on my Table Saw as the Arbor Shaft is not long enough to Accommodate a thick blade such as a Daddo and still leave enough thread on the shaft to fit the blade washer and the holding nut. A Daddo is a wonderful tool, but make sure your Saw can be fitted with one safely. Regards,


-- Cliff Australia : Snoring is good. It blows away all the Sawdust.

View distrbd's profile


2252 posts in 2445 days

#8 posted 08-12-2015 01:58 PM

You could use a router with a spiral/straight bit as an alternative to a table saw/Dado blade,it would be safer to use the router in a router table to cut the groove specially if it is your first time .

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View WoodNSawdust's profile


1417 posts in 1175 days

#9 posted 08-12-2015 02:34 PM

On the router front, there are companies that sell matched tongue and groove bit sets. Here is the one I use. It is more expensive, but the advantage is when I set the height of one bit I can switch back and forth with having to adjust the height. You will need a powerful router to do much.

My first dado blade was the wobble type. I found that it did not produce a quality cut. So I switched to both a 6” and an 8” stack dado set. Both produce much better quality cuts. The larger diameter dado set, width of the dado, or depth requires a more powerful saw.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View Nubsnstubs's profile


1287 posts in 1729 days

#10 posted 08-12-2015 02:38 PM

Years ago when I had my cabinet shop, I had two specialty carbide tipped blades made. One was a flat top 24 tooth 8” x 3/16” wide blade for cutting slots or grooves into the edge of a 1/2” thick board. The plate is actually .125” or 1/8”. I still have it, and use it when I make grooves in drawer sides and backs for drawer bottoms. It takes 2 passes to make the 1/4” groove mdf core sheet goods.
The other blade is a 3/8” x 10” dovetail blade with a plate thickness of .250” or 1/4”. It’s used for cutting the male sliding dovetail on drawer sides. Both blades proved their worth after the first use. When you have a business that requires specialty accessories to get the job done quicker and more accurately, you would be foolish not to purchase it unless the price is way out of line. The downside on this blade is waiting for it to wind down to a stop which seems to take forever. If I could remember prices, I would relay them, but that was back in the mid ‘80’s.

If you know of any saw sharpening services, you can get them to make up any configuration of cutting instrument you desire if it will fit your saw and isn’t a danger to you or anyone else. ............. Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View rwe2156's profile


2925 posts in 1479 days

#11 posted 08-12-2015 03:37 PM

I suggest you buy a good quality dado set and learn to use it. There are 6” and 8” sets available. Freud make a good entry level set.

Never use a wobble type they are horrible.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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