Picked up a Delta Unisaw 34-802f looking for some input

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Forum topic by redmosquito1 posted 08-09-2015 03:26 AM 2401 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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26 posts in 1780 days

08-09-2015 03:26 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

Hello all,
Cruising my local C-list the other day and came across a 1987 3hp Delta Unisaw within 10 minutes of me. It was listed at $600 and came with a 52” unifence and looked pretty much mint for its age. Got a hold of the owner thursday and struck a deal for $450 if I picked it up that day which I did just that and he also threw in a 6” dado stack in a nice wooden box and the original miter gauge. I forgot to ask about the arbor wrench though, so I’ll have to come up with that anyone know the wrench size? The saw was his everyday saw at his cabinet shop, small shop in his pole barn so it got used but it was his money maker so he took care of it. New bearings were put in within the last couple of years, no rust anywhere on the saw, no play in the arbor and belts looked good.

The 52” fence is to big for my shop though, did delta ever make a smaller unifence? if so I’ll keep my eye out for one. I would like to use the unifence as it seems to be very versatile and accurate, if I have to I have a 26” vega fence on my craftsman saw I could use just would rather not.

And my other question is he had made a motor cover out of ply wood and sealed it with duct tape, over the years it did what duct tape does and dry out and left a residue on the saw. Some weird green foamy like substance has been dripped down the back side and there is some other substance on the side. Looks like maybe a poly with saw dust embeded in it? I don’t know. Any tips on cleaning up the paint? I don’t have 220V wired into the shop yet so I have some time before it goes down there and I’d like to clean this saw up before it goes. So any tips?

Also, when I look at parts and what not I have been seeing old style vs new style designation, what was the cutoff for each?

Thanks, I’m super excited to be able to cut 4/4 hickory which bogged down my craftsmen saw so bad it was popping the breaker.

8 replies so far

View CharleyL's profile


223 posts in 3542 days

#1 posted 08-09-2015 04:17 AM

Congratulations! You have now upgraded your cutting accuracy about ten fold. Don’t cut the Unifence rail. Advertise to swap the long rail for a short one and you will find someone to swap with. My 52” Unifence is really too big for my shop too, but I’m not changing or cutting it. I’ve positioned the saw so the end of the fence table is against the wall between 2 doors. Cutting 4/4 Hickory will be like cutting balsa wood on it if you have a good sharp blade. I suggest a Woodworker II. You are probably going to have to figure out what is spilled on the cabinet before you will know what will remove it. I didn’t get a motor cover with my saw, but found a molded plastic one on the internet and bought it. The saw is much quieter with it snapped in place. It’s got foam weatherstrip on the edge, but doesn’t seal perfectly anyway. I don’t have a dust collector connected, so it doesn’t really matter if it’s not a perfect fit. It was worth it for the noise reduction. Get yourself a Wixey DRO and you will be able to repeat cuts within .003”


View redmosquito1's profile


26 posts in 1780 days

#2 posted 08-09-2015 05:36 AM

Yeah I wont cut the current rail, I don’t want to trade it either. We plan to move before the end of the year and my requirement for doing so is a pole barn to set up shop. At that point I’ll be putting the 52” fence back on, until then I really think I’ll be using the vega fence on it. The vega fence is nice and accurate but I want to play with the unifence. Unless I find a unifence rail that is.

I just put a woodworker II thin kerf on the craftsmen so I wouldn’t have any issues cutting the hickory, it helped but not a lot.

There is a restoration video series on youtube that shows them sanding the cabinet with 400 wet and dry paper I was thinking I might give that a try.

View TheFridge's profile


10515 posts in 1664 days

#3 posted 08-09-2015 05:49 AM

I bought a Rubbermaid tub and screwed it to the cabinet.

Mineral spirits should take off the duct tape residue.

Use a dry lube on trunnions and gears.

I wouldn’t throw away a thin kerf but a full kerf ww2 is awesome. Especially when you need to take a hair off a board and the thin kerf might flex a lil bit.

And that is an awesome deal.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View redmosquito1's profile


26 posts in 1780 days

#4 posted 08-09-2015 06:34 AM

Yeah I’m very excited to get the saw up and running and put a full kerf blade on it and do some cutting. I’d post pics but its all apart at the moment so it was easier to move/clean etc.

View toolie's profile


2147 posts in 2806 days

#5 posted 08-09-2015 12:53 PM

Congrats on the saw. Just curious…left or right tilt?

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5143 posts in 2671 days

#6 posted 08-09-2015 12:58 PM

You really scored on that, congrats. Seems like i remember someone selling reproduction motor covers (still don’t understand how those things get “lost”) on e bay….or somewhere. As for the fence raill, this may not help but maybe you can shift it left a little and still use it in your tight quarters(?). Regradless: congrats, and YOU SuCK! (BTW, go full kerf blades….no lack of power with that saw.)

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View CharleyL's profile


223 posts in 3542 days

#7 posted 08-09-2015 01:33 PM

I use paste wax to lubricate the ways and gears in addition to using it on the top. I apply it to the ways and gears with a tooth rush. The surface of it dries, so it resists sawdust build-up. On the top it resists rust, makes boards slide much easier, and can be renewed with just a newapplication. Whatever you do AVOID SILICONE containing lubricants. I have banned silicone lubricants from my shop, because when it gets on a surface it is nearly impossible to get off, and if any gets on a piece of wood your finish will develop fish eyes wherever the silicone is.

When you begin using the Unifence you will find it to be easily adaptable to different cutting processes. You can easily adjust it for fence length or turn it on it’s side for a low fence to aid in cutting laminate, etc. and flip it to the other side of the Unifence body to use on the opposite side of the blade. Peach Tree sells a Miter-T-Fence extrusion in several lengths that attach to the Unifence body the same way as the original Unifence extrusion. It offers even more flexibility because with a UHMW wear strip insert and the extrusion has T slots to allow attaching feather boards and fixtures that aren’t easily attached to the original Unifence extrusion. They offer a 16” length of this fence that makes a great material stop to use when cross cutting with the miter gauge so you can cut many short pieces of identical length. I use both the original Unifence extrusion and these Miter-T-Fence extrusions depending on which will satisfy my needs for a particular cut. Each fence has unique advantages.


View hairy's profile


2780 posts in 3710 days

#8 posted 08-09-2015 08:55 PM

I have a 34-802 Unisaw. You got a very good deal. Mine has a 52” Biesemeyer , I wish it was 30”. Maybe someday.

I use a standard 7/8” wrench to change the blade. Left hand thread. I jam a scrap of plywood into the blade when changing.

-- My reality check bounced...

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