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Forum topic by edwood1975 posted 08-06-2015 12:40 PM 734 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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edwood1975

492 posts in 805 days


08-06-2015 12:40 PM

Hi All,

I’m in the process of making a scrap lumber cart out of 3/4” plywood the overall dimensions is 48”Lx 24”W x24”H, I am thinking of using pocket hole screws to join the back to the sides, do you think this method is strong enough… Also there are bin devises also 3/4” but MDF .. I was going to use the same method here as well

I’ve used pocket joinery before but this is by far the biggest project using this system…

I can’t use rabbit and dado joinery as my router is out of commission and I don’t want screws showing outside on the face of the cart…

Any tips or advice is welcome

A picture of what I’m trying to build is below….

-- Ed


6 replies so far

View Roger's profile

Roger

19867 posts in 2265 days


#1 posted 08-06-2015 09:40 PM

I used pocket hole joinery in this plywood rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/100618. It’s made from osb plywood and it’s full as you can see. I wouldn’t use mdf in my opinion.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

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edwood1975

492 posts in 805 days


#2 posted 08-06-2015 10:14 PM



I used pocket hole joinery in this plywood rack: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/100618. It s made from osb plywood and it s full as you can see. I wouldn t use mdf in my opinion.

- Roger


Hi Roger,
Sorry I wasn’t clear the whole is made from 3/4” plywood, only the cubby dividers are MDF… Thanks for the info

-- Ed

View MNclone's profile

MNclone

187 posts in 1045 days


#3 posted 08-06-2015 10:30 PM

It is going to be a lot stronger if you just run the screws through the back. Pocket hole screws work well if you don’t want screw heads on the outside. In this application, it seems unnecessary.

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1372 posts in 1491 days


#4 posted 08-06-2015 11:36 PM

Your router is on the fritz… what about your table saw? I did my sanding cart all with tongue/groove & fully housed dado’s with my Freud Dado set. 100% glue & clamped, no screws.
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/171426

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

View greg48's profile

greg48

588 posts in 2219 days


#5 posted 08-07-2015 06:24 AM

Ed, I would concur with two of the above comments:
Roger is right on with the MDF, it tends to split when screws are driven into the edges.
MNclone is correct on the strength and simplicity if the screws are driven straight through.

I f you don’t wish to see the screws on the finished project, try countersinking the heads and plug the screw heads. The plugs would have to be cut from solid wood (not Ply) so they would probably be noticeable unless you paint the project.

When you get ahead ($$$$), a dadoed blade for your TS is a nice addition for joining casework.

-- Greg, No. Cal. - "Gaudete in Domino Semper"

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2190 posts in 942 days


#6 posted 08-08-2015 02:55 PM


Hi All,

I am thinking of using pocket hole screws to join the back to the sides, do you think this method is strong enough… Also there are bin devises also 3/4” but MDF .. I was going to use the same method here as well

I ve used pocket joinery before but this is by far the biggest project using this system.


I wouldn’t use pocket holes in plywood, especially something like this where there are a lot of stresses.

I can t use rabbit and dado joinery as my router is out of commission and I don t want screws showing outside on the face of the cart…
That’s your best joint. Use your table saw. It’s faster anyway.

Don’t use flat head screws they tend split the plywood. Use plenty of glue.
Remember this is a construction project strength is the first consideration.
Don’t let a visible screw head bother you.

Good luck.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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