« back to Woodworking Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum
| Forum topic by bues0022 | posted 37 days ago | 311 views | 0 times favorited | 10 replies | ![]() |
![]() |
|
37 days ago |
I’ve been slowly working on completely overhauling my craftsman table saw. I decided to take the housing off of the motor to get all the accumulated sawdust out of it. When I did this, I found several of the wires had breaks in the insulation so I’ve been splicing in new wires. I am now a little concerned that I may have gotten something goofed up. Does anyone have extensive experience with electrical motors that can help me get this all right? I’ll take a picture here in a minute of what I have going on. I just don’t totally understand how all of the electrical works with the wire windings and the starter. Thanks. -- - Ryan -- Round Lake, IL |
|
37 days ago |
So here’s how I think the wiring works…..Power comes in through #1, goes through switch #2, through wire #3. #4 I think is some kind of a breaker. Power then goes through $5 to the common hot terminal. When the motor is first turned on, power goes through #6 to #7. I’m not entirely sure what #7 is. Some kind of a momentary switch to only allow power to go through #8 to the starter (?) #9 when the motor is first turned on? Then power goes through #10 to the windings. This is where I get really confused. Numbers 11, 14, and 15 all come out of the windings (it looks like), but why three? And why are only two of them spliced in to round wire #16, while #11 goes to the common ground terminal all by itself? I’m thinking it has to do with how the brushless AC motor works, and needing X number of poles in order to keep the motor spinning and not stalling out. In any case, After the motor is on, switch #7 goes back to it’s NO (normally open) state, and power goes then through #13 to the windings, and eventually out through #’s 11,14,and 15, then out through ground wire #12. Does all of that make sense to you? I’d really like this motor to work, but I won’t know for several days because the paint is still drying on the motor housing out in the garage so I can’t put it back together. -- - Ryan -- Round Lake, IL |
|
37 days ago |
It’s kinda hard to make out what is going on with the windings, so hopefully this picture helps. -- - Ryan -- Round Lake, IL |
|
37 days ago |
i try to get pic. be for i take it apart.hope you get it back together, good luck -- gagewestern |
|
37 days ago |
Looks like a job for the local motor repair shop. |
|
37 days ago |
I took pictures before I started, but the problem is that I guess I didn’t take enough pictures, because I’m still confused. Hopefully I don’t need to bring it in to a shop to fix up! -- - Ryan -- Round Lake, IL |
|
37 days ago |
What size is the motor? Do you have a model # available? I think I can find a diagram for you -- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com |
|
37 days ago |
Big job -- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture ,maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com |
|
37 days ago |
Wow….that is one jumbled mess. I work with electric motors one a daily basis, everything from 1/15 HP on up to 10HP+. If I had one in the state yours is in I would replace with new BUT I’ll take a crack at it….. From what I can see #4 looks like it could be your reset button/thermal overload. #7….Start relay perhaps? Kind of hard to tell. #9 is more than likely your capacitor. I realize that just knowing what these components are is not going to have this motor back among the living, but if you do happen to get a wiring schematic for it then knowing what is what and how it fits in relation to the assembly could help….after that it’s like reading a road map. In all do honesty, rebuilding an electric motor is not a typical DIY project but if you got the gumption then I say go for it. |
|
36 days ago |
I’ll have to try to get the numbers off of the motor later tonight when I get home. However, I talked to a friend of mine who’s an alayrical engineer and now I feel much more confident with my rewiring job. Number 9 is a starting capacitor that is out of phase from the other windings. It gets a little complex in theory, but that part is wired right. Now the reason #11 and#13 aren’t tied together (and would have saved the manufacturer lots of money in extra wire) is because if they are switched the direction of the motor rotation will change. Overall, I see that this needed to be done because it was s fire hazard before. If this doesn’t work, then I’ll have to get a new motor, which isn’t a bad thing. But, this was a cheap try to fix my old motor first. If I find a different (more powerful) motor for cheap at some time then I haven’t wasted any money on this one. -- - Ryan -- Round Lake, IL |
|
22 days ago |
IT WORKS!!!!!!!!! I just got done FINALLY putting it back together tonight (as my wife and I are trying to head out for dinner with friends, haha). At first it didn’t want to go. I could hear a hum as it tried to start, then my breaker tripped. I called my Electrical Engineer friend, and he walked me through testing some things. I had wire #5 connected to the wrong common post. Now she hums like brand new. Tomorrow I’ll be putting it back on the saw! -- - Ryan -- Round Lake, IL |
|
You must be signed in to reply.
|
|
| Forum | Topics |
|---|---|
Woodworking Skill Share
|
2938 |
Woodworking Tools, Hardware and Accessories
|
3970 |
Safety in the Woodworking Shop
|
260 |
Designing Woodworking Projects
|
958 |
Sweating for Bucks Through Woodworking
|
226 |
Woodworking Trade & Swap
|
624 |
Coffee Lounge
|
2404 |
LumberJocks.com Site Feedback
|
525 |





















