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Wiring diagram for table saw motor needed

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Forum topic by bues0022 posted 10-23-2009 06:36 PM 4998 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bues0022

216 posts in 1914 days


10-23-2009 06:36 PM

I’ve been slowly working on completely overhauling my craftsman table saw. I decided to take the housing off of the motor to get all the accumulated sawdust out of it. When I did this, I found several of the wires had breaks in the insulation so I’ve been splicing in new wires. I am now a little concerned that I may have gotten something goofed up. Does anyone have extensive experience with electrical motors that can help me get this all right? I’ll take a picture here in a minute of what I have going on. I just don’t totally understand how all of the electrical works with the wire windings and the starter. Thanks.

-- Ryan -- Maple Grove, MN


10 replies so far

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bues0022

216 posts in 1914 days


#1 posted 10-23-2009 07:17 PM

motor wiring

So here’s how I think the wiring works…..Power comes in through #1, goes through switch #2, through wire #3. #4 I think is some kind of a breaker. Power then goes through $5 to the common hot terminal. When the motor is first turned on, power goes through #6 to #7. I’m not entirely sure what #7 is. Some kind of a momentary switch to only allow power to go through #8 to the starter (?) #9 when the motor is first turned on? Then power goes through #10 to the windings. This is where I get really confused. Numbers 11, 14, and 15 all come out of the windings (it looks like), but why three? And why are only two of them spliced in to round wire #16, while #11 goes to the common ground terminal all by itself? I’m thinking it has to do with how the brushless AC motor works, and needing X number of poles in order to keep the motor spinning and not stalling out. In any case, After the motor is on, switch #7 goes back to it’s NO (normally open) state, and power goes then through #13 to the windings, and eventually out through #’s 11,14,and 15, then out through ground wire #12.

Does all of that make sense to you? I’d really like this motor to work, but I won’t know for several days because the paint is still drying on the motor housing out in the garage so I can’t put it back together.

-- Ryan -- Maple Grove, MN

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bues0022

216 posts in 1914 days


#2 posted 10-23-2009 07:19 PM

close-up of wiring leaving windings

It’s kinda hard to make out what is going on with the windings, so hopefully this picture helps.

-- Ryan -- Maple Grove, MN

View gagewestern's profile

gagewestern

303 posts in 2104 days


#3 posted 10-23-2009 07:22 PM

i try to get pic. be for i take it apart.hope you get it back together, good luck

-- gagewestern

View lew's profile

lew

10166 posts in 2509 days


#4 posted 10-23-2009 07:57 PM

Looks like a job for the local motor repair shop.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

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bues0022

216 posts in 1914 days


#5 posted 10-23-2009 08:33 PM

I took pictures before I started, but the problem is that I guess I didn’t take enough pictures, because I’m still confused. Hopefully I don’t need to bring it in to a shop to fix up!

-- Ryan -- Maple Grove, MN

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1602 posts in 2216 days


#6 posted 10-23-2009 08:51 PM

What size is the motor? Do you have a model # available? I think I can find a diagram for you

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

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a1Jim

112939 posts in 2331 days


#7 posted 10-24-2009 03:30 AM

Big job

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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MarkwithaK

370 posts in 1932 days


#8 posted 10-24-2009 10:21 AM

Wow….that is one jumbled mess. I work with electric motors one a daily basis, everything from 1/15 HP on up to 10HP+. If I had one in the state yours is in I would replace with new BUT I’ll take a crack at it…..

From what I can see #4 looks like it could be your reset button/thermal overload. #7….Start relay perhaps? Kind of hard to tell. #9 is more than likely your capacitor.

I realize that just knowing what these components are is not going to have this motor back among the living, but if you do happen to get a wiring schematic for it then knowing what is what and how it fits in relation to the assembly could help….after that it’s like reading a road map. In all do honesty, rebuilding an electric motor is not a typical DIY project but if you got the gumption then I say go for it.

-- If at first you don't succeed then maybe skydiving isn't for you.

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bues0022

216 posts in 1914 days


#9 posted 10-24-2009 11:57 PM

I’ll have to try to get the numbers off of the motor later tonight when I get home. However, I talked to a friend of mine who’s an alayrical engineer and now I feel much more confident with my rewiring job. Number 9 is a starting capacitor that is out of phase from the other windings. It gets a little complex in theory, but that part is wired right. Now the reason #11 and#13 aren’t tied together (and would have saved the manufacturer lots of money in extra wire) is because if they are switched the direction of the motor rotation will change.

Overall, I see that this needed to be done because it was s fire hazard before. If this doesn’t work, then I’ll have to get a new motor, which isn’t a bad thing. But, this was a cheap try to fix my old motor first. If I find a different (more powerful) motor for cheap at some time then I haven’t wasted any money on this one.

-- Ryan -- Maple Grove, MN

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bues0022

216 posts in 1914 days


#10 posted 11-08-2009 02:44 AM

IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!

I just got done FINALLY putting it back together tonight (as my wife and I are trying to head out for dinner with friends, haha). At first it didn’t want to go. I could hear a hum as it tried to start, then my breaker tripped. I called my Electrical Engineer friend, and he walked me through testing some things. I had wire #5 connected to the wrong common post. Now she hums like brand new. Tomorrow I’ll be putting it back on the saw!

-- Ryan -- Maple Grove, MN

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