How to cut hard maple

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Forum topic by woodman71 posted 10-22-2009 03:22 AM 10569 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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162 posts in 3349 days

10-22-2009 03:22 AM

How to cut hard maple with out burning I just bought some hard maple to build a table it has bevel edges and the plans call for you to use table saw with blade at ten degree my blade is forrest woodworker two the table saw has three horse motor what I’m worried about is burning when making the bevel cuts the blade is not new but I think it is still sharp enough to cut but if not what blades that are not that costly that would work and how many teeth should i get is it the finer blade better chance of burning I think if I got freud with as many teeth as the woodworker two it will be fine looking for some help thanks the maple will be 1 1/2 thick and 1 3/4 think

13 replies so far

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162 posts in 3349 days

#1 posted 10-22-2009 03:42 AM

I just found this on forrest website look at blade teeth chart

View Mauritius's profile


96 posts in 3250 days

#2 posted 10-22-2009 03:43 AM

I burnt maple on my saw with a Forrest WWII when ripping. I switched to a 24 tooth thin kerf rip blade from Freud (bought it at Home Depot for about 1/4 of the cost of the WWII) and it works great, no burns and a clean cut. You definitely want something with a lower tooth count to avoid burns when ripping.

View MedicKen's profile


1615 posts in 3487 days

#3 posted 10-22-2009 03:55 AM

Maple is notorious for burning. I would just be sure that your blade is sharp and use a good quailty rip blade for the cuts. Feed rate is also just as important, too slow and you will have burning as well. You may also want to check that the blade is parallel to the miter slot and the fence is parallel as well.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their

View Rabbet's profile


35 posts in 3166 days

#4 posted 10-22-2009 04:03 AM

Their is a company called Final Cut that makes a saw blade with sandpaper attached to both sides. They claim perfectly smooth cuts. I believe they are a direct company. I’m sure they have a web site.

View JasonWagner's profile


527 posts in 3205 days

#5 posted 10-22-2009 04:10 AM

You didn’t even try it yet? Try the blade you have on some scrap or 1/16” off of where you want the cut to see if it does burn. Make sure your blade and fence are parallel. Or get your Forrest sharpened if you really have an issue.

-- some day I hope to have enough clamps to need a clamp cart!

View russv's profile


262 posts in 3194 days

#6 posted 10-22-2009 04:35 AM

I also use a 24 tooth thin kerf Freud blade with good success to help prevent burning. hang your tongue out to the left and bite down lightly helps.


-- where to go because you don't want no stinking plastic!

View teenagewoodworker's profile


2727 posts in 3793 days

#7 posted 10-22-2009 04:43 AM

youll be fine with your woodworker 2… sneak up on it… if you try to cut it right to final size right off you will get burns… i agree that switching to a 24 tooth is a good ides…. i have a freud 24 tooth its the industrial that costs 60 dollars and works beautifully. just cut the bevel a 1/16 inch oversize and then do a final pass… move a little fast which should be no problem as youre only taking off a little bit of material and you should be good.

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John Ormsby

1288 posts in 3762 days

#8 posted 10-22-2009 05:09 AM

I use a 12” diameter 14 tooth ripping blade for cutting rock maple. I get no burning. The more teeth the more chance of burning. The friction builds up fast. Proper fed rate is also a must.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

View a1Jim's profile


117115 posts in 3602 days

#9 posted 10-22-2009 07:09 AM

No big deal you don’t need a $ 100 blade to cut maple just a sharp blade. I’ve used blades that cost $30.00
and they cut many different hard woods

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View knotscott's profile


8056 posts in 3400 days

#10 posted 10-22-2009 07:55 AM

The WWII may be a bit prone to burning hard maple of that thickness because it has a low side clearance and polishes the edges…same is true of the Ridge Carbide TS2000, Freud Fusion, Freud LM74 GLR, and Infinity Super General. A good 24T ripper shouldn’t burn, but might leave too rough of a cut…can always hit it with a hand plane, scraper, or sandpaper. A 30T ATB blade like the DeWalt DW7653 or the 30T WWII might be just the ticket.

Either way, a clean sharp blade will help a lot. Making a very light final pass will reduce the chances of burning. Keep the blade height on the high side, wax your table to reduce friction, make sure the alignment is good, and flatten/straighten the boards before your final cut.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View russv's profile


262 posts in 3194 days

#11 posted 10-22-2009 06:16 PM

yeh, all of the above is good advice. And don’t forget the tongue position I mentioned earlier.


-- where to go because you don't want no stinking plastic!

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Don Newton

716 posts in 3643 days

#12 posted 10-22-2009 06:45 PM

Perhaps you could cut the material square and a slight bit oversized, then bevel on the jointer. That way the quality of the cut really wouldn’t matter.

-- Don, Pittsburgh

View woodman71's profile


162 posts in 3349 days

#13 posted 10-22-2009 11:15 PM

Thanks everyone for the advise Russv that tongue tick is not allow my wife said if my tongue got cut off she leave me thought that sound good I cant afford a divorce right now lol

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