How to cut hard maple

I just found this on forrest website http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2020363/Forrest-Woodworker-II-10%E2%80%B3-40T-1-Grind.aspx look at blade teeth chart

I burnt maple on my saw with a Forrest WWII when ripping. I switched to a 24 tooth thin kerf rip blade from Freud (bought it at Home Depot for about 1/4 of the cost of the WWII) and it works great, no burns and a clean cut. You definitely want something with a lower tooth count to avoid burns when ripping.

Maple is notorious for burning. I would just be sure that your blade is sharp and use a good quailty rip blade for the cuts. Feed rate is also just as important, too slow and you will have burning as well. You may also want to check that the blade is parallel to the miter slot and the fence is parallel as well.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

Their is a company called Final Cut that makes a saw blade with sandpaper attached to both sides. They claim perfectly smooth cuts. I believe they are a direct company. I’m sure they have a web site.
-Rabbet

You didn’t even try it yet? Try the blade you have on some scrap or 1/16” off of where you want the cut to see if it does burn. Make sure your blade and fence are parallel. Or get your Forrest sharpened if you really have an issue.

I also use a 24 tooth thin kerf Freud blade with good success to help prevent burning. hang your tongue out to the left and bite down lightly helps.

russv

-- yknotwood.com: where to go because you don't want no stinking plastic!

youll be fine with your woodworker 2… sneak up on it… if you try to cut it right to final size right off you will get burns… i agree that switching to a 24 tooth is a good ides…. i have a freud 24 tooth its the industrial that costs 60 dollars and works beautifully. just cut the bevel a 1/16 inch oversize and then do a final pass… move a little fast which should be no problem as youre only taking off a little bit of material and you should be good.

I use a 12” diameter 14 tooth ripping blade for cutting rock maple. I get no burning. The more teeth the more chance of burning. The friction builds up fast. Proper fed rate is also a must.

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

No big deal you don’t need a $ 100 blade to cut maple just a sharp blade. I’ve used blades that cost $30.00
and they cut many different hard woods

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

The WWII may be a bit prone to burning hard maple of that thickness because it has a low side clearance and polishes the edges…same is true of the Ridge Carbide TS2000, Freud Fusion, Freud LM74 GLR, and Infinity Super General. A good 24T ripper shouldn’t burn, but might leave too rough of a cut…can always hit it with a hand plane, scraper, or sandpaper. A 30T ATB blade like the DeWalt DW7653 or the 30T WWII might be just the ticket.

Either way, a clean sharp blade will help a lot. Making a very light final pass will reduce the chances of burning. Keep the blade height on the high side, wax your table to reduce friction, make sure the alignment is good, and flatten/straighten the boards before your final cut.

yeh, all of the above is good advice. And don’t forget the tongue position I mentioned earlier.

russv

-- yknotwood.com: where to go because you don't want no stinking plastic!

Perhaps you could cut the material square and a slight bit oversized, then bevel on the jointer. That way the quality of the cut really wouldn’t matter.

-- Don, Pittsburgh

Thanks everyone for the advise Russv that tongue tick is not allow my wife said if my tongue got cut off she leave me thought that sound good I cant afford a divorce right now lol