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Boring 3 1/2 inch holes in thick log slabs

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Forum topic by TZH posted 1766 days ago 3808 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TZH

421 posts in 1767 days


1766 days ago

I just joined Lumberjocks and am looking forward to the network. Question: I’m trying to bore 3 1/2 inch diameter holes in 6 to 10 inch thick log slabs to hold wine bottles, and was wondering if any of you out there have any ideas on the best way to go about doing that? I’ve tried using a hole saw with mixed results (plus, this process is slow, labor intensive, and a little on the high pucker-factor side), and am considering using a self-feed drill bit of that diameter. I haven’t seen forstner bits big enough to fill the need, but have been able to find large enough self-feed bits. Other ideas are welcome.

-- https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dead-Wood-Renaissance/361417090585685


18 replies so far

View Gary's profile

Gary

7088 posts in 2059 days


#1 posted 1766 days ago

Welcome to the site. You’ll like it. I never tried what you are trying so no help from me but, someone will come to the rescue

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

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TZH

421 posts in 1767 days


#2 posted 1766 days ago

Thanks. I hope so. I’ve surfed the Internet far and wide trying to find an example of what I’m trying to create and haven’t been able to find anything out there. Most wine bottles are a little over three inches in diameter, and I’m trying to make slabs (crosscut with a chainsaw from the ends of the log) with holes bored in the slabs to accommodate the bottles. I will cut off a portion of the slab so it will “stand on end”, and the wine bottles can then be inserted into the holes. Depending on the size of the slab, these “wine racks” can be used on a countertop or as a stand-alone rack in a home, cabin, or mountain retreat.

-- https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dead-Wood-Renaissance/361417090585685

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UnionLabel

660 posts in 1827 days


#3 posted 1766 days ago

I think the easiest way woud be to use a 3/8” diameter drill bit and drill a series of holes to the inside diameter, leaving a1/16 to the line, then take a plunge router with a staight bit and carefully and gradually remove your interior to the desired depth and then use a chisel to finish the perimeter.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15684 posts in 2845 days


#4 posted 1766 days ago

Have you thought about this type of bit?

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-45002-Lockhead-Adjustable-Wood/dp/B00004YO6Y

Oops…looks like it only cuts up to 3 inches.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

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UnionLabel

660 posts in 1827 days


#5 posted 1766 days ago

Another alternative wood be to make a hardboard template slightly larger than the hole and use a straight bit with a bearing above the cutters and make your holes that way. You could put guides on either side to correspond with the width of the thick stock. I’m assuming that we are not talking about drilling a really deep hole?

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View Timberwerks's profile

Timberwerks

301 posts in 1787 days


#6 posted 1766 days ago

My worry would be the movement of the slab. I doubt these holes will remain round and removing and inserting the bottle will be a problem even with the 1/2” of clearance you may have.

-- http://djofurnituremaker.wordpress.com/ & https://www.facebook.com/pages/Timberwerks-Studio/126415221682

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gagewestern

300 posts in 1977 days


#7 posted 1766 days ago

i have a bit like charlie1958 said to use they work very well but a forstner would be better, they use them to dril wholes for plumbing that size

-- gagewestern

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14721 posts in 2302 days


#8 posted 1765 days ago

Take a planetary bit or forsner bit on a Milwakue Hole Hog to drill the basic hole. Clean up with a straight cut router or sand as necessary or sand.

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112010 posts in 2203 days


#9 posted 1765 days ago

Welcome to Ljs
Here’s what I have used before. I think there are less expensive ones around.

http://www.timbertools.com/Products/WoodOwl_self_feed_wood_boring_bits.html

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View bluchz's profile

bluchz

187 posts in 2000 days


#10 posted 1765 days ago

Now that sounds like a really neat idea that i haven’t seen before. I am looking forward to the finished project pics.

-- flash=250,100]http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/sprxtrerme/BANNERS/thornax.swf[/flash]

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TZH

421 posts in 1767 days


#11 posted 1765 days ago

Thanks to all of you. I like the suggestion from a1Jim and visited the website for the self feed wood boring bits. You’re right, Jim. I was able to find a bit that’s a little less expensive and will purchase it soon if none of my fellow woodworkers around here have one I can borrow (at least to get one of the wine racks done so you all can see a finished product). Again, thanks to all of you for your ideas and suggestions.

-- https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dead-Wood-Renaissance/361417090585685

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a1Jim

112010 posts in 2203 days


#12 posted 1765 days ago

Hey Ted glad it worker out.
Your welcome notottman

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View Occie gilliam's profile

Occie gilliam

505 posts in 1923 days


#13 posted 1746 days ago

Ted, for a cleaner hole. you could start out with a hole saw and switch to the bit that Jim suggested.

And welcome to Lj’s

-- OC down in Costa Rica. come down and see me some time. I'll keep the light on for you too-oc@hotmail.com mail.com

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a1Jim

112010 posts in 2203 days


#14 posted 1746 days ago

That’s a good Idea Occie

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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GFYS

711 posts in 2097 days


#15 posted 1746 days ago

Are these holes angled into the wood or straight in? Look for the self feed hole augers with replacable lead bits…a less agressive lead bit can help make the self feed a little slower and it tends to make a little smoother hole side. If you are angeling the holes much you’ll need to fab a guide to get it started.

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