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How would you face frame this? And minor tool gloat: Veritas 32 cab making system

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Forum topic by Holbs posted 07-29-2015 12:27 AM 923 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Holbs

1371 posts in 1490 days


07-29-2015 12:27 AM

I’m still deeply entrenched in learning cabinetry & casework. I have roughed out the casework for my grizzly combo sander & sandpaper & sanding tool mobile cabinet. No glue or attaching yet, all pieces are dry fitted. I have dimension’d out my red oak rails & stiles (oversized for time being) for my door frames and I’ll be doing the old school way of mortise & tenons soon… also, will be just using hardboard as insert. After getting this experience with door frames, I’ll make another cabinet for some machine (I still have a grizzly scroll saw to put somewhere..hmmm…. or a dedicated miter saw cabinet) using tongue & groove for the joinery. But my question is the face framing (I will tackle faceless later on). As I understand it, face framing only occurs around the outer edge, not the inside. But yet, I never see plywood layers in alot of cabinetry projects. For the middle areas, is the hardwood veneered to the face of the plywood by 1/8 or 1/16”? Or by some optical illusion, does the face frame of the cabinet actually occur on the inside as well?
(you can see my 8” Geetech Jointer in the background. getting these parts is a LONG process…from Taiwan! Still worth the wait and will be another blog restoration project)

oh… minor tool gloat: picked up Veritas 32 deluxe cabinet making system for…well… let’s say under $35 new in box :) Would never of paid the full retail $300 for it… so couldn’t pass it up for $35.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"


10 replies so far

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2190 posts in 941 days


#1 posted 07-29-2015 11:16 AM

In this case I would mount the frame flush with the inside and back it up by double width of ply.
I think you’ll get aggravated with the sandpaper hanging up if you have a frame overlapping the inside.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Dave's profile

Dave

141 posts in 2658 days


#2 posted 07-29-2015 12:47 PM

If I understand the question, I’d face-frame all the stiles and the top, middle, and bottom rails. I’d apply edge banding or a hardwood front to all the lower shelves that form the cubbies. You could also edge-band the whole thing and go ‘frameless’

-- "I'm not afraid of heights. I'm afraid of widths." - Steven Wright

View SirIrb's profile

SirIrb

1239 posts in 691 days


#3 posted 07-29-2015 12:50 PM

THIS


If I understand the question, I d face-frame all the stiles and the top, middle, and bottom rails. I d apply edge banding or a hardwood front to all the lower shelves that form the cubbies. You could also edge-band the whole thing and go frameless

- Dave


-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1591 posts in 885 days


#4 posted 07-29-2015 01:34 PM

You could edge band or you could use a edge banding router bit to attach the hardwood. I agree with the others. All those smaller cubicles would benefit from no overhang of the face frame.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3928 posts in 1954 days


#5 posted 07-29-2015 01:37 PM

I just want to say: YOU SUCK! I’ve had one of those Vertitas systems on my shopping list for quite a while. Not wanting to pay the full price I keep watching for a used one.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1371 posts in 1490 days


#6 posted 07-29-2015 01:50 PM

“edge banding” ... ok, will have to look into that for future projects, thanks all. Wait… edge-banding vs laminating hardwood. Is it the same thing?

Fred, unsure how this came at such a low auction price. Guess it pays to once in awhile visit a live auction on a friday night instead of out drinking and partying :)

Now that I think about it… my local hardwood dealer has rolls of paper thin hardwood (50’ or 100’ rolls) of edge banding. Even think I saw something about “iron on”. Will have to go ask the price tag for what rolls / what material.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

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timbertailor

1591 posts in 885 days


#7 posted 07-29-2015 01:58 PM

There are rolls of edge banding made from different woods\materials that go on like tape. Some are heated to activate the adhesive, others, adhesive needs to be applied.

P.S. Needs a flat\flush surface for the latter and then you have to trim all the excess. Need to weigh the labor involved between the two approaches.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1371 posts in 1490 days


#8 posted 07-29-2015 02:00 PM

thanks tailor.. I’ll go look today. If not $1000 per roll, might pick one up and install it on this project for fun sake. Is it too late to edge-band the bottom-right cubicle dado plywood with the pull out shelves? This will be my 5” and 6” ROS disc area.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

View Roger's profile

Roger

19865 posts in 2265 days


#9 posted 08-02-2015 05:17 PM

Just face frame the outside and make it flush to the inside as rwe2156 said, then just add thin strips (same thickness)as the plywood as edge banding to all the middle parts

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. Kentuk55@yahoo.com

View Holbs's profile

Holbs

1371 posts in 1490 days


#10 posted 08-02-2015 05:35 PM

Roger… so “laminating” hardwood strips to the outside plywood on all middle parts. Sounds so… involved :) But I understand. I did that with my wood whisperer exact dado-jig.
Tailor.. I really like the look of those edge banding router bits. If I foresee a more serious approach to cabinetry, I will snag a set for sure.

-- Yes, my profile picture is of a Carpenter Bee! The name is derived from the Ancient Greek "wood-cutter"

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