New to the router table...first question

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Forum topic by jp90 posted 07-28-2015 02:40 PM 551 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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23 posts in 1157 days

07-28-2015 02:40 PM

I need to make a couple new zero clearance inserts for my table saw. I have a new router table that I figured would help, but I’m having some problems with end grain that didn’t come up when I used to make these inserts with the router in hand.

I traced the old template, then cut it out very close to the line with my scroll saw. I’m cutting these out of some oak that was lying around, and I was worried from the get go about the end grain on the radius. Using a pattern following bit to finish the job and taking light passes, everything went smoothly along the edge grain. As I got to the curve on the end, the first half of the curve cut well where the blades cut away. But, predictably, as I turned back around the curve, the blades were then digging into the grain and the router threw the piece out of my hands, chewing up the end.

I’m using a 1/2” diameter bit at full speed on a bosch router. I’m not climb cutting. I don’t have a fence or balance point on my router table yet—could they help some how? I know for square ends a backer board would be the solution, but I can’t really do that on this curve. I’m thinking I should cut all the safe parts, then flip the wood to finish it off. Any other solutions for this kind of work?

Any recommended books for Router Table uses/jigs/safety?


2 replies so far

View SonOfMI's profile


7 posts in 458 days

#1 posted 07-28-2015 04:42 PM

I’d lower the speed of the router and use push pads for sure.

I’m not able to go to my shop to take a pic, but I picked my favorite features from each of these two links and combined them. I use what I built for all kinds of routing, not just small parts. Its safer to use than bare hands and even push pads while providing more clamping power to hold the piece securely.

I use UHMW to make zero clearance inserts for my saw. It works great for this application and is easy to machine.

View jp90's profile


23 posts in 1157 days

#2 posted 07-28-2015 04:58 PM

Thanks for the tips and links—I’ll check them out.

UHMW or even MDF would be easier to router. The only reason I’ve used hardwood in the past is that I can use my thickness planer to size the depth. What do you do for UHMW? Buy a thinner stock then use leveling screws?

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