Brazilian Red Wood

never heard of it ,
got any pics. ?

try woodworker lll ,
it seems to hold just about anything .

-- david ,new mexico ,allheart

I’d like to see it also

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

I think “Brazilian Redwood” is sometimes the same thing as “Ipe” – is that the case here?

I have worked with Bazilian cherry, and used polyurethane glue. I would think that all the usual precautions would apply like making sure that it has proper moisture content and let it acclimate in your shop for a couple of weeks before cutting into it.
-Rabbet

Sorry guys but photobucket wants to much info. Does anybody know if I can post from my computer somehow? I posted a link to a pic on another site, hopefully this will work.

I did find some info on gluing and they suggested a high quality waterproof glue or epoxy. I will try some different glues on some.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/wood-species/29123d1256155186-brazillian-red-wood-brazilian-red-wood.jpgsamples and see what happens.

Hey Mike,
I just finished a project with BW. You’re internet searches regarding glueing are true, unless you only glue long-grain to long-grain. I’ve also found that polyurethane glue doesn’t bond as well as ordinary wood glue; I ended up using TB-III. One thing that took me by surprise was how allergenic the dust is. When I first started cutting the stuff, I sneezed and had a runny nose for a few days afterwards. Definitely use a respirator. Once I became sensitized, even a little dust sets off my allergies. Other than that, I find that it machined well and is great for inlays. I had good results by finishing it with poly that I thinned and sprayed using HVLP. Hope if helps. Any specific questions, feel free to ask.
Mike

I think I have an answer on gluing. The best info I can get seems to be to use the Polyurithane glue after wiping the edges down with a solvent to get rid of silica or something. I heard both acetone and denutered alcohol.

I will have to get some poly glue as I have never used it. I’ll let you know how it goes.

On the IPE: from the info I saw it is very similar but not the same wood.

Thanks
Mike

Maybe you should seek the wize answers from this MASTER CRAFTSMAN.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/19557

He should know.

-- "Even small steps makes a distance." (Shawn Phillips, musician)

Hello bigmp

Is the TPIII you mention tight bond III from elmers ? Did you try wiping down the wood with acetone or denutered alcohol before gluing with the poly glue.

I had the same problem with the dust and found I even had to wear a mask when I swept up the floors with a mix of dust the next day. The info I found all said it wasn’t toxic just irritating.

Thanks for the info.

Mike

It’s Titebond III and should work perfectly fine. The #1 thing I would recommend is to mill the edges being glued right before glue up. Wiping acetone on the joint will help but may not be entirely necessary. I just glued a box made of cocobolo and was very worried about this problem because that wood is so oily it feels like it is waxed, even after milling (planer, jointer or tablesaw). I used titebond III and havn’t had any issues as it’s been about 2 weeks since glue up. Even the mitered corners where the end grain is glued is still fine and I even forgot to wipe down with acetone. I’ll let you know if a joint fails, but with this wood, I think it would have already done so by now.

-- Childress Woodworks

Thanks childress

I also emailed tightbond tech support last night and they got right back to me. They said the TP III would work on this wood and did say to wipe it down with accetone first.

I like thTB III as it is water based and wipes off with the wet rag. The small boxs I am making are a real bear to sand on the inside and the recessed bottom.

I will post a pic when I get it done.