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Should I just give up and get a custom router bit?

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Forum topic by Sohvkhan posted 07-27-2015 07:02 AM 1134 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sohvkhan

2 posts in 500 days


07-27-2015 07:02 AM

Topic tags/keywords: router router bit profile help question

Before I order a custom router bit, I wanted to ping you guys first.
I want to create this profile, it’s incredibly small .25 inches high and .5 inches wide. I’ve tried doing it with a roundover to no avail (do both sides then flip it over).

Any tips/suggestions?

I’ve attached the pic below as well.


18 replies so far

View BigYin's profile

BigYin

347 posts in 1881 days


#1 posted 07-27-2015 08:37 AM

wooden moulding planes – a number 2 and a number 4 hollow base should do you.
youtube how to use and set up,

Shorty

-- ... Never Apologise For Being Right ...

View ksSlim's profile

ksSlim

1204 posts in 2355 days


#2 posted 07-27-2015 10:59 AM

Spoke shave or disk sander or spindle sander.

-- Sawdust and shavings are therapeutic

View InstantSiv's profile

InstantSiv

259 posts in 1060 days


#3 posted 07-27-2015 11:36 AM

You would need to use 2 different sized router bits. You would also need to use a fence with the router bit. Set it in the same plane with the bearing.

Don’t worry if you can’t get the transition between the two round overs perfect because sanding will smooth everything out.

View jonah's profile

jonah

687 posts in 2764 days


#4 posted 07-27-2015 01:40 PM

You could definitely do that with two different radius roundover bits and a router table, as InstantSiv mentioned. The larger one is 1/2” or thereabouts and the smaller is close to 1/4”.

View jerryminer's profile

jerryminer

528 posts in 906 days


#5 posted 07-27-2015 04:37 PM

Two roundover bits (3/16” and 1/16”) in a router table:

Use a fence and a good hold-down/in system

View InstantSiv's profile

InstantSiv

259 posts in 1060 days


#6 posted 07-27-2015 06:08 PM

Oh,... didn’t realize it’s only .25” thick.

In that case… just do the larger round over with a router and sand the smaller radius. Sanding with a coarse grit will get you the desired results very quickly.

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jonah

687 posts in 2764 days


#7 posted 07-28-2015 12:18 PM

I totally missed that it’s only 1/4” thick. My bad. One routed profile and one sanded sounds good to me.

View Daruc's profile

Daruc

459 posts in 598 days


#8 posted 07-28-2015 01:52 PM

No mention of grain but,
I would use my 1/2” bullnose bit,
route the edge of my 1/2” material, (before cutting into strips)
then cut it of on the table saw,
then finish the small radius on the two edges.

Bullnose Bit:

-- -

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

2227 posts in 1911 days


#9 posted 07-28-2015 02:15 PM

Have you priced the cost of custom made bit? maybe it is worth it to have it made to the exact profile you need.it’s a small bit.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View Yonak's profile

Yonak

979 posts in 986 days


#10 posted 07-28-2015 03:08 PM

I don’t know the application but I would think about starting with a 3/8” dowel, cutting the correct flat and finishing off with a 1/16” r. router bit or sandpaper. If you use a router bit with a roller bearing, sandpaper would be the final shaper anyway as bearing against a curve or angle requires adjustment and sandpaper.

View Kazooman's profile

Kazooman

628 posts in 1417 days


#11 posted 07-28-2015 03:15 PM



I don t know the application but I would think about starting with a 3/8” dowel, cutting the correct flat and finishing off with a 1/16” r. router bit or sandpaper. If you use a router bit with a roller bearing, sandpaper would be the final shaper as bearing against a curve requires adjustment and sandpaper.

- Yonak

Do you mean that you would glue on a strip of square stock after cutting the flat? Hard to get 1/2” out of a 3/8” dowel otherwise.

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

826 posts in 1195 days


#12 posted 07-28-2015 03:16 PM

Hopefully you are doing this on a board at least 1 1/8”+ wide. After rounding, split it at 1/2”, and you’re done.

Jerryminers suggestions of router bits looks about right.

Opps, your picture shows only half of what you are trying to make until I clicked on the link you provided.. Ignore the other stuff in this post.

Woodust has it right, then use the smaller radius roundover that jminer suggest.

Another revision——start with a piece about 1” wide by 1/2” thick. Rout it on 1/2” edges, split it at 1/4” thick, then use the smaller radius bit. I personally think you could get the smaller radius by just sanding it. ...... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View Ghidrah's profile

Ghidrah

667 posts in 687 days


#13 posted 07-28-2015 03:56 PM

It’s obvious from the 1/2 pic the image isn’t scale, the top right peaks and begins descending. I agree with ripping the final top profile but there aren’t any router or shaper bits available, nor would they be safe if they did exist. A molder would do the job with knives, but could only do the top to the point of recurve at the bottom. Rip at this point then use a router with the bottom 1/4 of a 1/2” radius bit then sand to suit.

I think you should think of something different, all these processes assume you have access to TS, BS, RT, molder with custom knives. Assuming you have a molder, 3/7”wide custom knives will probably run you from $150 to $200+. Maybe more, I haven’t bought any in a few yrs.

-- I meant to do that!

View Yonak's profile

Yonak

979 posts in 986 days


#14 posted 07-28-2015 06:12 PM


Oops, your picture shows only half of what you are trying to make until I clicked on the link you provided.. Ignore the other stuff in this post.

- Nubsnstubs

ditto . . .

View Sohvkhan's profile

Sohvkhan

2 posts in 500 days


#15 posted 07-28-2015 11:18 PM



Have you priced the cost of custom made bit? maybe it is worth it to have it made to the exact profile you need.it s a small bit.

- distrbd

It’s $150 – 300 and 1-2 weeks. Not going to break the bank, but if I can avoid it, that’s good too!

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