Trouble using tinted shellac

Try thinning it out even more about 50/50 with denatured alcohol.

-- Mark, www.mrhudon.com

Like MrHudon said, use a higher cut of denatured alochol. Also work with a natural bristle brush may help you with control.

One rag method is to use a lambswool batt wrapped tightly in lint free cotton. This lets you apply more pressure than a standard rag to push the shellac around.

Also, Amber Tinted is more waxy than clear or dewaxed. One option is to use a dewaxed and a dye to reach the same amber color. Easier to work with in lower temperatures. Keep your shellac in a warm spot in the house, but don’t go so far as to throw it in the oven.

To move shellac with a brush or batt you’ll want to first do figure eights, then on the second application run lines while keeping the brush on the surface, not too much pressure and move quick.

Also, higher cuts for your first (wash coat) then once you have a thin layer down you can move to lower cuts since the second and subsequent coats of shellac will melt into the layer below and give you a “hydroplane” effect.

NathanAllen hit the nail on the head. The technique is called “French Polishing”. I’m not great at it ‘cause I don’t get to practice. You can add a little mineral oil to the rag to keep it from dragging on the partially dried portions. You’ll find plenty of internet tutorials.

-- Steve B - New Life Home Improvement

Pete, I’ve learned french polishing and it is great for flat surfaces, but sounds like you are working with a lot of vertical surfaces, knooks and cranies as well. Padding, can also cause lines etc, but you can work them out with multiple layers. Shellac will build and work on itself, thus filling the low spots eventually. The french polish style of figure eights and, believe it or not, going against the grain after the first few layers will help level things out. A lot of work. Have you thought of spraying a couple of really thin layers and then working with the tinted (and you can add tint to shellac too) on top of that? The spray layers make the rest of the process less work, or it does for me. They sell shellac spray at the big box, and it may help you get into some of those tough spots, just do light-thin layers so you don’t get drips or runs. Oh, and most folks do use the dewaxed. If you want to add a top layer, such as ploy or lacquer, you must use dewaxed. And as everyone will tell you “test it first” and I think you’re already doing that. Hope this helps.

-- Jim Hallada, Chesterfield, VA