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Forum topic by JUC posted 07-25-2015 06:15 PM 1210 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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116 posts in 1884 days

07-25-2015 06:15 PM

Would like to fill some cracks in a live edge table that run through a knot. I need some THIN VISCOSITY EPOXY. I would like to pour it into the crack and then finish it. Would you please recommend a brand name and a place where can I buy it.
Thank you for your time!!

-- If no one will ever see it, all the more reason to make it right

12 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile (online now)


6698 posts in 2193 days

#1 posted 07-25-2015 06:24 PM

Standard epoxy (not the stuff that comes in the twin tube syringes you get at the borg) flows pretty easily as is, and usually in a situation like you describe, you will have a hard time keeping it from flowing out of the crack anyway. If you want it to flow even more, the best method is to heat it. Adding solvents is another method, but it changes the composition of the epoxy and can make it porous. See this technical paper from West Systems for some specifics:


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View RobS888's profile


2411 posts in 1839 days

#2 posted 07-25-2015 06:40 PM

West system epoxy is great for filling voids. My problem is getting it to not leak out or through a board. Put some painters tape on the bottom or you will have a puddle on the floor or worse, stuck boards.

I found that using a credit card or hotel room key on the tape to mush it into the surface helps a lot. Any that projects needs to be sanded. Trans tint dyes can usually get you close to finish color.

We get plastic syringes off of amazon to help inject it into voids, so it gets deeper. My wife uses it on her wood turnings and needs it to follow the crack to the beginning.

I have a cedar log that thickened epoxy ran through. Almost 2 feet and pooled out the bottom. Fortunately I had put a piece of paper under it, so it didn’t stick to the floor.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View bonesbr549's profile


1544 posts in 3061 days

#3 posted 07-25-2015 06:44 PM

If the hole is small I use the thin Hot stuff with accelerator.

they make diff viscosities. I work with cherry a lot and its great for filling voids. Sands well too and will just look like pitch pockets when done.

They make some wicked stuff that will glow in the dark and have metal flakes too.

I love the accelerator to.

Good luck.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View crank49's profile


4030 posts in 2965 days

#4 posted 07-25-2015 06:49 PM

System 3, from Woodcraft is my “go to” preference.

View bondogaposis's profile


4719 posts in 2345 days

#5 posted 07-25-2015 06:53 PM

This is the stuff you want.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View rustfever's profile


752 posts in 3304 days

#6 posted 07-25-2015 07:05 PM

A procedure I have used to prevent epoxy from bleed thru.

First, fill the back side of the thru crack using hot glue. On the surface our just slightly into the crack. Enough just to seal the crack.

Second, flip the piece and insert epoxy, let cure.

Third, flip the piece again and remove the hot glue and then add epoxy to finish filling the crack.

Finally, continue your work on the piece.

-- Rustfever, Central California

View Drew's profile


350 posts in 3094 days

#7 posted 07-25-2015 11:35 PM

Get the 2 part- 5 minute epoxy from home depot.
Heat a cup of water in the microwave just short of a boil. Put both parts of the epoxy in steaming hot water for 2+ minutes. Then take them out, squeeze out equal parts and mix. Then pour it into voids. Also a good idea to have a hair dryer or heat gun ready if you move to slow with the epoxy.


View JUC's profile


116 posts in 1884 days

#8 posted 07-26-2015 12:49 AM

This is wonderful. thanks for the help!!

-- If no one will ever see it, all the more reason to make it right

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2656 posts in 2916 days

#9 posted 07-26-2015 12:16 PM

What I use is a product called “Z-poxy” that I get at my local hobby shop. It is actually a finishing resin but fills cracks a voids well, leaving no bubbles to contend with. It is so thin that if there is a visible hairline crack that goes all the way through a knot I have to put masking tape on the bottom to stop the Z-poxy from running out the bottom side. Great penitration!

-- Website is No PHD just a DD214 and a GED

View cabbie's profile


64 posts in 1968 days

#10 posted 07-30-2015 08:04 PM

I just completed a countertop project for a client using highly distressed honey mesquite, full of stress cracks and some dry rot. Used a 2-part epoxy system from AeroMarine products in San Diego, CA. They also have fillers and colorants (I used their black). Viscosity starts out almost water-thin and can be thickened all they way to putty consistency with a talc or Cab-O-Sil filler.
I like rustfevers’ advice about the hot melt trick. Could have made my life a whole lot less complicated on this project as there were LOTS of thru-cracks, and I had epoxy leaking out all over the place.
One caution—a thin ,colored epoxy will get into any open pores of your wood, and if it’s in a spot where you don’t want the color stain in the wood, you’re in for a fair bit of sanding.
have fun!

-- Jim, Altadena, CA

View madts's profile


1862 posts in 2334 days

#11 posted 07-30-2015 08:18 PM

There is a product called GIT-rot. This is a very low viscosity epoxy designed to fill into rotted wood. It is like water and seeps into everything. Good for many things if you want thin epoxy . Amazon has it as do boating stores.


-- Thor and Odin are still the greatest of Gods.

View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 2280 days

#12 posted 08-02-2015 12:17 AM

Go to a place that sells model airplane building supplies. A larger hobby store would have what you need. It’s called “finishing epoxy”. It’s like water thin with a short working time (about 5 minutes max if memory serves). I’ve got some out in my shop. If you hot glue the bottom of a through crack, then carefully fill from the top with finishing epoxy, when the epoxy is dry you flip it back over and alcohol will remove the hot glue easily.

That hot glue and alcohol trick is useful when fabricating corian as well. When you double up an edge you clamp your bottom strip in place, hot glue a few stop blocks against it, remove the clamps, apply your “corian glue” (which I think is just an epoxy) and then put the strip against the stop blocks. Clamp it all up, alcohol to remove the stop blocks… done.

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