How to Fasten facing trim to cabinets

nails will work… you may want to use finishing nails, brads may not be long enough. Remember that brad/nail holes will have to be filled with putty… if you use finish nails and a hammer predrill holes to prevent splitting the oak face frames. Oak is notorious for splitting.

as you said, it is not fine furniture, how about a little glue and countersunk screws, then cover the screws with button plugs. use contrasting wood to make the plugs an accent…

you can also use pocket screws and glue, assuming that you can get to them from inside.

If the face frame is just show, and not needed to hang doors, you can just glue it on, use a c-clamp on the plywood then use a wedge to put some pressure on the face frame until the glue dries.

-- Dane, Fairview Pk, OH. The large print giveth and the small print taketh away...

If you can get it aligned you can also use biscuits

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

18ga brads

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

since they are already attached, and if you don’t mind a few very small holes, then like mics_54 said 18 ga brads are the easiest way to go. Just dab them with stain to may the silver go away. if you plan to build more of these, or build cabinets in general, i’d recommend investing in a biscuit joiner. i was putting edge trim on plywood shelving tonight with biscuits.

One other item. I think small 1/8” or so dowels always look great and not to hard to install. I would use dowels that are darker than the wood. They have an old world charm. Like a good wine! just my $0.02 good luck

-- david roberts, houston area, "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, but that has never been a problem for me."

Micro pins which are 23 ga. and glue. the pins will hold it tight until the glue dries.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

How the heck would you put 1/4 trim on with a bisquet?

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

Very helpful, thanks. The wood is pretty dark stained, so I’m not sure I could make dowels darker, and I am not sure I would want them lighter. I will run that one by my wife, who often has good instincts on what is going to look right.

I’ve got an 18 gauge nail gun and if I can hide the brads I may try that.

The wine is going to love all this.

-- --Don, Columbia, SC

”I’ve got an 18 gauge nail gun”

There ya go!!

The gun should sink the brad without having to use a punch. Fill the hole with putty and sand.
Someone had a good idea, ( I think it was Todd ) put some masking tape over the wood then shoot your nail through the tape and then put your putty in the hole over the tape. this way you don’t get putty into the grain all around your hole which could leave a spot if it doesn’t get sanded completely.

How the heck would you put 1/4 trim on with a bisquet?
If you putty it use color putty after it’s finished. Mix the color putty to match.

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

If have some of the sawdust from the same type of wood, you can mix it up with glue, make your own putty, and use the same technique that Bentlyj suggested. The sawdust will match your wood and should take the stain the same as the wood around it. Or you can go ahead and add the stain to your mix before you put it into the holes. I have done this and it has matched very close and hardly, if at all, noticeable. Use a 23 ga. pin nailer if you have one along with glue. If not use an 18 ga. Pin nailers cost about $60 at the Home Depot. Or you can Harbor freight and get one cheaper, but not as reliable for long term use.

-- Ed E. " Taking one board at a time "

mics_54, oops, read the post to fast and didn’t see the 1/4” trim. that would be one small biscuit,”0000”, haha

-- david roberts, houston area, "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, but that has never been a problem for me."

Velcro

-- http://www.woodsongsfurniture.com

I must be missing something … where does it say ¼” trim?? He says he used 1×4 (which is ¾” thick) and ripped it to 1¼” wide, so the trim is ¾” x 1¼”.

If it’s only ¼”, then just glue it.

-- http://www.north40custom.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

I didn’t find the 1/4” either. Sounds like he wants to mount 1 1/4” wide trim (he cut from a 1×4 solid oak.) That should make it 3/4” thick. I’m with the biscuits if you can align it. Glue and biscuit should be enough.

-- John @ Myrtle Beach

OK I put my glasses on…calm down.

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

Yes, the trim is 1 and one quarter inch wide. I went ahead and used the brads and it seems to be working fine. I’ll finishthe trimming tomorrow I hope and then all it wants is a little more stain and top coat.

thanks
Don

-- --Don, Columbia, SC

This may be two weeks late,but, how about attaching from the inside? That way nothing shows on the outside.

-- No sawdust on the floor means no money in the pocket.

Ya’ll have got me so screwed-up, I can’t think straight. Which is why I think I’ll head to the kitchen for another glass of tea, and re-think this thing again.

Somebody needs to put on some glasses, or something !!! lol lol.

-- Remember--- one good turn-- gets most of the blanket!!!!