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How to Fasten facing trim to cabinets

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Forum topic by Don46 posted 1640 days ago 2172 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Don46

43 posts in 2100 days


1640 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: trim facing fastening nailing

I’ve built three tall cabinets, to be used as wine bins in a cellar, out of 3/4 inch oak ply. I have ripped 1×4 inch solid oak lumber 1 1/4 inches wide for the face trim. I’m planning to attach them now that the cabinets are bolted together and in place. Because the cabinets are not accessible from the back or sides now that they are installed, I need to attach the face trim from the front.

What is the best way to attach this? Can I use my brad nailer? Or should I use finish nails and a hammer + punch? This is not fine furniture but it looks nice and I want to make this finishing touch look right.

—Don

-- --Don, Columbia, SC


17 replies so far

View DaneJ's profile

DaneJ

55 posts in 1706 days


#1 posted 1640 days ago

nails will work… you may want to use finishing nails, brads may not be long enough. Remember that brad/nail holes will have to be filled with putty… if you use finish nails and a hammer predrill holes to prevent splitting the oak face frames. Oak is notorious for splitting.

as you said, it is not fine furniture, how about a little glue and countersunk screws, then cover the screws with button plugs. use contrasting wood to make the plugs an accent…

you can also use pocket screws and glue, assuming that you can get to them from inside.

If the face frame is just show, and not needed to hang doors, you can just glue it on, use a c-clamp on the plywood then use a wedge to put some pressure on the face frame until the glue dries.

-- Dane, Fairview Pk, OH. The large print giveth and the small print taketh away...

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a1Jim

109158 posts in 2075 days


#2 posted 1640 days ago

If you can get it aligned you can also use biscuits

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View GFYS's profile

GFYS

711 posts in 1969 days


#3 posted 1640 days ago

18ga brads

View davidroberts's profile

davidroberts

996 posts in 1984 days


#4 posted 1640 days ago

since they are already attached, and if you don’t mind a few very small holes, then like mics_54 said 18 ga brads are the easiest way to go. Just dab them with stain to may the silver go away. if you plan to build more of these, or build cabinets in general, i’d recommend investing in a biscuit joiner. i was putting edge trim on plywood shelving tonight with biscuits.

One other item. I think small 1/8” or so dowels always look great and not to hard to install. I would use dowels that are darker than the wood. They have an old world charm. Like a good wine! just my $0.02 good luck

-- God is Great, Wood is Good. nuff said.

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Karson

34795 posts in 2898 days


#5 posted 1640 days ago

Micro pins which are 23 ga. and glue. the pins will hold it tight until the glue dries.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

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GFYS

711 posts in 1969 days


#6 posted 1640 days ago

How the heck would you put 1/4 trim on with a bisquet?

View Don46's profile

Don46

43 posts in 2100 days


#7 posted 1640 days ago

Very helpful, thanks. The wood is pretty dark stained, so I’m not sure I could make dowels darker, and I am not sure I would want them lighter. I will run that one by my wife, who often has good instincts on what is going to look right.

I’ve got an 18 gauge nail gun and if I can hide the brads I may try that.

The wine is going to love all this.

-- --Don, Columbia, SC

View GFYS's profile

GFYS

711 posts in 1969 days


#8 posted 1640 days ago

How the heck would you put 1/4 trim on with a bisquet?
If you putty it use color putty after it’s finished. Mix the color putty to match.

View Ed Elizondo's profile

Ed Elizondo

81 posts in 2021 days


#9 posted 1640 days ago

If have some of the sawdust from the same type of wood, you can mix it up with glue, make your own putty, and use the same technique that Bentlyj suggested. The sawdust will match your wood and should take the stain the same as the wood around it. Or you can go ahead and add the stain to your mix before you put it into the holes. I have done this and it has matched very close and hardly, if at all, noticeable. Use a 23 ga. pin nailer if you have one along with glue. If not use an 18 ga. Pin nailers cost about $60 at the Home Depot. Or you can Harbor freight and get one cheaper, but not as reliable for long term use.

-- Ed E. " Taking one board at a time "

View davidroberts's profile

davidroberts

996 posts in 1984 days


#10 posted 1639 days ago

mics_54, oops, read the post to fast and didn’t see the 1/4” trim. that would be one small biscuit,”0000”, haha

-- God is Great, Wood is Good. nuff said.

View dennis mitchell's profile

dennis mitchell

3994 posts in 2812 days


#11 posted 1639 days ago

Velcro

View Peter Oxley's profile

Peter Oxley

1425 posts in 2372 days


#12 posted 1639 days ago

I must be missing something … where does it say ¼” trim?? He says he used 1×4 (which is ¾” thick) and ripped it to 1¼” wide, so the trim is ¾” x 1¼”.

If it’s only ¼”, then just glue it.

-- http://www.peteroxley.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

View huff's profile

huff

2721 posts in 1783 days


#13 posted 1639 days ago

I didn’t find the 1/4” either. Sounds like he wants to mount 1 1/4” wide trim (he cut from a 1×4 solid oak.) That should make it 3/4” thick. I’m with the biscuits if you can align it. Glue and biscuit should be enough.

-- John @ http://www.thehuffordfurnituregroup.com

View GFYS's profile

GFYS

711 posts in 1969 days


#14 posted 1639 days ago

OK I put my glasses on…calm down.

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Don46

43 posts in 2100 days


#15 posted 1639 days ago

Yes, the trim is 1 and one quarter inch wide. I went ahead and used the brads and it seems to be working fine. I’ll finishthe trimming tomorrow I hope and then all it wants is a little more stain and top coat.

thanks
Don

-- --Don, Columbia, SC

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