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Binding when ripping on Table Saw

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Forum topic by Don46 posted 10-18-2009 04:22 PM 4074 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Don46

43 posts in 2289 days


10-18-2009 04:22 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw binding ripping splitter

I’m ripping some 1 1/4” red oak (1×4) on a Powermatic 64a with a new expensive blade made for the purpose.
(LM74R010 10-Inch 30 Tooth TCG Glue Line Ripping Saw). This is not a thin kerf blade.
My blade is aligned with the miter slot.
My fence is aligned with the miter slot, just slightly out at the back.

The wood is binding when it hits the splitter, the engine is stalling, the blade is burning the wood.
You can feel it bind between the splitter and the fence. On the other side of the splitter it seems to be pulling the wood away from the fence and causing a wide split in the cut. It is as though the splitter is set too far

I thought I saw the problem: the splitter was out of line, too close to the fence, and it was. I adjusted it and used a straight edge and my eyeball to check alignment. It looks to be in perfect alignment now.
But the problems persist. !

I’m convinced the problem is with the splitter after the wood passes the blade. I can feel it catch and it is hard to feed.

One theory is that we have had a terrific amount of rain and the wood might be damp. It was outside in a dry area and never got any rain on it, but it would have absorbed the damp air. But I’m not sure this explains the particular problem I’m having.

I’ve seen another post here in which the recommended solution was to clean, polish and wax the splitter. I’ll try that today. Can’t hurt.

I’m cutting facing trim for wine bins which I installed yesterday in my wine cellar. (No, I’ve not been tasting any wine in my shop). This is the last stage of my wine cellar project that began in July, and I’ve got a party planned for Thursday to celebrate the opening of the cellar. I need to get this finishing touch done.

Thanks for any advice you can offer. —Don

-- --Don, Columbia, SC


7 replies so far

View Karson's profile

Karson

34891 posts in 3087 days


#1 posted 10-18-2009 04:28 PM

Is the splitter wider than than the blade. I’ve heard others state that problem. In their case it was a fine kerf blade that was causing the problem. You stated that your blade was not that kind.

Try a piece of ply or mdf and see if you can get it past the splitter. If it doesn’t work then it’s not your wood, It’s something else.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

View rwyoung's profile

rwyoung

369 posts in 2158 days


#2 posted 10-18-2009 04:34 PM

On my tablesaw, the splitter is too wide for some thin-kerf blades. Switching back to full kerf blades and the splitter works like it should.

Mic the splitter and the outsides of the teeth on the blade

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 2149 days


#3 posted 10-18-2009 04:47 PM

If I remember correctly the blade that you have in the saw is only recommended for ripping 3/4” to 1” material.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View Don46's profile

Don46

43 posts in 2289 days


#4 posted 10-18-2009 07:09 PM

I’m ripping 1×4 red oak. I don’t think that is the problem. And the blade is not thin kerf.

This morning, with a clearer mind and more light, I sight checked the alignment and found that the splitter was bent slightly so that the top was out of line slightly. I bent it back so it looked in line when I sight checked it looking down the blade.

I also went over the splitter with some fine steel wool on the “can’t hurt” premise.

But one of the things I did which may have made the difference is to raise the saw blade. Before I had it so that the bottom of the teeth were right at the top of the wood. Now the teeth are well above the wood. I had read somewhere that raising the blade could reduce drag.

The oak also had some more time to dry, if that was a factor, and, for those or other reasons, the wood cut well. I’m still having some black marks on the cut which I assume are from burning, but it no longer smells, there appears to be no significant binding, and I’m getting decent, if not perfect, results.

—thanks for the feedback. Don

-- --Don, Columbia, SC

View bob1638's profile

bob1638

17 posts in 1835 days


#5 posted 10-18-2009 09:05 PM

Sounds more like natural stress within the lumber is causing the binding. I have cut many 5, 6 and 8 quarter pieces of lumber and often ttimes they will bind and cut unevenly.

Bob

View Paul's profile

Paul

347 posts in 2276 days


#6 posted 10-18-2009 10:54 PM

Important that the blade be alligned with the fence, not the miter slot, check the allignment of the bade to the fence and then check the splitter to the miter slot. careful allignmnet should help.

-- If you say 'It's good enough', it probably isn't.

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

1854 posts in 2248 days


#7 posted 10-19-2009 12:15 AM

Sounds you might have a piece of “reactive” wood. If so it has internal stress (due to the way it grew) and when it is cut the stresses are relieved and the wood binds against the splitter or fence.

Raising the blade so the gullets are slightly proud of the wood surface as you did should be Standard Operating Procedure for all cuts.

-- Joe

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