Cabinet building/design question

Hi Betsy,

I think you could get away with doing what you suggest. You might add horizontal cleats for the top and bottom of the cabinet and then add the face frame. As to depth and height, I would make it so that a tall person seated on the toilet wouldn’t bang their head. For depth I would go with maybe 14 to 16”.

-- Until you spread your wings, you'll have no idea how far you can walk.

Thanks Dave!

-- You can't get a hug from Facebook.

I would build box 28” x 30” tall out of 3/4” plywood. This gets mounted to the studs on the wall. There is enough space left on each side to glue and brad the face frame that you had scribed to the contour of the two sides. This gives you a perfectly square box that fits perfectly wall to wall in a usually not so square space. The depth of the cabinet would be in line with the toilet seat cover in the up position. This guarantees no one bumps their head and has a custom detail to the measure. The doors would be made after the box is fitted to the space.

-- Thuan

Betsy you have described a built in cabinet, that is old school,, stick built cabinetry. The only draw back would be not having wood/melamine walls for your cabinet. You still need to build shelves.
A) about 54 inches
B) They can be short or run all the way to the ceiling.
C) Less than 12 inches, If you want large towels in it I’d make it 12 deep.

-- http://www.woodsongsfurniture.com

The builders up one above one of our toilets. It is 8” deep and 26” above the water tank. It has never been close to being in the way. I don’t think 12” deep would be a problem at that height, maybe if it were lower.

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

Thanks for the ideas guys!

-- You can't get a hug from Facebook.