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Hall Table advice needed--design questions !!

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Forum topic by Rick Dennington posted 10-17-2009 05:06 PM 922 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Rick Dennington

5177 posts in 2657 days


10-17-2009 05:06 PM

Hey guys: Need some advice on a hall table I’m building for a lady. The overall diminsions are 50”x 15”x 36”.
I’ve got all the parts cut to diminsion(it’s oak, by the way). The legs are mortised and tapered, and the front and back aprons are 5 1/2”wide x 47” long (same with the end aprons). She wants a drawer that’s about 20 ” wide and 3—3 1/2” deep. The drawer front will be flush or inset from the piece cut out to keep the grain pattern all matching. I’ve built several tables, but have never put a drawer in them. All have been solid aprons before. My questions are: (1) Do I need to rip the apron first and get the parts laid out, and put tenons on the two ends (tenons are 3/8’ x 5 1/2” x 1”(stub tenons), or (2) cut the tenons first, then rip the parts? All parts glued back together minus the drawer front. (3) Should the drawer slide on runners, or do I need to build sides(a box, if you will) for the drawer to fit in to set flush? These are crazy questions, I know, but any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. Rick.

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!


5 replies so far

View bob1638's profile

bob1638

17 posts in 2611 days


#1 posted 10-18-2009 08:59 PM

I would cut out the drawer front from the apron piece, glue it back together, then cut the others to match…then cut the tenons.

I have made small tables with drawers in the apron. I made a “C” shape channel for the drawer guides. The bottom of the “C” keeps the drawer from falling down once inside…and the top of the “C” keep the drawer from falling down when opened. The side of the drawer need about 3/16 to 1/4 for clearence top and bottom. Keep the side clearance about 1/16 each side for smooth operation. A rub down with wax or soap will make the drawer slide smoothly.

Bob

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mtkate

2049 posts in 2788 days


#2 posted 10-18-2009 10:10 PM

When I learned to make my table – sounds like yours – in my woodworking class we simply put wooden runners. No need to build a box.

My biggest issue, as I recall, was that the drawer was too tight the first time. It fit perfectly BEFORE I put any finish. But that 1 or 2 mm worth of varnish made it tight and I had to sand down and do it again.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5177 posts in 2657 days


#3 posted 10-19-2009 12:34 AM

Thanks guys, for the replys on the table.
mtkate: that was my plan—just to make runners for the dawers top and bottom to keep it drom falling out when opened, but will think on it more.

bob1638: I kinda figured that I’d cut out the drawer first from the apron , and like you said, glue it all back together again minus the drawer front. I’m not sure what you mean—”the others to match” I’m only gonna have one drawer. Are you talking about the rest of the aprons with all tenons cut? Reply please.

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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bob1638

17 posts in 2611 days


#4 posted 10-19-2009 01:11 AM

Hi Rick—I was referring to…after glueing up the apron with the opening for the drawer…this will determine the final dimension for the height of the apron…then easy to make the other 3 the same.

A single lower runner (centered) and one above the drop (to keep the drawer from dropping down when opened) would work well.

Bob

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Rick Dennington

5177 posts in 2657 days


#5 posted 10-19-2009 02:58 AM

Thanks again, Bob, for the clarification. I figured that ’s what you meant, but wanted to be sure.

My plan was to make runners for the drawer to slide on top and bottom. Thanks again. Rick.

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

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