Unique bandsaw tracking question (Grizzly G1019)

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Forum topic by pistolpcd posted 07-21-2015 02:44 PM 911 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4 posts in 964 days

07-21-2015 02:44 PM

Greetings fellow lumberjocks! lots of great info here. I searched an read a lot of it when trying to research my current issue of my Grizzly G1019 bandsaw tracking issues….I purchased the bandsaw from and estate sale last year for $50!! Great deal…cleaned it up and added some upgrades (urethane tires, new guide blocks and a Kreg precision fence, Carter AccuRight ratchet rod and 3/4” Laguna Resaw King blade)....

However, I can not get the bandsaw to track correctly….it worked fine when I first bought it but only hade a 1/4” blade on it….

So I went thru the steps of checking coplanarity…had to add a 0.075” spacer (washer) to the upper wheel.

Then adjusted tension to the 1/2” mark on the tension guide (no way I could ever get it to the 3/4” mark) with all the guides moved out of the way..

I was able get it to track correctly on the top wheel without drifting but it is nearly half off on the bottom wheel!!

Then I started fussing with the cant on the upper wheel while moving the blade in reverse…got it to track beautifully on both wheels for several hundred turns and can do this all day long!!! However when I move it forward it immediately starts to track off the wheels in less than two turns?? Again it reverse you can go all day without movement??

any ideas oh knowledgeable ones???

Thanks in advance for your time and trouble

11 replies so far

View WhyMe's profile


575 posts in 985 days

#1 posted 07-21-2015 02:55 PM

Can’t compare turning in reverse to forward. Whole different dynamics. Tooth direction will have an affect on the track. You need to forget about what it’s doing in reverse and concentrate on getting it right in forward direction.

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4 posts in 964 days

#2 posted 07-21-2015 04:36 PM

That’s just it..can’t for the life of me get it to track at all in the forward direction… out of adjustment in the can’t mechanism and wheel contacts the backplate of the upper housing cover… it possible even at 1/2 inch tension mark I’m too tight?

View chrisstef's profile


15487 posts in 2430 days

#3 posted 07-21-2015 04:53 PM

Ive got the same saw and ive had very good luck on tracking the blade when I put the gullet of the blade at the center of the wheel. It looks like you may have that blade a bit too far forward. Youtube Alex Snodgrass bandsaw setup. Mine’s never run so well since setting up like he’s shown. I believe that he explains it as the wheel having a slight crown to them. The gullet of the blade should be right at the apex of the crown.

Also those upper two studs that hold on the cover bolts can be tightened with an adjustable wrench. My upper wheel was rubbing against the housing until I snugged those up.

-- "there aren’t many hand tools as awe-inspiring as the #8 jointer. I mean, it just reeks of cast iron heft and hubris" - Smitty

View WhyMe's profile


575 posts in 985 days

#4 posted 07-21-2015 05:02 PM

I doubt you have the blade tension too tight. Search the web on “How to set bandsaw blade tension”.

View Planeman40's profile


790 posts in 2185 days

#5 posted 07-21-2015 05:59 PM

I’m going to take a wild stab here. I am very familiar with bandsaw tracking as I have been using one for over 50 years. I think there might be a possibility that the bandsaw blade may be welded slightly cockeyed, not enough for the eye to notice, but enough to present problems. Try another bandsaw blade, preferably one from a store like Highland Hardware who sells top grade stuff.

-- Always remember: It is a mathematical certainty that half the people in this country are below average in intelligence!

View Chris208's profile


237 posts in 1694 days

#6 posted 07-21-2015 06:20 PM

The blade is too big for the saw. despite the fact that the manuafacurer spec probably say up to 3/4”, that saw was not designed to tension or use a blade that wide.

I have a 14” delta saw, and I use a 3TPI 3/8” blade for nearly everything. Including all resawing.

View MrUnix's profile


4049 posts in 1623 days

#7 posted 07-21-2015 07:02 PM

It makes NO difference where the blade tracks on the bottom wheel and will, in most cases, never track in the same place as the upper one. Many have had the same problem after thinking the same as you, and adding shims/washers to the top wheel in a similar effort – only to find out that the problem goes away once they remove their good intentioned ‘fix’. The wheels do not need to be co-planer, and they are not that way when built.

Also, check to make sure your upper wheel bracket isn’t bent/broken. Typical problem, particularly when people try to use large blades and crank down on the tension.

And what Chris sez – while the manual may say it can do 3/4”, that really is too wide a blade for the machine.

Finally, watch the obligatory band saw tune up video:
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass


-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View AHuxley's profile


425 posts in 2745 days

#8 posted 07-21-2015 07:25 PM

Bamdsaw users have been deluged with, I assume good intentioned, misleading information about the need for wheels to be coplaner. I have had 30 or so bandsaws over the years from 14” to 36” and never once that required adjusting the wheels to co-planer. Blades will track all over the place on the lower wheel, especially if it is crowned.

Second, you have a carbide tipped blade that likes 28,000 to 30,000 psi of tension on the band, that saw can’t come near that, even though the RK is a rather thin gauge band at 1/2” on the scale I doubt you have even 6,000 psi on the band.

I would return the saw to its original state (take out the shims) and get a blade that the saw can tension, the fact the narrow blade worked fine is an indication the blade/saw combo is your issue. Even a standard carbon 3/4” blade is asking to much for that saws tension abilities.

View pistolpcd's profile


4 posts in 964 days

#9 posted 07-24-2015 11:06 PM

thanks folks I’m tending to side with the common thread that the blade is too wide for the machine…its a 3/4” blade on a saw with a wheel thats only 1inch wide…so theres no way to put the gullets on the crown without it hangfing over the edge of the wheel and despite one members comment on it makes no difference where the bottom tracks…half off the wheel is not acceptable…..thanks for everyones opinion…I will acquire a smaller blade 3/8 or 1/2” and try that….anyone who might be interested in a 3/4” Laguna blade let me know (never been used)


View DaleM's profile


952 posts in 2808 days

#10 posted 07-25-2015 02:39 AM

Is the bottom wheel cocked at a slight angle from front to back? That would cause it to track one way when reversed and another way when forward.

-- Dale Manning, Carthage, NY

View pistolpcd's profile


4 posts in 964 days

#11 posted 07-25-2015 08:23 AM

Dale- no the botom wheel is not cocked…I checked coplaniarity of both wheels and then cocked the top wheel to try and get it to track…thanks

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