Cutting notches w/o bandsaw

how about a hand saw or even a hack saw and a chisel.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

A fine tooth handsaw would make quick work on that task. Doesn’t have to be anything fancy to start with, a $20 one from Home Depot with the hardened teeth will work just fine.

-- Thuan

Looks like a reason to buy a tool. That’s the best kind of project.

-- Father of two sons. Both Eagle Scouts.

Actually, I did think of a handsaw…I’m just petrified of a crooked cut. I suppose a crooked cut is easily fixed with sandpaper so long as I’m on the waste side of the line with my “crooked-ness”. Thanks.

All you need is a little practice in cutting a straight line before you dive into cutting on your project.
For example, take a 3/4” thick board and draw lines on the side and carry that line onto one face side of the board, go down about 2”. Make about 10-15 of these lines space them about 1/2” apart. Then clamp the board to your workbench and start sawing a straight line. After the first one or two lines you will be able to get an idea of how you are doing, whether or not you need to adjust your stance, angle of attack, etc…
Once you get the hand of cutting a straight line, then move on to your project.
Good luck.

-- "You get what you inspect, not what you expect"

A crooked cut has more to do with an improperly set saw teeth or a dull saw than it has to do with the operator when you are talking about cutting notches. To build up your confidence, buy a relatively inexpensive hand saw with the impulse hardened fine teeth blade. Then practice on some scraps of wood that you had drawn a series of practice layout lines on. You’ll find out how easy it is to use a hand saw. From there, you can expand to the many different types of saws that fits your style and needs.

-- Thuan

I’m building 4 endtables with this same type shelf below. I cut the notches with the table saw. Piece of cake!

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

3fingerpat & Thuan…I think you’re both right. I just need to practice, practice, practice. Thanks for your tips.

When you go for your cut, put a hardwood scrap on bothe the top and bottom of the line you are going to cut and they will help keep you on the straight and narrow…

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

Get a good Japanese pull-saw. I got one with rip teeth on one side and crosscut teeth on the other, and it’s the first saw where I can really follow a straight line, and pick and choose which side of that line I want the edge of my saw to get.

My other choice would be a sled to hold the shelf upright and square to the fence on a router table.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

Do you have a router? you could cut it rough with the jigsaw. Then make a square jig to use the router with a pattern bit, to square up most of the edge. Then take a chisel to square up the corner.

My suggestion was going to be jig saw, with a guide. Basically anything straight that you can use as a fence. With a good quality blade, you would be amazed how well a jig saw can cut, even a cheap POS like my Skil jig saw. So the ingredients are…

#1. Jig Saw. I am going to assume a Cheap Skil, Ryobi, B&D, Craftsman type with a U shank. #2. GOOD blades. I have a box of B&D blades, and a box of Bosch blades. The Bosch are AMAZING, the B&D will NOT track straight to save my life! #3. Guide system / fence of sorts. I have used a 24” and a 48” level that has a good straight edge to it, clamped it down, and used it as a fence. It works GREAT!

This works well for pieces too unwieldy to go on a band saw as well…

-- Trying to follow the example of the master.

Yes, I do have a router and I’ve thought about that option. The jig saw might work, I’ve got a good Hitachi with bosch blades but I still like the handsaw option I think. I may look for one of those rip/x-cut pull saws…I’m sure I’ll have future uses for something like that.

the others’ comments should get you on track. i will also add that this is a perfect opportunity to learn about the use of hand tools to complement power tools. a chisel will do a really great job of paring a sloppy cut to exactly where it needs to be.

...way faster and cleaner than sandpaper.

I agree with the table saw I do mine that way take your time

-- lcurrent ( It's not a mistake till you run out of wood )

Hand saw to cut on the waste side of the line then sharpen up some bench chisels (you should think about these as a purchase anyway and sharpening is a good gateway skill) to clean up. To help keep things square, you can clamp on a guide block, just any piece of wood with two square faces, one down to the work piece an the other will become a guide for the back of your chisel. Go slow and take small shaving cuts. And consider shaving down only about 1/2 to 2/3 from one side, then flip over and finish the cut from the other side.

Sharpening is a good skill to learn and now you have an “excuse” to buy a few chisels and learn to sharpen. Paring with a chisel will get you a long way toward being able to fine tune other joints like dovetails and mortis and tennon.

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

I’m liking all these reasons to buy tools…my wallet doesn’t…but I do! I’ve learned a lot from you guys. It’s great!

AaronK, I’m learning that although I prefer power tools, there is definitely a need for hand tools…this is a good example. Another example is that I believe I’m going to need a #4 or #5 Jack plane for flattening my glue lines on table tops and trimming drawers, etc.

rwyoung, combined with the handsaw I think that is a great idea.

For the guys who used the tablesaw…how do you get a square corner from a curved blade?

Thanks again everyone.

You would stand the pc upright to run through the table saw, however you will have to be careful about chipping on the back side.
I’ve cut many with the table saw, but the Japanese pull saw would work great also.

Forget all this nonsense about using power tools. Norm’s disease is easily overcome. Use a handsaw and be done with it. If you can’t cut a small notch without the aid of power you should rethink your thoughts of being a woodworker.

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

Not knowing what your budget is but a 4 piece set of Irwin/Marples blue handle chisels is not expensive. While they aren’t the greatest in the world, they are pretty good and will get you a long way. Think of them as your learner’s set. If you do happen to somehow ruin one, no big deal, not like ruining a $200 chisel. :)

And for sharpening, the cheap way to start is sandpaper on glass. BUT I will say that in the long run, it is likely more expensive than water stones or oil stones. You can get a very nice 1000/4000 combo stone from Woodcraft (Ice Bear brand I think) for around $35. That combined with some 220 and 320 for the rough work and the cheapest 12” ceramic tile you can get at the BORG, you will go a very long way in learning to sharpen.

Another way to cut a square corner with a round blade is to not cut all the way through. This is a little dangerous but if you are careful and pay attention it will work. Step one is to raise the blade as high as it will go (the is the dangerous part, you now have lots of exposed blade above your work piece). Now make some marks on your fence that line up with the leading edge of the blade or maybe 1/16” behind it. Now when you slide your workpiece along, and I’m assuming the fence is your reference edge, mark the table if you are using the miter bar, STOP feeding when the back edge of your notch reaches your mark. Hold still on the work piece (again, this is sort of the dangerous part because you could have some wood at or near the back of the blade where it might catch). Turn off the saw and wait for it to stop. Now pull back your work piece and finish up the cut with a hand saw. A jig saw or even just the blade from a hack saw would probably work since you will have just a little web of material to cut away.

This takes a lot of words to describe, but if you do a dry run I think you will understand.

Just remember to be careful because you have a lot of blade exposed and you are stopping part way through a cut. You have been warned!

-- Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

“If you can’t cut a small notch without the aid of power you should rethink your thoughts of being a woodworker.”

well, lets give him a break here. when i first started i didnt know any better and thought you could do it all with power tools – and im not even a new yankee workshop watcher! it’s just the impression i had.

rbterhune: the point is valid though – this is something easily done with hand tools in less time than it takes to talk about it, so it’s worth learning the skills! it will make things so much more enjoyable for you.

I think the impression that I’m a little ‘slow’ seems to have crept into Julian’s thoughts.

I should say a couple of things here…1st, I never said I had to do it entirely with power tools. 2nd, I want to learn FINE woodworking, which means every cut made with a hand tool needs to be spot on. It takes practice to cut a straight line (and square with a second side) with a hand saw. 3rd, there is no issue, in my book, at looking for all the ways to do something…one person’s way may not be the best way for all persons.

Thank you all.

I think the impression that I’m a little ‘slow’ seems to have crept into Julian’s thoughts.

I should say a couple of things here…1st, I never said I had to do it entirely with power tools. 2nd, I want to learn FINE woodworking, which means every cut made with a hand tool needs to be spot on. It takes practice to cut a straight line (and square with a second side) with a hand saw. 3rd, there is no issue, in my book, at looking for all the ways to do something…one person’s way may not be the best way for all persons.

Thank you all.