How would you square this leg?

On an old New Yankee Workshop episode, I saw Norm use his oscillating Spindle Sander to thin some stock. He clamped a fence a set distance from the spinning drum and then fed the stock between the fence and the drum- against the rotation so it wouldn’t be pulled through. Maybe you could try something like that to true up the edges of your laminations.

I had a similar situation with an edge on a curved shelf I did for my office.

In my case i had the edge already glued to the shelf, but you could easily clamp the board to a surface, then…

Take the baseplate of the router off. Cut a piece of plywood that’s about a foot and a half long, and screw the router to one end of that. Screw enough spacer to the other foot of that board to hold the router up above your edge piece. This way the router is on a part of its baseplate that overhangs, so you can have the router bit a fixed distance above the flat surface you’re moving the router on.

Put a straight bit in the router, and use that assembly to have your spacer run along the surface you’ve got the leg clamped to so the router takes off that wavy edge. Flip the leg, adjust the router just a little bit down, do it again.

If this isn’t clear, holler and I’ll either do some drawings or put my setup back together and take some pictures. Alternate router bases are awesome!

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

If you have a jointer…you could clean up the sides…then run it thru the table saw for final dimension.

Bob

Lew – Good idea. I was thought about something similar but couldn’t decide how to actually implement it

Dan – it took me a minute to realize what you were trying to say, but I think I got it now (similar concept to the router sleds for surfacing a large slab, just a different setup on a smaller scale, right?). Sounds like an excellent “plan B” if the drum sander doesn’t work out so well

Or maybe I’ll just pick up a belt sander and do it that way

-- Steve -- University Heights, Ohio