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Walnut sapwood

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Forum topic by wflather posted 07-19-2015 05:20 PM 900 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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wflather

20 posts in 513 days


07-19-2015 05:20 PM

Topic tags/keywords: black walnut sapwood stain dye

I recently finished a plank bottom chair, using black walnut for the seat. The seat had some sapwood in it that I wanted to stain dark to more closely match the heartwood. I used Minwax black walnut stain but was rather disappointed with the results.
Before starting the next chair I am hoping for any suggestions for better ways to match the sapwood to the heartwood.
Anyone out there have experience with this?


6 replies so far

View mahdee's profile

mahdee

3555 posts in 1235 days


#1 posted 07-19-2015 05:35 PM

Your best bet is to ask Charles Neil.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1776 days


#2 posted 07-19-2015 06:15 PM

While you’re waiting for Charles Niel

http://www.halfinchshy.com/2010/07/equalizing-walnut-sapwood-and-heartwood.html

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

4169 posts in 3210 days


#3 posted 07-21-2015 06:59 PM

Ditto to alaskaguy….

Use a dye to equalize the color, then stain to get the effect you want.

I used waterbased powders made by JE Moser from woodworkers supply to do this.
http://woodworker.com/water-soluble-lt-gold-oak-aniline-dye-mssu-843-924.asp?search=dye&searchmode=2
When I am playing with finishes, and tinting, I use transtint liquid dye, and count droplets per ounce to get the right tone.

LOTS of choices for powder dye…. Lockwood is also good, used in a class, but on projects, I only used JE Moser.
Used for Walnut table
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/11726

-- 'Political correctness is fascism pretending to be manners' ~George Carlin

View wflather's profile

wflather

20 posts in 513 days


#4 posted 07-21-2015 07:45 PM

Thanks for the feedback, I’ve used Transtint dyes on maple, love it. I found other suggestions pointing towards using SolarLux dyes diluted with the Solarlux reducer. Claims were that the color is less likely to wash out over time using this product. Then seal it with shellac and use oil based stain and poly to finish up.
http://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/wood-conversations/3-great-ways-to-hide-sapwood-in-walnut/

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DrDirt

4169 posts in 3210 days


#5 posted 07-21-2015 08:45 PM



Thanks for the feedback, I ve used Transtint dyes on maple, love it. I found other suggestions pointing towards using SolarLux dyes diluted with the Solarlux reducer. Claims were that the color is less likely to wash out over time using this product. Then seal it with shellac and use oil based stain and poly to finish up.
http://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/wood-conversations/3-great-ways-to-hide-sapwood-in-walnut/

- wflather


Indeed the nice thing about the Solarlux is that it is ‘NGR’ Non-grain raising… whereas the waterbased dye will raise the grain. But I never had much issue with it. I would dye, let dry overnight, block sand with 320, then apply oil base stain, and finish.

-- 'Political correctness is fascism pretending to be manners' ~George Carlin

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wflather

20 posts in 513 days


#6 posted 07-21-2015 09:05 PM

Oh good, a new acronym to drop: NGR. Thanks, I actually hadn’t realized it was NGR. I am thinking that for popping curly grain raising the grain and sanding is part of the process you need to do get the best pop. For equalizing walnut sapwood/heartwood that shouldn’t be an issue.

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