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Forum topic by Nomad81 posted 07-18-2015 05:11 PM 825 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Nomad81

26 posts in 961 days


07-18-2015 05:11 PM

Im always on craigslist and came across this lathe for $50 delivered! Of course I couldn’t pass that up. The main problem so far is the motor, it doesn’t work. It has power going to it, so its not the switch, but no life. I’m pretty inexperienced/wary of electricity so any ideas would be great. Anyone know where I can find out a manufacturing date? Serial FF-7026? Thanks!
https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/nrp10dh.jpg!


16 replies so far

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MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#1 posted 07-18-2015 05:14 PM

Anyone know where I can find out a manufacturing date? Serial FF-7026? Thanks!

Built in 1972 according to the serial number listing at the VM site.
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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TheDane

4997 posts in 3129 days


#2 posted 07-18-2015 07:33 PM

If the motor isn’t seized up (shaft turns freely?), you could have a bad capacitor or bad centrifugal switch … that’s pretty common on older induction motors. If you have a local motor repair shop they should be able to fix you right up.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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Nomad81

26 posts in 961 days


#3 posted 07-18-2015 08:10 PM

It spins fine, just seems like there is no juice going into the motor itsself. I have a little light up pen I keep handy to keep myself from getting electrocuted. I bI passed the switch to see if that was bad, but no luck. I’ll try to find a local shop. Any idea of the cost range for something like this?

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Wildwood

1886 posts in 1601 days


#4 posted 07-18-2015 10:43 PM

Have no idea on what cost to fix, but might be worth it over buying a new motor.

Think can find a 1/3 or ½ HP motor for less than $100, and maybe rebuilt for less.

-- Bill

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Woodmaster1

738 posts in 2053 days


#5 posted 07-18-2015 11:16 PM

I bought that lathe for 65.00 at an auction and it is a good lathe.

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Nomad81

26 posts in 961 days


#6 posted 07-18-2015 11:59 PM

I’ve got a midi shopfox I usually play on but wanted somthing that would be heavier and more balanced than a bench top. I figured for $50 I could either part it out on ebay and the larger shopfox for 500 or put a little money into the delta and use that.

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MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#7 posted 07-19-2015 12:08 AM

Was the motor opened up like that when you bought it or did you pull the end bell off? Did you test continuity across the Klixon? Could be a cheap and easy fix.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Nomad81

26 posts in 961 days


#8 posted 07-19-2015 12:27 AM

Brad, I pulled the back off to see it there was anything obvious. When I would plug it in there was nothing happening so I was guessing that no power was getting through to the motor. If there had been a puff of that magic smoke, heat, or even current going through the coils I’d have felt a little less optimistic about the motor. How do I test the Klaxon? What and where would that be?

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 952 days


#9 posted 07-19-2015 12:49 AM

thermal OL switch?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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Nomad81

26 posts in 961 days


#10 posted 07-19-2015 01:53 AM



thermal OL switch?

- TheFridge

Nope, that was the first thing I tried.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#11 posted 07-19-2015 02:29 AM

How did you test it? Just pushing the ‘reset’ button won’t work if it’s fried… there is a heating element inside of it that effects a thermal strip, which when heated sufficiently, bends and breaks the contacts. If the contacts are bad/dirty or the the heating element is bad, you can push that thing all day and it won’t do anything. I’ve run across several where they were wired wrong and the heating elements are fried. Here is the inside of one such example:

Note: there are usually three terminals on the back of the switch… only two are normally used. In the picture above, voltage comes in on the bottom left terminal, runs through the heating element to the bottom right terminal, and then the a bi-metal strip (not shown) spans to the upper terminal and out. You can see where the heating element in the one above is broken, just above where it comes in on the bottom left terminal.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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Nomad81

26 posts in 961 days


#12 posted 07-19-2015 02:30 PM

Brad, Here’s the switch from the back. The nut seems to be corroded on and when turned it starts backing the nut and bolt out together. When pressing the button there is no audible or felt click either. Should I just replace the switch for good measure? Where Would I Find One That fits? OEM looks to be discontinued.
Thanks

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MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#13 posted 07-19-2015 03:00 PM

Before you go about trying to replace it, you need to test it to see if it’s actually bad… which is why I asked if you checked it for continuity. Just eliminating one thing at a time that might be causing your problem.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: Don’t try to open it up.. that will most likely result in breaking it… the one I showed was opened up just to show the internals and was already toast.

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

4997 posts in 3129 days


#14 posted 07-19-2015 03:58 PM

Brad is right … opening it will destroy it. Check it with an ohmmeter or continuity tester.

If it is open, you’ve found the problem … if the switch is closed, move on to the centrifugal switch or capacitor.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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Nomad81

26 posts in 961 days


#15 posted 07-21-2015 04:40 PM

Just tested the theal switch with my cheap HF multi-meter. No current going through the switch. How do I replace it?

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